Hubac's Historian

Sometimes I worry that the forum moderators will close my build-log, if they don't see any signs of activity.  With that in mind - this post is something of a place marker, but it does illustrate progress on the drawing and highlights a few of the areas where designing to fit within the kit architecture presents specific challenges and/or limitations.
 
This is my work area in Gimp.  For this picture, I've hidden the white background tracing layer, which is my digitized hand-drawing.  With the main wales located, and the first three batteries in place, and properly located, she is beginning to look like a ship of war.  With the water line raised and the sheer line reduced, slightly, I think she sits pretty in the water:
 

The next three pics have the tracing layer visible, and I've scaled the zoom to accurately reflect the size of the actual kit.  This first shot of the bow shows the difficulty of designing the filligree between the knees of the head; rather than a parallel space between the knees, the space widens as you move outboard from the stem.  This means that the elements that make up the filligree can't simply be drawn once and copied, but must be drawn individually to fit.  The "X" shaped bits are supposed to frame shell carvings (which I may not model at this scale because the detail would be so tiny), are placed to correspond with the vertical ballusters that unify the three rows of headrails:
 

The arched, main deck ports also presented unique challenges that were not readily apparent until they were duplicated and placed along the upper bulwark.
 
First, my hand drawing did not accurately reflect the height and width of the actual ports; I drew them about a 1/16" too tall and almost a 1/16" too wide.  However, the space they can fit into, along the upper bulwark, is tallest aft and tapers to a more narrow space in the forecastle.  When you factor in that I also, initially, exaggerated the domed arch, and you add on the scrolled port enhancement, then the whole thing becomes really crowded, among the antler escutcheon carvings (not sure what else to call them):
 

I had to re-draw the port several times, duplicate it and place the row of ports until I was satisfied that the composition did not look too cluttered.  I have yet to correct the bow angel's extended hand, which no longer rests upon the smaller port, but I will do so soon.
 
Now, while the whole thing is very busy looking, when I consider the Compardel drawing upon which these port enhancements are based - then I think that my layout is actually better balanced and less cluttered looking.  This has to do with the fact that the Berain (black and white) and Compardel drawings of the stern quarters reflect a more exaggerated sheer of the wales, as it intersects with a less pronounced sheer of the actual gundecks;  the wales, the ornamentation and everything else outside the ship appear to rise rather sharply, while the gun ports, themselves, cut more steeply into the wales than is shown on the Heller kit.
 
I have tried unsuccessfully, just now, to post a sketch of The Monarch of 1668, which illustrates quite nicely this more pronounced sheer of the wales, on a ship of the First Marine.  You can see that the aft-most ports cut completely through the wale.  I will post this pic later, from my home computer, where it is easier to do so.
 

 
The reason for this variance has to do with the fact that the Heller kit, and the Tanneron model upon which it is based, reflect latter 17th C. Architecture of the Second marine - namely, the Foudroyant of 1693.  This fundamental difference between what I am trying to represent with the first Soleil Royal and the inherent inability to accurately represent the correct sheer of the wales on the plastic kit drives purists nuts; that, among other architectural inaccuracies.  I don't mean for that to be the case, but it is a compromise that I am willing to make because, in the end, I think it results in a less chaotic assemblage of details.  I am thinking about adding the leafy port enhancement that is shown beneath the port sills.  This would simply be affixed to the wale strake beneath the upper bulwarks, and omitted wherever the re-located main and fore channels make it impossible to include them.
 
As a related aside, a Belgian modeler named Cedric - whom I mentioned much earlier in this build log - is, in fact, closing off the Heller ports and re-locating them, and the wale locations so that he can more closely model La Reyne.  So, to be more clear - it is not impossible.  Cedric has already begun by cutting his hull along the same raised waterline I am proposing, sanding away the wales and using the kit port lids to seal off the openings.  This promises to be a very visually rewarding project, on his part, and one that I think will be very complementary to what is happening here.  I commend Cedric for his effort and attention to detail because what he is doing goes to a level that I am not willing to take my project.
 
Here is a link to his build-log for La Reyne, where he recently posted an update with pictures:
 
http://www.laroyale-modelisme.net/t19428p25-la-reine-vaisseau-de-premier-rang-au-1-90-eme?highlight=La+Reine+++Heller+Customise
 
One can immediately see, in Cedric's pictures, how cutting away the lower hull drastically improves the impression of the hull as a viable sailing ship.
 

You can begin to see a few of the details that will be added in: scribed scarf joints into the wales at appropriate intervals, and the through-bolting for the carriage tackles.  There are a number of other small details, like this, that can be sketched in now, with the gunports in place.
 
regarding the thin wale strakes that frame the railings of the sheer line - they will be mostly scraped away to make room for the upper bulwark frieze.  For now, I'm showing a short, moulded nub beneath the scalloped detail at each step in the sheer.  I'm not sure how I will ultimately resolve that, but for now, I like this.
 
You can see the 1/4" re-location, forward, of the aft most port on the lower deck, that makes a little extra room for the lower finishing of the quarter gallery.  I have the tracing layer for the quarter gallery on a separate layer that I am not showing right now.  Of course, aspects of the QG are not lining up so neatly with where I would like those transitions to land, so that will require digital manipulation, when I get to that part of the tracing.
 
High-lighted in red are two parallel lines that (in-board) indicate where the stock kit architecture ends and (out-board) shows the 3/8" extension piece that is necessary to close-in the lower stern walk.  The blue line beyond that indicates the round-up of the upper stern, which is probably exaggerated.  I will have a better sense for the depth of that when I begin making card templates to offer up to the stern, for patterning of the framing elements.
 
Finally, while I am cutting away the topmost step of the Heller sheer, I am adding back a lower-profile, continuous rail that extends forward to the rail cap.  The reason for doing this, primarily, is that it buys me back a little extra real estate (in-board) for the upper most "poop royal" deck that will have to be lowered, somewhat, and the camber increased, slightly, towards the middle of the deck, in order to work within the reduced sheer.  The depth of the deck, fore and aft, will also need to be shortened, somewhat.  I haven't drawn any of that, but I know it can be re-worked in a pleasing way.

Sometimes I worry that the forum moderators will close my build-log, if they don't see any signs of activity.  With that in mind - this post is something of a place marker, but it does illustrate progress on the drawing and highlights a few of the areas where designing to fit within the kit architecture presents specific challenges and/or limitations.
 
This is my work area in Gimp.  For this picture, I've hidden the white background tracing layer, which is my digitized hand-drawing.  With the main wales located, and the first three batteries in place, and properly located, she is beginning to look like a ship of war.  With the water line raised and the sheer line reduced, slightly, I think she sits pretty in the water:
 

The next three pics have the tracing layer visible, and I've scaled the zoom to accurately reflect the size of the actual kit.  This first shot of the bow shows the difficulty of designing the filligree between the knees of the head; rather than a parallel space between the knees, the space widens as you move outboard from the stem.  This means that the elements that make up the filligree can't simply be drawn once and copied, but must be drawn individually to fit.  The "X" shaped bits are supposed to frame shell carvings (which I may not model at this scale because the detail would be so tiny), are placed to correspond with the vertical ballusters that unify the three rows of headrails:
 

The arched, main deck ports also presented unique challenges that were not readily apparent until they were duplicated and placed along the upper bulwark.
 
First, my hand drawing did not accurately reflect the height and width of the actual ports; I drew them about a 1/16" too tall and almost a 1/16" too wide.  However, the space they can fit into, along the upper bulwark, is tallest aft and tapers to a more narrow space in the forecastle.  When you factor in that I also, initially, exaggerated the domed arch, and you add on the scrolled port enhancement, then the whole thing becomes really crowded, among the antler escutcheon carvings (not sure what else to call them):
 

I had to re-draw the port several times, duplicate it and place the row of ports until I was satisfied that the composition did not look too cluttered.  I have yet to correct the bow angel's extended hand, which no longer rests upon the smaller port, but I will do so soon.
 
Now, while the whole thing is very busy looking, when I consider the Compardel drawing upon which these port enhancements are based - then I think that my layout is actually better balanced and less cluttered looking.  This has to do with the fact that the Berain (black and white) and Compardel drawings of the stern quarters reflect a more exaggerated sheer of the wales, as it intersects with a less pronounced sheer of the actual gundecks;  the wales, the ornamentation and everything else outside the ship appear to rise rather sharply, while the gun ports, themselves, cut more steeply into the wales than is shown on the Heller kit.
 
I have tried unsuccessfully, just now, to post a sketch of The Monarch of 1668, which illustrates quite nicely this more pronounced sheer of the wales, on a ship of the First Marine.  You can see that the aft-most ports cut completely through the wale.  I will post this pic later, from my home computer, where it is easier to do so.
 

 
The reason for this variance has to do with the fact that the Heller kit, and the Tanneron model upon which it is based, reflect latter 17th C. Architecture of the Second marine - namely, the Foudroyant of 1693.  This fundamental difference between what I am trying to represent with the first Soleil Royal and the inherent inability to accurately represent the correct sheer of the wales on the plastic kit drives purists nuts; that, among other architectural inaccuracies.  I don't mean for that to be the case, but it is a compromise that I am willing to make because, in the end, I think it results in a less chaotic assemblage of details.  I am thinking about adding the leafy port enhancement that is shown beneath the port sills.  This would simply be affixed to the wale strake beneath the upper bulwarks, and omitted wherever the re-located main and fore channels make it impossible to include them.
 
As a related aside, a Belgian modeler named Cedric - whom I mentioned much earlier in this build log - is, in fact, closing off the Heller ports and re-locating them, and the wale locations so that he can more closely model La Reyne.  So, to be more clear - it is not impossible.  Cedric has already begun by cutting his hull along the same raised waterline I am proposing, sanding away the wales and using the kit port lids to seal off the openings.  This promises to be a very visually rewarding project, on his part, and one that I think will be very complementary to what is happening here.  I commend Cedric for his effort and attention to detail because what he is doing goes to a level that I am not willing to take my project.
 
Here is a link to his build-log for La Reyne, where he recently posted an update with pictures:
 
http://www.laroyale-modelisme.net/t19428p25-la-reine-vaisseau-de-premier-rang-au-1-90-eme?highlight=La+Reine+++Heller+Customise
 
One can immediately see, in Cedric's pictures, how cutting away the lower hull drastically improves the impression of the hull as a viable sailing ship.
 

You can begin to see a few of the details that will be added in: scribed scarf joints into the wales at appropriate intervals, and the through-bolting for the carriage tackles.  There are a number of other small details, like this, that can be sketched in now, with the gunports in place.
 
regarding the thin wale strakes that frame the railings of the sheer line - they will be mostly scraped away to make room for the upper bulwark frieze.  For now, I'm showing a short, moulded nub beneath the scalloped detail at each step in the sheer.  I'm not sure how I will ultimately resolve that, but for now, I like this.
 
You can see the 1/4" re-location, forward, of the aft most port on the lower deck, that makes a little extra room for the lower finishing of the quarter gallery.  I have the tracing layer for the quarter gallery on a separate layer that I am not showing right now.  Of course, aspects of the QG are not lining up so neatly with where I would like those transitions to land, so that will require digital manipulation, when I get to that part of the tracing.
 
High-lighted in red are two parallel lines that (in-board) indicate where the stock kit architecture ends and (out-board) shows the 3/8" extension piece that is necessary to close-in the lower stern walk.  The blue line beyond that indicates the round-up of the upper stern, which is probably exaggerated.  I will have a better sense for the depth of that when I begin making card templates to offer up to the stern, for patterning of the framing elements.
 
Finally, while I am cutting away the topmost step of the Heller sheer, I am adding back a lower-profile, continuous rail that extends forward to the rail cap.  The reason for doing this, primarily, is that it buys me back a little extra real estate (in-board) for the upper most "poop royal" deck that will have to be lowered, somewhat, and the camber increased, slightly, towards the middle of the deck, in order to work within the reduced sheer.  The depth of the deck, fore and aft, will also need to be shortened, somewhat.  I haven't drawn any of that, but I know it can be re-worked in a pleasing way.

Goodwin seems to suggest that the exterior planking was cut flush with the framing and that the port housing for a Capital ship like RW, changed a little, over the course of the 18th C.
 
 

I think it is quite remarkable that men went to sea in seas like this - and much worse - aboard wooden ships!  Fantastic picture, Ken.

I think it is quite remarkable that men went to sea in seas like this - and much worse - aboard wooden ships!  Fantastic picture, Ken.

Hello Everyone,      
 
Once again thanks for your likes, as you must know it does motivate you.
 
Here's a post that has nothing to do with modelling but may be of interest to some of you.
 
I live near the coast on a small picturesque peninsular, it is an area with a great maritime heritage. The Confederate ship Alabama and many more were built here. I often go walking along the coast and take with me my camera to shoot I hope, interesting maritime themed pictures of the Mersey estuary, the old docks and the varied shipping. I thought that if there is an interest  here I'll show the occasional picture in my log when my build doesn't have much progress to show. It's just a thought as many of you are scattered around the world and don't know what is current on English waters, anyway let me know your thoughts.
 
Here's my first, a shot of a cargo ship leaving Liverpool during a storm,  enjoy.
 
 
Ken

Wow - that's frustrating how un-reliable the kit plans are.  Good catch!

Hello Everyone,                Still more progress, Here's the next episode.  But first, Thanks for that reply, I'll copy that for my entry.
 
It was now time to tackle the gun ports. To mark them out I made the appropriate size plugs and using the guide holes drew in the port positions. Before committing to cutting I checked, re-checked then checked again.
 
For cutting I used a scalpel, I find them much sharper than a Xacto knife and give a perfect cut with ease. I didn't drill any pilot holes, I find that with a fresh blade it isn't necessary. Cutting the 1.5mm planks is just one pass with the grain and four passes across the grain and the plug comes away cleanly, no need for sanding to size. You can see in the pictures how cleanly the plugs came away intact. I used a fresh blade for each side.
 
At first I was going to leave the ports which coincided with the frames as closed ones but as things were going so well I decided to cut away the frames and have a continuous line of open ports. Rather than just hack away I made a small saw from a junior hacksaw blade, I had thinned the blade quite a bit so as it had no strength and would bend so I fixed it into the dowel handle so that it would cut on the pull stroke, this is also shown in the picture. The whole procedure went very well and I was surprised at how quickly it was done,  I had one clumsy moment when I put my thumb through some unsupported planks, thus needing a small repair.
 
Next will be lining them.
 
Ken
 
 


 
 
 

Wow - that's frustrating how un-reliable the kit plans are.  Good catch!

Goodwin seems to suggest that the exterior planking was cut flush with the framing and that the port housing for a Capital ship like RW, changed a little, over the course of the 18th C.
 
 

Goodwin seems to suggest that the exterior planking was cut flush with the framing and that the port housing for a Capital ship like RW, changed a little, over the course of the 18th C.
 
 

Good question.  I'm not sure what the answer is, but a good starting point might be H.M.S. Victory:
 
http://www.prdobson.com/album/hms-victory/photo/120/
 
A little later, I'll reference Goodwin's Englishman of War
 

Hi,    Another update.  I'm still in the first honeymoon period of the build, I'm still excited about building this kit and at the moment I don't seem to be able to tear myself away from it so it's moving on apace.
 
The sun came out today and I was able to go into my garden and get some serious sanding done. The high spot at the bow needed sanding back almost to the bow blocks but once done the hollow that I'd noticed disappeared and that area nicely flowed forming the correct shape of the hull. Nothing more of note just a lot of elbow grease saw the whole hull take on a very pleasing form, no high spots or hollows and I'm delighted to say not a drop of filler anywhere, success.
 
Nothing more to report so I'll just put up the pictures. Oh yes the metal strip worked a treat, I'd strongly recommend using it as it made finishing that area easy. The photos were taken outside this time. Here in the UK it's early spring and it's nice to see my lawn greening up and looking lush but I'll have to put the model down and get cutting it.
 
 
Ken

Building continues but I hit a major speed bump in the gun port layouts. I finished the main deck planking on the port side and decided to raise up the hull planking some more while I had that side of the ship facing me. Once up high enough I started to lay out the gun ports for that deck and quickly noted that something was off on the layout. So I quickly built one of the gun carriages and mounted a barrel on it then set it in place and uh oh! 
 
Obviously this was not going to work. After remeasuring everything on both the model and the drawings plus checking to make sure I didn't install something backwards, upside down or for another ship, I have come to the conclusion that the drawings simply do not match the precut locates for the gun ports on the false decks. So in order to keep the correct layout, I now had to shift all the ports up in addition to the horizontal rearrangement already done. Then start from the main deck and work down to get the spacing right between decks.

As you can see, it was not a minor adjustment. Truthfully this was something I was concerned with when I first started to build the cabins and modify the interiors. I noticed a lot of alignment issues then and wondered if they would extend out across the ship. Well they did. I'm glad I decided to go ahead and run the hull planking and start the port layouts as it is fairly easy to fix and adjust whatever needs to be in order to make this work.
 
So now back on track and moving forward again. Got the gun ports located properly and cut out on the main deck and upper gun deck. Still have to do the lower gun deck and once that is done I need to adjust several of the dummy blocks for the gun barrels as a lot of the locates with the kit do not work. That will have to wait for a while as I am stopping to go work on La Couronne. Here she is as of tonight. Starting to have the shape of a ship of the line now. 

Whichever way you go Ken, it is going to come out well because your work has been so clean, so far.  Do whatever you are comfortable with and have fun with it.

Whichever way you go Ken, it is going to come out well because your work has been so clean, so far.  Do whatever you are comfortable with and have fun with it.

I was wondering the same thing, Ken.  Your first planking is really nice and clean, but the finished model is immensely improved by following traditional practice.  One of the Forum moderators - Chuck - has an excellent series of two videos that describe the layout and spiling of continuous planking using simple math, tools and techniques.  Though I'm still a plastics guy, I will be coming back to this when I transition to wood.  The learning curve under his tuteledge is a speed-bump instead of a mountain.  I will post the thread link.

Looking good, so far, EJ!  I'm in for your build.

Hi Vince,  I've just run through your complete log again and I'm very impressed, you've put so much thought and effort into your build that it's almost taken on a life form of it's own. I want to do an ok build but yours is getting to be a tough act to follow, keep up the nice work.
 
Ken

I put the first plank on as suggested, about 3mm below the finished main deck surface, glued and nailed it. I made sure that everything was well glued to everything else, again I learned the hard way about sprung planks. The curves were quite friendly and it wasn't until the 7th plank that I found it necessary to start tapering. Using Pete's measurements I then marked the line of the upper gun ports 11.7mm above the deck. I knew that this was needed so I had already set my callipers to that height but using the lower deck as the reference as the upper gun deck would now be covered. Later I will take from the plan the centre points of the ports and drill  a 2mm hole where the lines meet. I noticed that when I was working the upper deck frames felt vulnerable so as a precaution I put a couple of stringers across the top. They won't save it from a fall but from being handle too roughly.
 
 
Ken   

I don't use a holder when I plank, I put an old pillow on my knee to take the shape of the hull and rest it on that. I like to be able to move the hull around so that I can attack it from all angles. I must tell you though that doing it this way with the Royal William is like wrestling with a baby whale.
 
I opened the wood bundle and saw that the quality was again excellent, as good as I could wish for and better than most of what I have had in the past and there appears to a generous amount of it too.

I think the staircase looks amazing, Ken.  Nice and clean and not overly fussy.   Great job!