Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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AL, welcome to MSW. Very glad to have you aboard.
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Ash dumped over the side dry in any breeze would be everywhere and in every mechanism. One would think that the most manageable state of ash would be ash mud. A ton of coal equals 200 pounds (10%) of ash. Burning a ton of coal an hour would equal 4,800 pounds of ash in a 24 hour period. To make ash slurry requires 50% water and 50% ash, ash mud is 25% water and 75% ash. Water weight required to make ash mud in a 24 hour period would be 1,200 pounds plus 4,800 ponds of ash equals a total waist weight of 6,000 pounds. To manually remove 6,000 pounds in 50 pound loads would require 120 trips in 24 hours or 5 trips per hour equals 12 minutes per trip. I think that's manually manageable but it's a constant grind. -
Brian, that's directly over a gun port. Even if the gun ports had been closed during dumping, when they were reopened would ash dust have been an issue?
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Mark, I thought JH was talking about the furnace funnels, I missed the key word "ventilation". My apologies Johnhoward.
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Rick, welcome to MSW. I saw you sneaking around earlier, I thought you might be just another stray. Glad to have you aboard.
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Brian, thank you for the heads up on the slicer. I watched the vid, looks like a good product. Its kinda spendy for a max cutting thickness of 1/4 x 3/8. I'm looking forward to reading your review when you've had a chance to use it. In the vid he's cutting basswood, I'm eager to know how it works cutting oak.
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Johnhoward, I don't think this would have been practical IMHO. At a ton an hour funnel removal would have been a constant. Funnels were heavy bolted together iron lumps with preventer chains anchoring them. The only thing tall enough to lift from would have been the other funnel. A crane to remove the funnels would have shown up on the photographs.
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Lynn, also. a Forstner bit is a much better drill than the normal metal drills. There's much less tear out with a Forstner but they are more expensive. You should be able to buy one the size of your mast diameter or if you can afford it spring for a set and be done with it. Any time one of us has suggested a tool to help you along, you've been Jonny on the spot to buy it. That's why I disagree with your statement "I consider myself a casual modeler". The casual modeler would use an inadequate tool to try and get the job done. You're far more than a casual builder. If you were casual about this hobby I wouldn't be following you in your journey.
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Lynn, I eyeballed it when drilling the holes for the mast. Get the cut off end of a 2x4 and practice drilling the mast hole using your t-bevel and your eye. Practice using a drill the same diameter as a bamboo skewer and going about a half inch deep. You can make a jig/templet but without a drill press and a way to solidly bed the hull, it's going to be an eyeball process. When you finally feel comfortable enough to drill the hull, if you mess up, you can plug the hole and do it again. I don't think you need to drill more than 3/4 of an inch deep if that. When you finally drill the hole in the hull you want the hole to be slightly larger than the mast where you'll be able to fine tune the angle. Eric, please jump in here and advise Lynn as I'm probably not giving her the best advise.
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Congratulations.
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Wow, Glen, that looks sharp! I'm thinking you should have made two carriages, one for the Independence and one for a cannon model. The carriage is beautiful work.
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Lynn, the stanchions look good, nice even spacing. What's next? You feeling any better?
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Lynn, most of us are right there with you. The goalpost never get closer, experience only increases our desire to reach the next level.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
Keith Black replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, this is excellent news!- 993 replies
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Lynn, a lot of modeling is illusion, tricking the viewers mind into seeing something that's not really there. The viewers mind expects to see something, modelers give the viewers mind a gentle nudge and voila, the thing is there as plain as day. Your pintles and gudgeons while not perfect, at viewing distance they'll be noted by the casual viewer's eye/mind and the viewer will move on to make other observations none the wiser. I do hope and pray you heal soon.
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Very nice.
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Dave, I become more impressed with the deck layout with every new photo you post.
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Michele, welcome to MSW. Hopefully you'll start a build log where we can follow along. I look forward to seeing your work.
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No, Rob, lifts and braces only as there'll not be any canvas in the yards. I'm rigging the Tennessee per the first two H&H photos. Hatton and Hart were on board the Tennessee at least twice (maybe three) taking photographs of the Tennessee during her career. The above and below photos of the mizzen port side pin rail void of control lines. The above and below photos of the mizzen port side pin rail with control lines. Not having a pin rail plan, rigging the Tennessee without control lines makes life much easier. I could probably fake it but why?
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Nice work, Glen. I'm with Joe about seeing it finished.
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Valeriy, a joy to see more of your beautiful work but an even greater joy to hear from you. Every time I hear or watch the news I think about you and Kortes.
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Dave, I use a craft acrylic paint. The process I use is the same as yours up to painting. If the eyelets are to be used in a wide open space, I go ahead and glue the eyelet in place and then paint. I don't have to get too close to the wood because the eyelet has been blackened. Once the acrylic paint has dried I poly coat the eyelet. I use satin polyurethane to seal my work.
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Thank you to everyone for visiting and for the likes. Lynn, Glen, Pat, Mark, Tom, Brian, Dave, Gary, and Keith thank you for your kind support. Thank you, Tom. Actually it's our front porch, my workshop is upstairs. Because I take such lousy photos due to the bad lighting upstairs, I've started taking pics on the porch when possible. Dave, I've enjoyed being part of your journey. I'd be so pleased if you were able to find something useful in my build to help you in yours. MSW is a collective of sharing by like minded individuals. I'd still be stuck in first gear if not for the build logs from which I've gleaned so much. Gary, the running lines right next to the flag halyards of the same size is a poke in the eye. The kid came out in me. I just couldn't wait till I had the proper size line to finally see the 37 stars fly after seeing it in my mind for so many years. Each of you warms my heart for which I am eternally grateful.
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Dave, knots aren't that important as most of them are too small to see/tell if it's a bowline or a granny. If you do the ratlines in the traditional method then a clove hitch is essential. Your rigging plan should make it pretty clear as what line goes to what block. That's where books and build logs come in to play to fill in the blanks. Start searching how to strop blocks and start fiddling around in your spare time. I went with wire stropping for the blocks on the Tennessee. I found it to be so much easier.
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