garyshipwright

John please don't feel Intimidated, we all started out very much like your self, and probably felt the same when I would ask those very same question on some ones build that to me had been doing this for a very long time. Others here have already answered some of your points but if you have any question hope over to my log and will be happy to help any way I can, not only your self but other's. Gary

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Alan you will know when its finished when you ran a plank across it and your fingers feel  nothing but a level  area from bow to stern. This and when  your happy with it. It looks like your have a lot of fun but she does look good from my screen. Another thing you could do is cut some small battans and planks and tie them to the hull at different  height and  this will help you figure out if its faired. Of course you already knew this about the above items. Gary

Alan you will know when its finished when you ran a plank across it and your fingers feel  nothing but a level  area from bow to stern. This and when  your happy with it. It looks like your have a lot of fun but she does look good from my screen. Another thing you could do is cut some small battans and planks and tie them to the hull at different  height and  this will help you figure out if its faired. Of course you already knew this about the above items. Gary

First Band of Planking
 
It took two weeks, I’ve completed the first band of 6 planks on one side (and two on the other) for the main hull planking.
 

 
Chuck providing us the tick strips is such a great gift. While having lined the much smaller Cheerful using a planking fan was a good learning exercise, without the tick strips provided for Winchelsea it would have taken me forever to do. As it was it was a full days work marking, making sure I had it right, then adding red ticks for my plank shift pattern and then blue marks to signify the bands. The chart tape helped me check the line. I made a few adjustments after this and will note the tape no longer stuck at the bow, so it looks ajar because it is.
 

 
I started by doing two rows on each side, I wanted to be sure I was past the drop plank without the challenges I had with Cheerful. This time it went so much better. From here on I am alternating sides after completing a band.
 

 
I’ve shown my plank bending station before (a raised board, clamps, travel iron and the recent addition of a craft hot air tool), here’s basically all the tools I need for planking. The dispenser for my Smith Industries medium CA, an Excel #11 blade along with a Swann-Morton #11 scalpel blade (for no rhyme or reason I’ll cut planks with either or both), the home-made sanding blocks I use to soften the inside edge of each plank where it meets the adjoining plank, pencil for marking and metal ruler for cutting. Missing is the the #2 wood pencil I use to “tar” one edge of each plank. I've recently added a new tool, double sided tape. I can hold the plank down for longer cuts required for Winchelsea without concern of it slipping beneath the metal rule as I cut.
 
I use this spatula to apply the glue to the back side of the plank over each bulkhead. Basically I lightly “butter” the back side as I go, gluing either one, two, but never more than three bulkheads at a time depending on the place in the run. This allows me to keep the plank close, limit to the small amount of glue needed, and firmly hold the plank both to the bulkhead and up tight up against its neighbor a little at a time. My forearms are generally sore from the resulting isometric exercise at the end of the day.
 

 
It’s a slow process to attach each plank this way, but it works for me and I’m sure it’s much faster than not using CA. I don’t start that process until I’ve tapered the plank per the tick marks and shaped it at the bending station strictly with heat, no water needed. As has been said, each plank is its own project. It can take me a few minutes or an hour or more to get the plank to the to lay where its supposed to be with no force added by me other than gluing it. Chuck’s method was a game changer for me, I really don’t know how I ever planked a ship before. It’s amazing how wood can be shaped with no more than a little heat. The bow is a challenge, the stern even more so. The planks there both curve (with the iron) and bend (using the hot air blower). One of many nice things is if I bend a plank too far I can just as easily unbend it. I do split or crack one now and again, but that’s my lack of patience, not the process.
 
PS: I'm sure I've said all this in other posts, it's just so fun to share.
 

 
The nice thing about wood is generally when you screw up you can fix it. The upside down Winnie slipped (not on its own, so I guess I should say I pushed it) over its foam stand and broke one of the transom posts. Fortunately it was a clean break and a little splint surgery had it back where it belonged. Note to self, don’t do that.
 

 
So with that and two weeks later the first band is complete. Here it is after a light sanding. I made need a bit of an adjustment at the bow, easily done with the next couple of planks
 

 

 

 

 
And here’s a few after more sanding and a light coat of WOP.  I don’t want to sand it too much until its’ finished, but I like to get the rough spots out of the way. The first coat of WOP is soaked in like a paper towel soaks up water. I like to give the wood a little protection (from me mostly) and of course the fun of seeing how it looks. Smart money would be not to sand it at all until it’s complete but where’s the fun in that.
 
One band complete. That sounds great until I remember there are six total bands.  Back to work, more lumber to saw first. As always thank you for the likes and comments.

Good morning.

Hello, everyone. Once this section is complete, the internal build will continue. The pulley rings are made of thin-walled copper tubes: 1.5 mm outside and 0.9 mm inside. However, it was found to be too large to be disposed of (part x of the figure) after being machined into a concave outer circle. It was finished with a diameter of 1.2 mm and an inner diameter of 0.7 mm copper tube.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

Boy do you have you work cut out for you with all those books. Only kidding and a big welcome to you and your misses. Didn't know what I was going to do about my book addiction. Once again  a big welcome.  Gary

Thank you very much 🙂, Alert 1777. Regards, Piotr

Thank you all for your opinions and likes, I am very happy that you like my work.
 
Buchty, or so-called suns, I made on adhesive tape, attached the rudder (4mm blocks) and finished the rope railing.
 
Greetings, Piotrek
 
 

pump
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

.
Chesstrees, fenders and the side ladders.

Bitao, that is one outstanding build you have going. She is looking great and ship shape. Look forward to your next update. Gary

And here is where I am at the moment. I have used pear to contrast with the Castello Boxwood and holly for the decking. I am not sure I'll use holly for the starboard exterior planking but will likely start with that and see how it is to work with for hull planking.
 
I am not clear on how to lay the forward ends of the planks onto the breast hook because obviously there is downward angle as it approaches the stem that will not allow one to achieve a flush situation. I am going to fashion some kind of angled piece that the planks can lie on. No big deal, it is likely just a typical thing a scratch builder has to deal with.
Cheers, Ian
 

This last tranche brings me just about to where I am today but I will post a separate one marking that situation.
Couple of things worth noting. First, not everything has gone smoothly by any means resulting in several re-dos especially with the clamps and breast hook locations. My failing was not appreciating how important it is to find a way to clamp these structures while the glue is setting. So I had to re-do many of them more than once. On the other hand I think I can be considered an expert de-gluer now. Whereas I used to rely heavily on water and alcohol I now exclusively use heat with my heat gun. 
 
A couple of pictures of the bow and stern that I think illustrates the amount of wood that must be faired. Call me crazy but I actually like that part of the build. What remains to be done is the final fairing at the top timber level and a few places where the external planking will meet the stem and stern.

A quick update folks. I have planked the fore platform and installed the scuttle. One notable departure from the plan is that I decided to chisel the breast hook corner flush so that the margin plank fitted over it. As is explained in the book, the reason it was left intact was for strength in this critical area of the hull. I actually tried the other way first but concluded that it didn't look similar enough to David Antscherl's version (see B&W photo - I hope it is ok to reproduce the occasional photo from the book David, please let me know if not) that protruded a bit higher. So the shipwright decided that this would allow more deck space. 😁
Ian

Greetings,
This update seems minor but it took quite a bit of time to complete the planking to the ceiling and then to shape and install the floor and futtock riders. Now I need to determine whether I can poly the floor planks and riders without compromising future gluing operations. Comments, criticisms welcome.
 
Ian