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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Well bumbling.......is my way of getting it done. Far too many extremely skilled modelers on these pages make my attempts seam almost comical. Yes..defective. Meaning the tape is so thin that it easily can wrinkle on the white backing....and making things worse is when removing the tape from that backing, the tape is rendered useless for the purpose I am using it for....coppering the hull of model ships. I suppose the tape sold through reportable model houses is slightly thicker, thus removal of the copper foil tape from its backing is relatively a non destructive procedure. This new tape I purchased, nearly is destroyed when removing it from its paper backing. Sooooooo...I thought it through and decided to leave the backing and use contact cement to secure the tape with its backing to the hull......still thinner then the commercial copper sold for coppering model hulls. I will use the slightly thicker model copper for the keel and such but as I mentioned..everything is getting a light coat of metallic paint anyway...to seal things up....and weatherize. Rob
  2. It didn't take me long to enjoy the expeditious method of creating the plates. One by one at this scale is an arduous task. Fast and fabulous is my motto. Rob
  3. This new copper tape is thinner then the original I've had for years...so it pressed less against the sand screen and I reduced it as well to make those indentations even smaller....now, mere suggestions...really. I think I like them too and.... fast. Every step I have expedited. The metallic paint does two fold..... subduing the brightness and aging the copper and by covering any exposed *white* backing. Only problem is avoiding defective tape..prior to pressing and I have lots of tape...so that will be negated.. Thanks for your fine comments. Rob(Just a bumbling modeler throwing it together with spitballs and tape)
  4. I suppose you could, however the paint is not entirely covering the copper....simply nocking off the bright shean.....Plus the paint seals the cracks between rows. The copper looks nearly like what munz metal looks like after it has seen salt water. It's no longer *Yellow*, but almost brownish metallicy. I can cut and press 7" long strips in no time...and gluing them on the hull is nearly as fast. Just what I like. I'm glad I tackled the coppering issue before hand and worked out the bugs now. I'll finish up the trim around the deck...add the planksheer and channels and fit the 3 hawse holes..then mask off the hull. Rob(Hack modeler at work)
  5. Fantastic work Albert.........
  6. Using the new shiny plate...I assembled a bit to see the detail impressed with my roller. These are 5mmX 9mm plates. I laid this 2"x7" plank in about 1 minute. Removal of the copper from the backing wrecked the imprint and even rippled it beyond repair... so I simply applied contact cement to the plank and the back of the copper...I then sprayed it with a light coat of metallic paint to tone down the brightness and add weathering, as what the yellow metal looks like after exposure to sea water. Here is a before and after the paint treatment. Rob
  7. Brian...may what method you used to fare your bulkheads and to keep them contoured to each other? Rob
  8. Again..thanks for your frankness. Interesting enough...the new copper I received in the mail yesterday is much brighter copper...almost yellowcopperish........kinda. Not orangey copper. Anyway... when pressed the nail marks are significantly lighter and when the plates are pressed in place they soften even further. the only problem I'm having with the new copper tape is wrinkles that appear when you pull off the backing. I'll have to work through THAT issue when I get to that stage of the build. Just between you and me...( )Riiiight...I've been experimenting with a roll press that you can simply roll over the hull after you have painted the copper bottom and it impresses a (representation) of a copper plate system into the uncured paint. It's Technique sensitive....cuz you have to impress the embossing at the right time on the drying paint. More to come on that later. Rob
  9. Brian..what do you think of the final pressed plates with the minor nail impressions..using the wire and sanding mesh? It is my habit to use untypical building methods....I'm not so precise with extreme details like found on others magnificent POF builds. I'm more of a hack builder...skip unnecessary steps and processes....cover up blemishes with any thing that does the job...and then as with the original...Paint the heck out of it to seal and protect from the elements....in my case the elements are ME. I appreciate your opinion. Rob
  10. Yep she had four decks and the top most deck was flush with the rail...the SPAR deck. That is why she had a rail nearly all the way around it. Rob
  11. I didn't have much time but I spent about an hour laying decking and adding the rail base around the spar deck. Rob
  12. If this is permissible. https://www.facebook.com/ThePoliticalInsider/videos/1140193162682770/
  13. One other thing Ed. Have you or are you going to consult William Crothers book; *The Masting of American Merchant Sailing in the 1850"s* Before or during your rigging of the YA? It is a fascinating read and more then informative and instructional. It has aided me greatly with my Great Republic research. Rob
  14. While I'm at work and away from my model shop...I thought it expedient to show some examples of the Top Sail rigging I have referenced and have talked about on several instances. Possibly unbeknownst to some or many.......clipper ships were originally rigged with a single topsail. Making reefing and furling in any weather, particularly bad weather a tough job. In the late 1840's early 1850's folks...namely a gentleman named Forbers invented a means to quickly reef the sail, by inventing a second sail and spar to make up the entire space one topsail occupied. Two sails doing the job of one sail.....but the top spar/sail of these two sails slid up and down the top mast..while the second spar/sail slid up and down the top of the doubling of the main mast. In this way these sails could be reefed with minimal men aloft...apart from furling. Now another gentleman came along named Howes, who improved the design by fixing the lower spar/sail to the main mast head and only allowing the top spar/sail to move up and down the topmast. In both designs it permitted the top spar/topsail to be lowered over the bottom spar/sail reducing its effectiveness and in essence cutting sail and permitting easy furling because the sail was not full of air and taught. Here is a painting showing the Howes design...on the clipper drying its sails(To the left)...notice the top spar/topsail over laying the bottom spar/topsail as the top spar is lowered in its lowest position. Hope this in some way help bring a picture to all the discussion and chatter. Rob
  15. Magnificent work of the highest quality....thank you for treating us to such a fine example of model ship building. Rob
  16. Small imperfections make the model yours....not to sound like a non perfectionist...but they really do. Do you think real boat/ship makers didn't have building blemishes in their vessels? One tends to be their own worst critic.....I think your build is super. Even if you are painting in low temp high humidity...... :A WORLD WHERE ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN AND USUALLY DOES....Ain't it fun? Rob
  17. Man...you're moving along.........Paint already! I'm still laying decking..... Rob
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