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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Imagining the enormity of line on a clipper, one would also need to imagine that lines wear out....get replaced. And so it seamed logical to attempt to replicate this fact. It was actually one of the easiest to replicate........the hard part was having the epiphany. Rob
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It might cause some to wonder, so I wanted to clear the air on the subject. Why do I use different colored line? The downhauls are larger diameter line and so I chose to model new and older used line... to keep things different. It was not uncommon to see different shades of line...as the older line contrast against the newer. Here is an example so no one thinks I've lost my mind. Rob
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Fantastic build Nils...and the case will be just as wonderful Rob
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Thanks for the suggestion Mark. When I ran the lines while I was building the mast, I identified the lines by forward and aft and port/starboard. This means all I needed to do was decipher through 3 or 4 lines...and those from twisting around one another. I would belay a line then follow it back up and make sure it was totally clear. Occasionally I had to unbelay and unfoul the line...but that didn't happen often and wasn't an issue. All the lines that remain will go through fairleads then down to belay pins on the rail. Just making sure I have all the padeyes secured on the mast and nothing is forgotten. Again...thanks for the fine suggestion and your comments. Rob
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I utilized a similar method to Ed's...while creating the rolles off the model and then loop securing them to the pin with an extended end of the rope itself. I will add another lighter rope coil. Thanks Pat for the comment. Rob
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Passing line down through the top can be tricky...and keeping lines from tangling and twisting is a priority.
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A Little bit of work today finishing up belaying the sheets and downhauls. The buntlines and clews will be kept out of the way with gater clips. I tend to add rope coils at the spider and fife rails when the lines are belayed. All this work gets done under the shrouds and can be troublesome....so I did it now.
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Thanks Gentlemen.....I'm not the superb builder who adheres to the finest detail that many here on these pages are capable of attaining , but I still try to simulate the best I can in the scale I'm working in. Rob
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While I am at it I drilled many holes for the padeyes for the lifts...not to mention the douzens of belay pin holes on the rail(that was tiring). Little bit of progress.....
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Spent a bit of time this morning on the GR..had to sift through the tangle of lines to run them true to their belay points. Many will still have to wait till the fairleads are on the shrouds to be run true.
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Next..I had to decipher the lines and determine their belay locations. I then fixed the halyard to its proper padeye at the base of the mast. I want to get some of these lines that will be belayed to the spider rail and fife belayed so they are out of the way when I begin to rig the shrouds. Rob
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I removed the tape that held the rigging and now I am aligning and separating them to prep them for, either belaying or fixing them with blocks and their purchases. The lower topsail yard halyard needs its purchase rigged too. First I had to drill and mount a number of belay pins on the main weather deck rail.
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GMO....the only tutorial I have is the images I posted....AND any information your require...I can personally tell you...walk ya through it stuff. If you need any assistance just ask, and I'll be more then happy to walk you through it. First...you need a piece of paper(Copy). Draw on the scale panel lines for your scale. Remember to draw both sides... Making sure they are over the top of one another. Then make double sided copies of the *Master* blank. This will be your starting point. Rob
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Yes..I do have a sharp eye. Model trains are my 4th passion too. Telescope making, and furniture making are in there too. I'd love to engage in a discussion in the non ship forum...... There is a live steam outdoor railroad in my town and it is amazing. I wondered what *Other* contraptions you might be making in that very nice modeling machine shop.... Rob
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Fantastic work Ed...tidy and smartly done rigging. Rob
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Yeah...Dowmer...I think I might just rig the shrouds and get the foremast secure... before moving onto the next. Having the most room aft will be quite beneficial. All these sails really require loads of control rigging and I can tuck that all away nicely after the fairleads are installed on the shrouds. I'll work on that tonight. Rob
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I see a little railroad action going on against the wall there...*O* scale possibly? Your work is impeccable. Rob
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Thanks Michael....I've spent years developing the right (from my point of view) look using paper. They still have a natural translucency, but are not unduly wrinkled or opaque. Plus they are easily and quickly made, with very little fuss. I back lit them to demonstrate the natural look of them. Rob
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Then when everything was right....I removed the mast...placed the mast boot...applied the glue, placed the fife rail then glued things into place. I purposefully did not glue the fife rail down at this time in case alignment issues arose. Now, I'll wait till things are good and solid before my next step. Do I begin the mainmast...or should I finish rigging the shrouds on the foremast...while everybody is removable..so I have plenty of room? I might just do that...pull out all the other masts and focus on the shrouds and finding homes for all the line. I'll need fairleads on the shrouds anyway before any lines find belay pins. Rob
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Enough of the Tom foolery. I finished up all the additions I am going to do to the foremast...so it was time to step the mast in place..first a test fit.
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I went a bit looney and set up the main course....just for fun. This isn't the actual main course..but it is a facsimile.
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I then built the lower topsail. I used a cake makingers flower forming ball tool to form the leading edge of my sails. I then added the buntlines
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