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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Each halyard passes through a single sheave block secured to the deck before being belayed to a spider pin. I used the posted photo of the mizzen as a guide. You bet I am (thank you for the idea) as it's much easier on one's back to sit at a bench and work rather than stand over a model. You also can anchor your elbows and steady shaky ole hands. Thank you for the complement, Rob.
  2. Maximum pull power downward from overhead is a man's body weight. Pulling a line through a block anchored at deck level is going to allow more pulling power because a man is pulling with his back and legs. I've posted a photo of the Tennessee (some 70 yeas later than the Diana) mizzen showing blocks anchored around the mast.
  3. I dabbled back in the day, I know just enough to make me dangerous. I've got air dry clay creations I made over thirty years ago that are still with us. I was always a bit ill at ease with that type of clay because even when dry you can add water and it'll soften up but I guess thirty years is proof it stands the test of time.
  4. Nic, these needle threaders work great for getting into blocks hidden away in small tight spaces due to their flexibility and length. One disadvantage is the paper end one holds on to comes off easily. They will still work but control becomes a little more difficult. https://www.amazon.com/ZZHXSM-Threader-Threading-Embroidery-Threaders/dp/B08ZSL7DY8/ref=sr_1_10?crid=DZZAON3KBX52&keywords=long+needle+threaders&qid=1678975922&sprefix=long+needle-threaders%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-10
  5. Hey, buddy, I do hope you're going to try/test your water techniques on scrape pieces first. I don't know how folks do it but I've seen "water" clinging to the sides of a submarine as it sounds. Water clinging to the Kraken's tentacles would be a hot look but I'd think you want to make sure your technique is fool proof because the very last thing in the world would be to ruin the Kraken. You're making me want get back into clay........"Honey, mind if if I use you stove's oven this afternoon?" Talk about bringing out the Kraken!
  6. Glen, just wow, wow wow wow. The Kraken was going to be the "make or break" part of this build and you nailed it! Once you add the water this thing is gonna pop, I can't wait to see all the water affects you'll create.
  7. Keith, welcome to MSW. Glad to have another Keith aboard.
  8. Yes it is a masterpiece and it needs to be featured somewhere other than just these humble MSW pages.
  9. Bob, Glen, Pat, Rob, Gary, Tom, Brian, and Keith thank you for your kind comments and thank you to all for the likes. I've completed all the off ship work I can do on the mainmast. The top and top gallant lifts are rigged but the braces have to wait till the mast is installed. Also, the main yard doesn't get permanently mounted till the mainmast is installed and the channel stays deadeyes are rigged. Once the foremast top and top gallant lifts are rigged and the foremast installed the Tennessee's rigging will speed up considerably. The lines from the blocks to the spider pins are temporary and are there only to keep the blocks from becoming a tangled mess. Thank you to all for following along and for your continued support. And the journey continues.......
  10. Joe, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  11. Great perseverance, Ras. The fork assembly looks great and like you said, there aren't many shelf potholes.
  12. Denis, welcome to MSW. I love steam power. Glad to have you aboard.
  13. Michael, welcome to MSW. Fantastic model. Glad to have you aboard.
  14. Penguin Kraken! Just remember, you started this, Mr Glen
  15. A man five feet, six inches tall in shoes or boots wouldn't have to lower his head. That's a fair amount of headroom. Thanks, Siggi.
  16. I don't believe I've mentioned the word "penguin" this entire build. Besides, a penguin would look funny with tentacles unless you........
  17. Siggi, what is the measurement between the deck and the bottom of the beam?
  18. Dave, can you lower the cannon by deepening the trunnion groove?
  19. Tom, from what I understand there are a lot of great photos in the book.
  20. Keith and Gary thank you for your comments and thank you to all for the likes. I managed to get the Mizzen ready to rig with passable results by shear beginners luck. With a little experience the Main went okay but I still had issues with the deadeyes not being as level as i would like them to be. For whatever reason the top deadeyes dropped in height ever so slightly as I worked my way from fore to aft. When I got to the Foremast I thought, I 'got this'. What a misguided thought that was as the modeling gods had other ideas. The Fore fought me till the bitter end. I lash both deadeye pairs before glueing them in their respective holes and then attach the shroud lines. It seemed like on ever pair I'd get glue on a bottom lashing line and had to fight to get the lashings pulled tight to secure the tail to the shroud. The port side shroud anchor eye pulled free when i was performing that relatively simple task. But I did manage to get the deadeyes level so in the end I had a small victory. The Fore is ready to be rigged. Before I can get giddy pulling line I need to strop and set the blocks around Main and Fore. I also have to finalize where to set the tie off eyes for both booms which isn't a big deal, it just needs to be done before the mast are set in place. Thank you to all for stopping by and thank you for your continued support.
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