Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Dave, knots aren't that important as most of them are too small to see/tell if it's a bowline or a granny. If you do the ratlines in the traditional method then a clove hitch is essential. Your rigging plan should make it pretty clear as what line goes to what block. That's where books and build logs come in to play to fill in the blanks. Start searching how to strop blocks and start fiddling around in your spare time. I went with wire stropping for the blocks on the Tennessee. I found it to be so much easier.- 362 replies
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Dave, I didn't have a rigging plan for the Tennessee so I had to get a much broader rigging education than you'll find necessary. Since you have a rigging plan your rigging education will be mainly 'how to' strop blocks, being able to determine where different line thicknesses belong, different line colors and where they're used, and teaching your fingers how to work with small bits that want to escape or do everything but what you want them to do. You'll have to decide which block stropping method works best for you, either line or wire. Tools needed are good tweezers, needle threaders. and smooth faced pliers. Rigging is the dividing line, this is where models either get completed or languish in some closet unfinished. if you overcome the fear of the unknown and are hardheaded enough, you'll make out fine. Don't hesitate to ask questions.
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Eric, I hate to hear you're laid up. I hope and pray you heal quickly.
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Tom, this is great to see, you've managed to get over that hurdle! Do you see things being pretty normal going forward?
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Lyle, I tried Jax without success but then I don't have great success with Casey. My best success is just to paint them.
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Dave, maybe the eye pins are coated? Try soaking then in Acetone for a bit and then try the Casey. If that does't work, you'll have to paint them which is pretty much what I do as the final step. Rigging? Start right this minute reading every book and build log regarding rigging you can get your eyes on. I'm old and thick headed but, it took me about nine months before the lights started to come on. I recommend Petersson's book 'Rigging of Period Ship Models'. At least you have a rigging plan! The hull is really looking spiffy.
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Lynn, the deck looks much better. Sorry you're in pain. Hopefully you get healed up quickly!
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Thank you to everyone for kind comments and to everyone for the likes. I finally got some running lines run. The lines aren't tight as the mast is still off ship and the lines need to be connected to the deck. After viewing the photos I see a couple on lines I need to reroute. I think the two flag lines/halyards are too heavy so I'll have to redo those along with the flags but it will give me the opportunity to see where those lines want to land. The mizzen yard braces don't run forward tying to the main mast, they seem to run to the stern on the outboard side to a pin rail just above the monkey rail. Once I stab the mizzen into position for the final time I'll then have a better idea how this needs to be done. Thank you to all for following along with me on my journey.
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Mark, I know diddly about ironclads but from the below it seems that a steam powered metal pump could have been in operation in 1860? Interesting history on pumps. https://www.pumpsandsystems.com/history-pumps-through-years 1848 In Seneca Falls, N.Y., Seabury S. Gould purchases the interests of Edward Mynderse and H.C. Silsby in Downs, Mynderse & Co., forming Downs & Co., later known as Goulds Manufacturing Company. 1849 Goulds casts and assembles the world's first all-metal pump.
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Kurt, sorry, I thought the slurry of ash and water was 'pumped' overboard via steam pressure, i.e. pump/pumped. I agree about clinker size but being jagged edged I can foresee clinkers lodging together to form a jam. Yeah, it's been awhile since dad heated our house with coal. Another time, another world.
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An ash well mixing ash with water to pump overboard was ingenious but how did it managed to pump clinkers overboard as well? Seems like the two would have to have separated which begs the question, how were the clinkers removed?
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HWM, welcome to MSW. Nice modeling, you'll fit right in.
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Le Soleil Royal by Nek0 - 1/72 - Marc Yeu
Keith Black replied to Nek0's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Not okay, bad form and all that.- 208 replies
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Siggi, I was smiling when I said what I said. I enjoy life, everyday God finds a way to put a smile on my face.
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I just went to the Midwest WS and they are "temporally out of stock" on everything. Doesn't look good. Nothing on their FB page This pretty penny...that's wack! https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mid/mid5240.htm
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Siggi, I turn 75 next week. I KNOW it's not going to get better, at this point NOTHING gets better!
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Beautiful progress, Siggi. Did you get a new worker? I don't remember seeing the lad with the striped leggings before but maybe that's my bad memory.
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Gary, fantastic tutorial, beautiful work. I hope Midwest is able to continue to be the great supplier they were when I first ordered from them some five years ago.
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Dave, welcome to MSW. I would love to see a photo of your Dos Amigos/Fair Rosamund.
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Dion, welcome to MSW, glad to have you aboard.
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I put a dab of CA gel on the end of the eyebolt shaft and insert and then wipe away any gel excess with a Q-Tip. After thirty seconds I put a dab of normal CA where the eyebolt and wood meet, wait a couple of seconds and wipe away any excess with a Q-Tip.
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