Beckmann
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HMS FLY by cafmodel - 1/48
Beckmann replied to cafmodel's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hi, what Kind of wood do you use? And in wich scale do you work? Matthias -
Mike, that is an increadable example of patience an accuracy. Your Winni will be an extraordinary model, once completed! Matthias
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Wow, that is certainly a big help! You are an expert!
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Bravo, ein phantastisches Modell!!! Grüße, Matthias
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- caldercraft
- agamemnon
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What an excellent and beautiful design!! We are lucky to participate in this, thanks Chuck! Will you leave this black hole for the rudder like it is, or open it later?
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- winchelsea
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Thanks everybody for the comments and likes!! I learned two or three things while doing this: The bulkheads need to be in perfect shape. If not (and mine are not) it can happen, that you get a bump in the surface. And then, if you sand everything, you suddenly see the bulkhead. I had that at two points. I had to change those planks, wich is really not a nice thing to do. The other thing is, that the planks should not be too thin. Better more near to 2mm than 1,6 mm. That makes is all more safe and stable. And the better you bend the planks before glouing, the better they fit. Forcing it in position always makes problems. There is a saying about building houses in Germany: Make the first one for your enemy, the second one for your friend and the third one for yourself. That is probably, what I should do with this Winnie-project!😉 Matthias
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The starboard side is planked two belts. The upper two belts are the next thing to do.
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Today I finished the Port side planking. Alltogether it looks okay, but I know my corners. What do you think?
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Thank you everybody for the comments, - as I said, these tutorials make it easy to achieve a nice fit of the planks. I switched now to the other side of the hull. Christmas vacations are over now, things will proceed slower from now on.
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By the way, I did tear off the rear Planks below the Wales. If not, I would alway regret to not having done it. Now the Joints are like stairs in a regular pattern.
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These planking tutorials are really a help. Thank you Chuck. If you do it step by step, there is no problem to get the Planks in position without much forcing and clamping an so on.
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Okay I understand, but so far there is no duckboard piece on the model. Or do you mean the channels? They will be black I presume.
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Unfortunately, I have to rip of the 4 rear planks below the wales, because I die not consider that They go over 9 bulkheads.
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Hi Empathry, thank you for your kind comment. ebony is too unflexibel and difficult to bend. What do you mean with "Laufbohle"? Here is my first attempt with these difficult planks below the wales. It is actually my third attempt, I broke all the others. If I keep going like this, I will soon run out of planks. I have a question concerning the joints. They jump every second bulkhead from one row of planks to another. And after 4 rows, it goes back to the first bulkhead. Is that right? That produces a regular pattern of joints. And it means, that one plank goes over 8 bulkheads.
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Yesterday the carvings of Jack arrived. They are extraordinary. Here is the figurehead.
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Hi Chuck, I know, what you mean. In my case, it is now 7 or 8 weeks, that I started the planking. And there are definitely more than one planks, which I should not have glued in position, because with a little more effort, it could have been better. It is a matter of habit and willpower and Patience. At my work as civil engineer, things are never fast enough. You are actually always behind, trying to not loose connection. So shipmodeling is a bit like a therapy to slow down. The other thing is, that this model is so much fun. And I think it is a level, which is new for ordinary shipmodelbuilder like me. You just can‘t resist sitting down, doing the next plank. Today for example I spent all morning fairing inbord - and enjoyed it. I will take my time for the planking below the wales. Matthias
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Thank you Jim. Using mordant always has the potential to completely ruin, what you did so far. Once it is in the wood, you never get it out again. So I am glad, all went well. I wiped some varnish on the surrounding planks, that kept them clean. Matthias
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As usual, things didn't quite work as I thought. I had to do some sanding and following that, some more dying. I would not recommend doing this my way. You have to be extremely careful with the rest of the model. The advantage is, that the planking structure remains very visible. Painting it might cover the seams and joints, so you have one black belt without any visible planks. In the end it is a matter of taste. The best thing to do is propably using the black hornbeam, wich JpR62 mentioned above. This is the finished starboard side of the model. Matthias
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That is, what I did. The cedar is so absorbent, that the stain went almost through the entire strip. And You can still enjoy the flexibility of this wood.
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First I thought about using ebony, I have got a peace of ebony, but that stuff is like iron. Very heavy and I suppose impossible to saw and bend.
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The next thing to do are the black whales. I dyed the strips in advance, so I don't have to paint them. We will see, if that was a good idea or not. The disadvantage is, that you have to glue them very careful into position, because you can not sand the surface later. And no glue on top of the surface. And if you moisten the strips fot bending, you will dissolve the mordant. But I prefer the look.
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Hi everybody, I hope you enjoy some spare time at your christmas-vacation. I did some planking. This one was a really tricky one. Matthias
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Okay, if that is the colour, I am fine with it. I thought you changed into a lighter blue.
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- winchelsea
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Hello Chuck, I personally prefer the colours, you used above. Is it possible to get the freeze with this green-blue background? I am still thinking about the old masters gel stain. It would match better, using the darker Colours. Thanks Matthias
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- winchelsea
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