flying_dutchman2
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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2
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Patrick, Masts, yards, sails and rigging is my favorite part of building a model. Marcus -
Temporarily put in the jack boom and mizen mast. Leeboards are attached and held up by a piece of string until the final rigging can be done for them. Also painted the hull off white. White paint mixed with a drop of yellow ochre. Hulls were not pure white. Marcus
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She is starting to look really nice. Sleek. Marcus
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To the King of Itty Bitty scale: The sleek yacht is beautiful. Excellent workmanship. Her lines are very pleasing to the eye. Marcus
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Created all the small single and double blocks, throat halliard blocks, fiddler blocks, leeboard block, one heart, 5mm deadeyes, belaying pins (need to make more) the gaff jaws and for extra added entertainment 4 barrels, 2 large and 3 small buckets. All the deadeyes for purchase are flat in the middle on both sides but in reality they should be round. I have tried making them myself but it is not working. I am still figuring how I can do this. I have purchased deadeyes and if I can't make them myself I will use those (picky, picky) Thought of purchasing the buckets but because I was making the small blocks, why not make them myself. Drilled a hole in a dowel, cut them to height and glued a 1/32 thick piece of veneer as bottom to it, sanded and stained or painted them. The rigging of the mizen mast is going to be a challenge. The plans are different compared to the model in the book. So I will look at both and work towards something logically. The rest is the same as the yacht "Utrecht" and the Galjoot (which I have plans for as well). I will add some flags such as the Dutch flags in the colors of 1600's. Marcus
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# Richard, Sjors and druxey, thank you for the compliments Marcus
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Patrick, Thank you for the compliments. What I like so much about this ship is all the curves, curved stem, the heavy wales and the triangular helm port transom. Marcus
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Cog, What is the title of the book? Marcus
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Thanks for the likes. #cog. Besides the plans for this mill that you have, what other ones do you have? What is the difficulty level of them? You mentioned way back that you purchased from penterbak. Marcus
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Created the metal work for the deadeyes. Tried several ways of attaching the deadeyes to metal links and came up with a simple way of doing it. They are a bit crude looking. The picture in the book shows a simple method and I somewhat followed that as well. Main mast channels and deadeyes Mizen mast and deadeyes. Been making some more blocks, just a couple everytime. Will start on the masts and yards next. Marcus
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Finished the mill, except for the sails which I still need to dye dark brown. Once the weather is warm (several months from now) I will revisit this build with outside pictures. For now, here are some shots of the finished mill. Crooked brick work. Will be improved with me next mill. Shutters and window. Another window with shutters on the opposite side. Door and step. There is another door and steps on the opposite side. Four small windows. The imitated gray thatch has some yellow ochre painted on to give it some contrast. Wheel with rope. The flag is painted with acrylic. I think it will deteriorate after the first rain. Need to make something with linnen. The beard. Letters were carved out and painted red. It says "Anno 1992" "Stichting Molens". Not all the text fitted on the 'beard'. Did not have a template for smaller letters. Color coded vanes. It is not visible, except if you look closely. It is coded so I know which vane goes where on the copper tubing. Copper tubing without the vanes. My nosey cat. That completes the build. Thank you all for following, giving advice and uploading various beautiful pictures of the different mills the Netherlands has to offer Marcus
- 268 replies
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She is starting to look great. Nice sanding job. Marcus
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By holding the 4 chairs with your fingers, one can truly see how small and detailed everything is. Excellent craftsmanship Marcus
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Have been spending several weeks making different types of blocks. Very time consuming assembly work. Several hours everyday. After looking at prices of the different types of blocks I need for the Boyer, it made sense to me to make them myself and save some money. Compared to what is on the market, my blocks are not as nice looking...... Yet. But with time, they will become better looking. Once I start building a Fluit and a war yacht I may just cave and purchase the blocks as I need lots of them. Tried out different type of stock to see for myself what works. Walnut (easy, sands well, will use this for the Boyer), cherry (breaks easily), pear (sands well, no breakage), birch (splinters), and maple (too light in color). I created my own method from the combination of several articles I have on file. Stock is measured in 4, 5, 6, and 7mm width and thickness. Length of dowel is 30cm. With a slithing blade on the saw, 2 slits, 2mm apart, 1mm deep are cut the length of the dowel as well as the opposite side of the dowel. Here I will measure and mark with pencil the different sizes of the blocks. Ever block has a 5mm boundary area between it. Sheave openings are drilled. Now comes the tedious part of the exercise. Boundary cuts are made as we as removing the rest of the stock between the blocks. Top if the picture shows the isolated blocks. Close to the bottom of the picture is where I am sanding the edges to create an elliptical form. The bottom of the picture shows the blocks. The final part of the exercise is the filling in of the stropping grooves and giving the blocks a final sanding. Hope this made some sense. Marcus
- 209 replies
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Cog, tigerdvr, and CapnMac82, thank you all for the extensive explanations. This has been an education for me Marcus
- 140 replies
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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I am assuming that before the era of PE, it is paint? PE also gives you cleaner lines compared to paint? Does PE come in one color or are there any other colors? Can you use paint on PE? I will go to Toms metalworks site and read up on it. The above questions are for the pros and cons of PE versus paint. Lots of questions and thanks for answering. Marcus
- 140 replies
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- 4
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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Jan, As usual, I am late in following this. As a newbie in card, I think you are doing an excellent job in creating this ship. Learning lots of tips and tricks just in case I want to try my luck at doing a card model. Marcus
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Kortes, The Sperwer is coming along nicely. Everything of the pilot house (kajuit) is beautifully executed. At the scale you are building all the details come out really well. Marcus
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Have been following some of the plastic model builts in the background and I have several questions. -- Do all plastic kits have brass etching available to them and if not is it only the famous ships? -- Does the brass etching come in different scales, just like the ship models do? -- Jack mentioned towards the end of his build that he didn't use as much PE as he thought he would. Can he use the left over PE for other ships? I think that does it for now. Thanks for answering. Marcus
- 140 replies
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- 6
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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Sjors Pulling up a chair and will follow this with great interest. This model has been on my bucket list, like forever. Marcus
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To the King of Itty bitty scale, This is turning out to be an amazing built. All the colorful furniture is in place. Don't think you have forgotten anything. It is a sleek looking yacht. I bet that the real ship looks pretty amazing as well. Marcus
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I inherited a dremel Moto 700 lathe from the secretary of the North West Indiana Woodworkers club and with that item I've made grooves in various size dowels (birch, walnut and cherry) in about 2 hours. When filling a straight groove by hand this is the most difficult part of making a deadeye. With the lathe it is faster and straight. Got 19 dowels which will be about 450 deadeyes. Enough for a few ships. Drilling holes and cutting them off with the saw is easy. Marcus
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Created the windlass and the windlass pawl which will be positioned in the midline on the inboard stem. I added four sticks in a rack in front of the windlass. In real life these are used to turn the windlass. Created and installed the upper and lower brass pieces which are pinned to the upper stem to house the tie down for the main stay. Forged brass loop which has been attached to the stem and will be used to hold the gammoning ropes to support and fix the bowsprit in place. Marcus
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