flying_dutchman2
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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2
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Have been spending several weeks making different types of blocks. Very time consuming assembly work. Several hours everyday. After looking at prices of the different types of blocks I need for the Boyer, it made sense to me to make them myself and save some money. Compared to what is on the market, my blocks are not as nice looking...... Yet. But with time, they will become better looking. Once I start building a Fluit and a war yacht I may just cave and purchase the blocks as I need lots of them. Tried out different type of stock to see for myself what works. Walnut (easy, sands well, will use this for the Boyer), cherry (breaks easily), pear (sands well, no breakage), birch (splinters), and maple (too light in color). I created my own method from the combination of several articles I have on file. Stock is measured in 4, 5, 6, and 7mm width and thickness. Length of dowel is 30cm. With a slithing blade on the saw, 2 slits, 2mm apart, 1mm deep are cut the length of the dowel as well as the opposite side of the dowel. Here I will measure and mark with pencil the different sizes of the blocks. Ever block has a 5mm boundary area between it. Sheave openings are drilled. Now comes the tedious part of the exercise. Boundary cuts are made as we as removing the rest of the stock between the blocks. Top if the picture shows the isolated blocks. Close to the bottom of the picture is where I am sanding the edges to create an elliptical form. The bottom of the picture shows the blocks. The final part of the exercise is the filling in of the stropping grooves and giving the blocks a final sanding. Hope this made some sense. Marcus
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Cog, tigerdvr, and CapnMac82, thank you all for the extensive explanations. This has been an education for me Marcus
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I am assuming that before the era of PE, it is paint? PE also gives you cleaner lines compared to paint? Does PE come in one color or are there any other colors? Can you use paint on PE? I will go to Toms metalworks site and read up on it. The above questions are for the pros and cons of PE versus paint. Lots of questions and thanks for answering. Marcus
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Jan, As usual, I am late in following this. As a newbie in card, I think you are doing an excellent job in creating this ship. Learning lots of tips and tricks just in case I want to try my luck at doing a card model. Marcus
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Kortes, The Sperwer is coming along nicely. Everything of the pilot house (kajuit) is beautifully executed. At the scale you are building all the details come out really well. Marcus
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Have been following some of the plastic model builts in the background and I have several questions. -- Do all plastic kits have brass etching available to them and if not is it only the famous ships? -- Does the brass etching come in different scales, just like the ship models do? -- Jack mentioned towards the end of his build that he didn't use as much PE as he thought he would. Can he use the left over PE for other ships? I think that does it for now. Thanks for answering. Marcus
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Sjors Pulling up a chair and will follow this with great interest. This model has been on my bucket list, like forever. Marcus
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To the King of Itty bitty scale, This is turning out to be an amazing built. All the colorful furniture is in place. Don't think you have forgotten anything. It is a sleek looking yacht. I bet that the real ship looks pretty amazing as well. Marcus
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I inherited a dremel Moto 700 lathe from the secretary of the North West Indiana Woodworkers club and with that item I've made grooves in various size dowels (birch, walnut and cherry) in about 2 hours. When filling a straight groove by hand this is the most difficult part of making a deadeye. With the lathe it is faster and straight. Got 19 dowels which will be about 450 deadeyes. Enough for a few ships. Drilling holes and cutting them off with the saw is easy. Marcus
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Created the windlass and the windlass pawl which will be positioned in the midline on the inboard stem. I added four sticks in a rack in front of the windlass. In real life these are used to turn the windlass. Created and installed the upper and lower brass pieces which are pinned to the upper stem to house the tie down for the main stay. Forged brass loop which has been attached to the stem and will be used to hold the gammoning ropes to support and fix the bowsprit in place. Marcus
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Created more deadeyes. 1: Take a dowel and put it upright in a vise. Use a drill press and a dremel with a 0.061 bit and drill three holes. 2: Remove the dowel from the vise and carefully file a groove all around. 3: Use saw to cut the deadeye of the dowel. 4: Put the deadeye in the drum sander which consists of the following: plastic jar lined with sandpaper (gritt 120) with screw lid, quarter inch dowel which have 2 pieces of sand paper (gritt 120) glued to it I either roll the dowel by hand or attach drill to it running the drill at 3 second bursts. Marcus
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Thank you for the compliment. Yes, she is coming alone nicely. The masts, sails and rigging has some similarities as the yacht, Utrecht. The Boyer has an added mizen mast and a spritsail yard and sail. Merry Christmas as well. Marcus
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wefalck : Which ones? Besides het Friese Scheepvaart museum which has many plans, what other museums have plans for downloading? Marcus
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Worked on the channels and created some deadeyes from both cherry and birch. Pictures will follow from the crude looking deadeyes. Marcus
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Sort of fixed the transfer of pics to the forum by setting the camera to manual and reducing the pixel size of the pictures. The deck items are pretty much completed. The stem with bollards and bits. Hatches have been added as well. The main hatch and part of the cabin. Bollards, part of the cabin and at the pointy bow area the mizen mast holder. The vertical piece of wood is for the sheet. There will be two of them. Here is the second vertical bar that will be for the other sheet. Rudder post and rudder. Tiller under the mizen mast holder. Is there another word for 'mizen mast holder'? What about Dutch? Marcus
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Nice pictures of the Boeier, Wefalck! Het Friese Scheepvaart museum has a lot of plans online, free for the downloading. Then on archive.com their are 3 books by Emile van Konijnenburg, Shipbuilding from its beginning volume 1, 2, & 3. The first 2 are descriptions of ships in Dutch and vol 3 is all plans and color drawings of Dutch ships. Marcus
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Still having problems uploading pics from my phone. After much research there seems to be a glitch in the actual transfer from my android phone to the forum. It comes and goes for no reason. (don't you just love technology). Marcus
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The deck is beautifully done and the pins in the deck as well. I like how you made the curved baton for the bow. I am assuming that it was a difficult job. I love all the curves from Dutch ships. It's what makes them unique. Marcus
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Created some of the deck items from walnut. Installed the bits and bollards that line the sides of the boat. The mizen mast holder is from walnut and I had to file the railing a bit so that the piece would sit straight as well as the mast that goes into the holder. Finished the pinntels and will drill tinny holes to fit the brass nails. Having trouble uploading pictures. Marcus
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This boat has clean lines and you did an excellent job of planking her. Both the bluff bow and stern are an exercise on its own. I know this from building yachts and presently building a Boyer. You are correct, a sperwer is a type of hawk. Did you get the plans from het Friese Scheepvaart museum online or if not where? Marcus
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