Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Eberhard, great update. This model is so well done It doesn't require any imagination to make me believe that I'm looking at the real Wespe. -
An amazing little model, crisp, clean work at 1:275 scale. Sticking it in a bottle (light bulb in this case) is the wow factor. Congratulations.
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Having one of those myself today, Glen. I've got a tube of CA that no workie and has caused all sorts of problems. Have never had that happen before and it's the original blend, SG. Way to overcome the gotcha's, great recovery. She's really looking good!
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Keith, if you wanted to suggest both seating and being able to view the engine you could have a wide board frame inset with a piece of acetate.
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Beautifully done, Tom. Congratulations.
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Man, it's great to hear from you, Keith. Glad you're doing well and look forward to you being able to provide build updates. I'm sure you're tied up flying for the season, fly safe and don't be a stranger.
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Anja, welcome to MSW. You're doing great with what materials came with the "kit".
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Dave, you have to make a hook and then rig/tie the hook on the end of the block. As you may know I use wire to strop my blocks so for me it's relatively easy to do so. Glen doesn't use wire but the process is the same except you use line.
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I'm all over the board trying to figure out what the scale is for this model. If the 1/2 inch deadeye is representing a 12 inch deadeye the scale is 1:24. If it's representing a 14 inch deadeye the scale would be 1:28. At 1:24 scale, 5' 8 and 3/4 inches or 69 inches would equal 140 feet. If 69 inches is representing 99 feet then that scale would be approximately 1:17 and a 12 inch deadeye would equal .70588 inches to scale. If representing a 14 inch deadeye the scales size would be .8235 inches. For the 1/2 inch deadeye to work at 1:17 scale, it would be a 9 inch deadeye to actual size. 1:17 isn't unheard of but 1:18 is more common. To nail down the scale everything needs to get measured, binnacle, anchors, life ring, single blocks, everything. The scale is really only important in figuring out the size of the ship's wheel.
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Keith, Glen, and Ron, thank you for the comments and thank you to all for the likes and for following along. Here are a couple of photos, disregard the clutter as I'm knee deep in it. Box to get the channels to eye level. Lacing the deadeye lanyards on the third hand as there's no room to do it on model. Starboard. Finishing up the second one on port side.
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Keith, love the first photo bedlam and all. You've made tons of of very nice progress since post #372. You hear anything from the other Keith?
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So sorry your rudder broke, Dave, that's such a drag. All the 100% cotton thread I've every seen has been fuzzy. There are cotton/polyester blends that are less fuzzy but for the time spent why not go polyester and be done with it. Poly doesn't rot like cotton but some folks say polyester thread stretches. I have a model I rigged years ago with poly and I don't see any sag. Some museums are now using polyester line on renovations.
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Welcome back, traveler. I hope you get settled in nicely.
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Dave, the rigging looks great but how in the heck did you break the rudder? There's no rigging back there, did you have LN in a headlock? It seems most kit supplied cotton line stinks. On your next project you might consider getting line from Chuck or possibly laying up your own.
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Th cleats came out nice. I need to order some Pewter Black from Bluejacket and give it a try. Thanks for reviewing the product, Lynn.
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Floyd, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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