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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    George, being the general modeling hack that I am, over the 40 years of my collecting kits , I have accumulated thousand of blocks from various models such as Cutty Sark, Connie, Alabama, Corsage,……you name it I modify their blocks for my own purposes. Each one may get restropped, painted , bracketed and hooked or looped to make them suitable. As is my habit, I will reuse any part or combinations of parts of previously engineered items for my purposes. It is the end result that matters, NOT, how I got there. Thanks for asking. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Thanks Rick. Actually I’m retired ……but I was a DDN. A Denturist. Kinda like a prosthodontist, but my specialty was removable and maxiofacial prosthetics. Now I’m just a humble procurer of clipper ship relics. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Sweet job for sure Rick310. Beautiful finish....clean and precise. Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Sweet job Rob..... Love a little lathe work thrown in there now and again. Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    Interesting Rich......I never noticed this before, or if I did, I dismissed it....but I see some type of bracket beneath the lower channel, between the first and second, fourth and fifth and the tenth and eleventh chain plates? Interesting......Seams to be on all three masts plates....... Can you confirm this on any other images of her? Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    And here we go Nenad.....tops are being made.......good job. Oh...I can't believe you're going on, or are on 9 years for this log....what an adventure. Keep going strong... Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    I always install my foot ropes first...then install the stirrups. Never have a problem with string curling. since I hydrate the string forming it straight. Bammmnnnn! Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    You humble me Vlad. If I was only that fast. Fortunately for me, I have an advantage over you in that, I have been rigging clipper ships for over 48 years and their rig is no surprise to me. You are doing it right...study, study, study. Familiarize yourself with the terms and the functions of each line and you will have good success, and your model will be an *accurate* scale model. When I get criticism from experts on any possible error I may have made, I can confidently claim the so called error was one of Artistic expression based upon a number of unsubstantiated possibilities, NOT on factual atypical practice I failed to replicate. Keep educating yourself and you will do fine. you have thus far. Rob.
  9. rwiederrich
    No.....Actually it is another of my modeling hacks. First I used stainless steel wire(any good extremely stiff wire will do, and glued a length from stem to stern of the boat to create the peek for the cover. Typically this was a run of rope or a specifically made pole and the canvas was laid over that. (Creating a peek so rain water would roll off like a roof) I then ran masking tape right along the wire and formed one side of the canvas. Cleaning the edges and forming them correctly. Then I ran the other half of tape joining the other side at the centerline. Again pressing against the edge or gunnal of the boat to press the tape down snugly. Once finished and trimmed up nicely the canvas was painted grey. I used epoxy paint because it seals the tape down nicely. Any good paint will seal the tape down and to itself I'm sure. I used plain masking tape because it retains a nice micro dimpled appearance of real canvas. Then I added the draw ties along the canvas edge and weathered the entire arrangement. I've used this technique on nearly all my models for over 40 years and I have seen no failures of the tape method. Paint covers a multitude of sins. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Some pics keep coming out sideways. Grrrrrrrrrr Let me try again. 😢 Sorry
  11. rwiederrich
    I had to finish up some left over minor work on Glory’s fore fife rail. I added the lower brace and the pins. Here are some pics of the work and down the hull/deck Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    I can’t speak for Kevin, but my process uses India ink diluted in 99%~100% isopropyl alcohol , then sprayed onto your deck/model. When the alcohol evaporates it leaves the dark diluted ink. Which finds the cracks and highlights detail. Weathering the surface. Then I highlight that with chalks Other similar techniques vary. Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    I hope the process works out swell for you. The smaller the scale, the less detail required. I used a ponce wheel when I was creating my plates back when I built the Great Republic.....but that method proved to be far too time consuming for me and for the time spent,...produced few plates for my labors. So I opted for another method that I devised. I was going to emboss each 8" strip of copper tape with segment lines and nail impressions....all in the same pass through my repurposed clothes roller. I could roll out hundreds of these pre-impressed tape tiles to cover the over 2500 plates I would need for the job. I, again used this method, when I copper plated my current Glory of the Seas hull. Now, since neither of these vessels was plated with copper...but with muntz metal...I opted to paint the entire coppered hull with a metalic paint that mimicked the color of oxidized muntz....NOT copper. I don't like shinny. Here is a pic of the finished tape strips. and finished hull/model. Good luck in your plating adventures.
  14. rwiederrich
    Vlad....if your build was mostly a product of 3D printed parts...I would agree with your opinion to remake them. But in this particular instance, the hand craftedness is harmoniously and attractively incorporated within the hand craftedness of the entire build. Plus as the model is passed from family or friend on down the line...it will retain its earthyness and attractiveness as a hand made model. Go get-em. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Why do that? You will remove a hand made element of your build. My hoods scroll work is far from perfect...but it is hand made and hand painted. Its an imperfect aspect of my build, that makes my build more tangible and authentic. IMHV. However, do what you think best. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    No...make sure you get the dust jacket with the book....they are usually provided...since the artwork is on it. Some later copies of Glory of the Seas may provide photographic corrections, but that is usually not noticed unless you have both older and newer copies. You shouldn't have any issues with this book...it is a great resource. Good luck. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    Great job on the skylight grating.... Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    The plans are found in his second book, *Clipper ship Captain*.......Sorry. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    It is a representation of a dirty tarpaulin, that was hastily placed over the winch. The idea was taken from photos of Ferriera when she was tied up at some backwater port.
  20. rwiederrich
    Indeed, that is why I like the ink in alcohol suspension. It's randomness is very natural....accounting for angle and shadow. I used it heavily when I was building my Cutty Sark conversion into the Ferriara. Ferriera was extremely dirty and weathered and plus all the heavy additions and mods...it was an extremely fun build. Here are some images of the deck and its furniture after heavy weathering with inks and chalks. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    Bravo Keith....... Will you be putting ratlines on the topgallant shrouds as well? Or just the mains? Snappy work my friend. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    This image of her shows the bowsprit boom. Zoom in and see Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Thanks Michael and Pat. I appreciate the compliment greatly. This scale allows me just enough size for ample detail but small enough to permit me freedom from the kind of details larger scales demand. Thank so much. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Worked a bit on the bowsprit guy boom. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    Oh man...that means something...Michael...coming from an extremely accuracy and detailed oriented modeler yourself. I'm humbled...really. Rob

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