Keith Black
-
Posts
5,666 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Keith Black
-
John, if you note, the fighting towers have arched portals on the model you restored and are different than the model Howard has. His model's fighting tower portals are simply round, not arched which would be a time saving step and makes me thank Howard's model was done at a later date. -
Shotgun!
-
Chris, the images got lost in translation.
-
Bryan, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
-
Yeah well, seating goes quick and I didn't wanna miss out.
-
Where?!
-
Way cool Glen! I keep expecting to see Ragnar leap from amidships ready to do battle with the Kraken.
-
Glad to hear you're out of surgery but sorry to hear you're in a lot of pain. Praying the pain diminishes and that you have complete and speedy recovery.
-
Glad that you did, I learned something.
-
While we're here.......... to accurately depict a gunpowder cask, should the withy hoops be a different color than the staves? A tad lighter in color? The below is the only image I could find of a barrel with withy (?) hoops but it's highly weathered. If all barrels up until the 19th century were made with wooden hoops then unfortunately, there are scads of models portrayed with inaccurate barrels and cask. Keeping up with historical accuracy can be a bugger. I'd say this could be an opportunity for 3D resin model makers to introduce a new line of "accurate" barrels and cask.
-
Bruce, they aren't accurate because the hoops indicate they are made from metal. See my two post that bracket your reply.
-
Something to note......gunpowder cask/barrels were made without metal hoops. I found the below whilst looking about in Google Land. "The ends of the cask are then leveled off and a groove cut into the inside edge to receive the barrel heads-the round ends that close up the casks. Almost all 18th and 19th century barrels were finished off by binding them together with wooden hoops, usually made from split hickory, oak, or ash saplings." To be accurate gunpowder cask/barrels should be painted all wood colors, the hoops should not be painted black, IMHO.
-
Welp, here's everything you ever wanted to know about barrels.......I hope.
-
In the last photo the two objects far right, just below what looks like a chest, are the port and starboard side running lights. I'm not sure about the paired object below the running lights unless it's supposed to be a bollard or possibly a pump? Regarding the stanchions, I count 18 with would be 9 per side, I don't think that is enough. You need to separate each one from the rail cap pieces and place them in the holes and see how many are left wanting and where they go according to their respective height. And the object that looks like a chest, I've not a clue as to its placement unless it goes on the forecastle which doesn't seem right? Regarding the stanchions, this maybe a case where you have to deviate from the original and purchase wood stanchions from one of our listed suppliers. I'd be better able to direct you in that regard if I knew your location.
-
Too funny! 🤣
-
1:24 = 12.70 mm per foot. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes
-
Pick you poison or you can try Cornwall Model Boats, they don't give scale, only size. https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F24+scale+wooden+barrels&client=safari&rls=en&ei=n1fZY9uAKs-uqtsP05e08AQ&ved=0ahUKEwibzKGKsvL8AhVPl2oFHdMLDU4Q4dUDCA8&oq=1%2F24+scale+wooden+barrels&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQDDIHCAAQHhDxBDIFCAAQhgMyBQgAEIYDOgoIABBHENYEELADOgUIABCiBDoKCAAQ8QQQHhCiBDoJCAAQBxAeEPEESgQIQRgASgQIRhgAULMRWO4dYJQ1aAFwAXgAgAFViAHAApIBATSYAQCgAQHIAQTAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#ip=1
-
John, good to hear from you and thank you for posting regarding this model. IMHO the Harry was the crown jewel of this decorative style model made in Germany made in the 20/30's and no one knows the Harry better than yourself. Not to wish any ill will between you and your wife but I'm hoping Howard takes you up on your offer. Keith
-
Good evening from New Jersey USA!
Keith Black replied to Funkingonuts's topic in New member Introductions
Michael, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. -
Such a distinctive style Gary. I never tire viewing your work whether it be for minutes or hours. The natural light spilling down the top of stairway from above makes the stairways look so real. Will that aspect be incorporated into the final scene or will it be lost once framed?
-
Dave, I think the carriage and cannon look great except the wheels need to be darker, IMHO. I treat all my brass with Casey's but wind up painting over it as the treatment never looks right.
-
Thank you Eberhard for making me aware of a possible issue. I worried about that when I was rigging the mizzen so I applied lots of pull both forward and and aft and got no deflection in the shroud lines. I did get some deflection in the running lines but they pulled taut when I tested the standing stays between the mizzen and main. Because I'm working aft to fore I feel confident that the forces on all the shrouds and running lines pull tight as they should when the stays get run to the bow and sprit. This is something I thought about and will watch as work progresses. Thank you again for asking.
-
Thank you Phil. Keith, I shorten game time by taking lots of breaks. The main is ready to be rigged. I can't wait to fill the void that exist between the mizzen and main by adding the main's yards and adding running lines and stays. But, as excited as I am, I'm going to wait and go ahead with the boring job of getting the fore ready for rigging. It was such a long period of time since I added the deadeyes and shrouds to the mizzen that I had to relearn a lot of the how to's and the little time saving tricks. So, while I've got all the tools out for the job and while all is still fresh in my mind, I'll ready the barren fore with it's deadeyes and shrouds. Thank you to all for the comments and likes and for dropping by. Keith
-
Looking good Mike. 👌
Our Emblem ®
