lmagna

Had completed sanding of planked part of a deck. Bow is waiting for planking..
 

Then i worked on keel, filled holes with wood putty, and give a bit of a sanding after filler was dried. There are few spots that do need some extra filling...
 

 

 
Then i attacked windows. Man, those are tiny one, very tiny. When i finish with Sultana i would need a new prescription glasses..
One piece of window panes, 1mmx1mm...
 

So, first i traced the windows on the paper.
 

 
then put a piece of plastic i cut from blueberry case and fix it on the paper with traced windows. Next i started to make window frames.. After each window i put the transom on completed window to make sure it fits properly. Then next window, same process...
 

 

 

Completed windows and plastic sheet cut in correct size. I have made executive decision and decided only to install a vertical window panes and not horizontal. It would be very difficult to cut them into correct size and install to look normal..
 

After that, i put a piece of tape and paint it in flat black. The reason is that paint will not stick on plastic sheet..
It would take some time to dry it so shipyard is closed for today..
 

 
Happy modeling..
 
 
 
 

Second verse, same as the first. The other garboard is done.
 

 

It's funny how a little bend or twist can trick your eyes. Here the leading edge appears to curve upwards. However laying another stick edge to edge shows the GB upper edge to be as flat as it can be, just like it should be. The next stick fits like a glove.

You can see bottom strake at frame 2 is a repair job. The sapelli broke as I was bending it. Too dang thick!
 
I kinda lost track of planks and bands. The GB is in band C. The sticks you see coming down are bands A and a few of B. I think I'm going to recalculate it all to make 1 band from the remaining space. The dividers will make that a simple effort. I'll post a few pix & notes on how I do that. Stay tuned.
 

Thanks for looking in, my friends.
 
I'm still having eyeball problems (new glasses the cause?).   And working on redoing the pumps. The more I looked at them, the less I liked what I saw. 
 
Dan, I'm using the 3rd hand (modified) also. The one's in the pic were from "fiddling"...playing a bit and thinking things through.  There's not enough "space" for serving but I'm looking over your method and will try that when I get to the "real" rigging.  Re-do that... there's enough room for maybe two or three wraps of seizing but I'll have to check spacing.
 
Ken, Popeye, and Sam...  Yeah.. breaks.  I think you're right that I need more of them.
 
Jaager, the line I'll be using is some 100% cotton (Coats & Clark).  No fuzz nd a visible "twist".  

The .75 range of size i used above as an example was just a figure off of the top of my head made rather late in the evening and I suppose i should not have done that. I apologize for my laziness. The real range at 1/48th scale between the largest and smallest tree nails in Jaagers formula is .3333 mm. Hardly a  significant amount when viewed with the normal human eye. The difference becomes even less when in all probability you are dealing with tree nails that are somewhere in the mid range anyway.  
 
If 1.25 mm is what works for you then Jaager worked it out with his formula. Might give him a thanks.
 
Still don't know what ship/period you are building or are contemplating to build so really sorry i can't comment on your decision further than that.
 
Lou

I forgot to say that the 1" per 100' quote I used above was for hull tree nails not deck, based on archaeological excavations on the Thames. The paper does not state anything about deck tree nails.
 
I personally like Jaager's numbers best. But at this scale it will make almost no difference I think as you are looking at less than 1/32" or .79mm if you are using MM, between large and small.
 
Still an interesting question. I learned a couple of things from the answers as well.
 
Lou

Hi Mark
Probably a pretty dumb suggestion as I have never in my life worked with tackle as small as this and therefore it is kind of like the student talking to the Sensei.
 
Would it be possible to pin the blocks to a flat surface like a bug collection with pins to hold them until you are able to secure the outer rope and hooks? Then you could hold them with a third hand type of tool by the secured lines and run the pulley ropes through them until they are fully rigged.
 
I am almost certain that there is something that probably prevents this method from working but I thought I would throw it out there anyway just in case.  

Hi Mark
Probably a pretty dumb suggestion as I have never in my life worked with tackle as small as this and therefore it is kind of like the student talking to the Sensei.
 
Would it be possible to pin the blocks to a flat surface like a bug collection with pins to hold them until you are able to secure the outer rope and hooks? Then you could hold them with a third hand type of tool by the secured lines and run the pulley ropes through them until they are fully rigged.
 
I am almost certain that there is something that probably prevents this method from working but I thought I would throw it out there anyway just in case.  

This morning I gauged out a groove in the base plate where the model will be sitting. It's about 1/16 inch deep. I could have made it deeper to 1/6 inch but I wanted the sea surface to come to the top of the side molding and with the two filler pieces that'll work.  The model sits in it quite level too.
Next I cut two pieces of that 3/16 backing board and glued and nailed it to the base plate, leaving room for the model to sit in. Measuring the distance from that filler piece I will be adding another layer of that 3/26 board on top of that. And so I did. Now I have 1/4 inch from these filler boards to the waterline.
 
This will give me a 1/4 inch thick polymer sea that'll also come up to the edge of the side molding. The model lays in there quite nicely and steady and on an even keel.  I'm a happy camper 
Next will be measuring how much of the polymer I need and buy the stuff and other supplies at Hobby Lobby. I hope they have a dark enough blue coloring but I can always use polymer paint to the surface. I'll do it like I would painting on canvas. The paints I have may no longer be good so I'll get some from Hobby Lobby.
 
Boris send me a message that the deck of "Java" is still too light. He said that it was closer to black. So I mixed some of the dark grey with black and will have to paint the deck again. There are still some items that need straightening, mainly the railings, they got a beating with all the handling. I'll wait with that till "Java" is firmly secured in the sea.
 
Okay, that's it for today.  here are a few pixs of the progress.
 

This shows "Java" with the double set of filler material.
 

A closeup of the bow inside the groove. Can you imagine that it's only 1/4 inch from the filler material to the waterline?
 

A closeup of the stern
 

Here I have put some blue masking tape to the board for a visual effect. 
 

Another shot from above.
 
Cheers,
 

Hello Everyone! Been ill a few days, but wanted to update on the progress... 
 
I must admit, my first post did have tons of gaps, nailheads everywhere , etc
 
But thank GOD, wood is very forgiving... I've sanded the model quite a bit now, and its still a work in progress, but I feel like the Black Prince, Machiavelli once said... "The ends justify the means".. I feel with hard work, and correcting the mistakes, I can get this model to look respectable, and even beautiful... with your advice, and help as well.. which is greatly appreciated...
 
a SMALL update:
 
I hope everyone is well...  Your friend
Sargon
 

Thank you @BANYAN, @mtaylor, @Omega1234, @druxey, @paulsutcliffe, @BenF89, and @oneslim for your responses.
______________________________________________________________
Added the fender piers.

And spent a day cutting up cork pieces (previously made from hand-sanding blocks). They needed to be much smaller in size and have at least one flat surface showing, like a fracture line. Made a few samples of cork rock beds for painting tests.


The last sample looks the best for showing the silt stains from previous floods and tidal lines.

French ... judas
 
But I forgot to tell you, you are doing another wonderful job on these dual barrel turrets, Scott

Or italian coma-ci-ciamo

Thingamajig's
 

Or in Dutch "Kiekeboes" or "Gluurluikjes"

Or the German equivalent, wieauchimmeresheißt.

I ve used many thousands of treenails in my current boat, mainly to hold the planking in place (no glue used). I also use 1 mm screws to temporarily hold things together and then remove them and fill the holes with tree nails. For a quick way of making them in bulk, at any size have a look at this
 
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/13063-tree-nails-in-bulk/&tab=comments#comment-398038
 
 

I do Carl........I'll take a look at his log as well.  I did look at Dave's log......he hit on some of the conclusions I have been thinking of.   the curve of the decks is one of the problems.   I added one more curved steps to the top,  and even though I can get it to align to the second level,  I see it's not even to the first level.   it will probably need a straight step at the bottom,  and it may need to be trimmed.  one set is still intact.......while separating the other set,  it didn't come apart too good,  so I will need to make another whole set of stairs.   I didn't get anything done yesterday.......ended up working on the car,  getting it ready for state inspection.
 
thanks for reminding me about Adrieke's build....I'll look at his as well   

Darrell - I suppose I could have cheated and glued the false keel on before doing the garboard. I could have cut a rabbet into that. 
 
I think the potential problem with the kit method is getting the bottom edge of the garboard flush to the false keel. You have to lay the GB leaving a slot at the bottom to fit the false keel into.
 
Of course a lot of the nastiness there will be covered by the second layer of planks. I'll have to check to see if that layer requires a GB also. I'm hoping it's just a "skin" for the first layer. Did I say I don't like double planking?

These stachions are hard to work with, and very fragile as well.  I hope there’s a couple extra on the sprue  or I am going to be screwed.

OHHHH

Those are watchamadoodles. 
 

These blast bags had predrilled holes unlike the bigger ones. Much much better. 

then I glued all plastic floors etc.

next is to bend these sliding hatches? I dont know what they are. 

Hello Barbara
I do not know how large the sails would be in 1/38th but I imagine they would be quite large. One somewhat expensive option could be to buy a sail set, https://www.modelerscentral.com/decorations/sail-sets-sail-plans-sail-cloth/mantua-sail-sets/sail-set-hms-victory-178-scale/ and scale them up to your size. Probably a less expensive option would be to buy a plastic model and use the sails from the kit as a pattern and again scale them up to match your scale. wish I could help more as your father and you have made a fantastic model truly to be proud of.
 
Lou

Hello Barbara
I do not know how large the sails would be in 1/38th but I imagine they would be quite large. One somewhat expensive option could be to buy a sail set, https://www.modelerscentral.com/decorations/sail-sets-sail-plans-sail-cloth/mantua-sail-sets/sail-set-hms-victory-178-scale/ and scale them up to your size. Probably a less expensive option would be to buy a plastic model and use the sails from the kit as a pattern and again scale them up to match your scale. wish I could help more as your father and you have made a fantastic model truly to be proud of.
 
Lou

Today i had some extra hours in shipyard; here are results.
I have done deck staining, of course first had to mask the red painted parts so they don't get a golden oak patina..
 

 
Run a light layer of stain and clean the extra stain with piece of bounty. It ended up be a nice color..
 

After that i mounted all keel parts. Glued them to the hull with cyano gel and carpenter' yellow glue.
 

 

 

 

Then i noticed that my rudder is a bit smaller that needed; for some reason i did not get rudder measurements correctly from ship plan.
So, lets do it again. I still had some extra 4mm basswood that was left over after i made a first rudder. Back on drawing board, traced old rudder, adjusted the length and start building it. It was not that hard, practice make it perfect :-).
 

 


 
Then followed Chuck' suggestion, i did a bit of carving to make the rudder a bit more appealing..
 

 


Testing the rudder fit...
 


 
And accomplishment for today..
 

 
Happy modeling..