lmagna

Finally the brass 20mm’s, 6 in all 

Main guns 

Secondary guns 

For the blocks
I am happy that I have never thrown away the old blocks from Heller's SR. They are actually too big for the Revell Bounty, but for my application they are quite ok.
I have already thought about how to make small blocks, without success for the time being.
When I see how you can make such detailed parts on such a small scale. then making small blocks should be no problem for you .
 
As stated in post 1.
the whole box ended almost immediately in the waste bin 😳
 
First, i wanted to throw everything away. But it had some trouble with this idea.
Main goals are : making of a good model and have fun.

Rigging continues slowly. Lots of free time now, so I do an update faster than usual
Made a sketch to have an idea of which wire should go where.


And now and then a corona break, with wife and cat on the couch.

The cat doesn't mind 
 
Thanks for following

Amen to that, cars had bags of character and charm back then. 
Excellent work as always Craig !

Glad to see you back CDW!  Love the subject you're working on - cars from that period are amongst my favorite.  Sad looking out into the road and seeing cars completely stripped of all that cool style from back then.
 
Nice score on the display cabinet - that looks absolutely perfect!  I've been thinking about what I could get or build to store my upcoming models (assuming I get around to building them) and that one you showed couldn't be better.

The fenders show the odd use of multi-colored plastic in construction of this kit. A good layer of primer coat will quickly solve that issue.
Interior is very simple, but will mostly be unseen anyway. The finished body is what I'm after with this kit. Love the art deco lines of it.
 

You can see how the wings on the F4F and FM-1 differ in the picture below.  The top is the wing from the Wolfpack FM-1 wing fold conversion set, the bottom the kit wing.  Lou, you're correct that the extra gun per wing was located further out (see the smaller second upside down "L" shape panel).  To the left in yellow, is the Aires gun bay.  If I wanted to open the gun bays on the FM-1, I'd have to essentially cut off the right half of the Aires resin part.  You can see how the Wolfpack wings are nicely detailed.
 

 
The Aires detail set also includes parts for a wing fold version.  Instead of giving replacement wings, the Aires set has you cut up the wings and insert these resin parts into the open section between the top and bottom halves of the wing.  The parts look fairly nice.  I went with the Wolfpack set as I thought I would do the FM-1 version, and thought it was going to be a little easier using the replacement wings as opposed to cutting up the kit wings.
 

 
 
I think I'm just about done with the engine.  Lot of detail in the Aires resin for sure.
 

 
These were all done with Vallejo products.  Vallejo Metal "Duralinum" for the base, a mixture to  get to the bluish-gray engine cover, dark rubber for the control rods, brass for the ignition wires.  Then I used Vallejo black wash for the recesses, and dirtied them up a bit using these Vallejo washes (first time using them, but really like them):
 

Part 4
 
Thanks for the 'LIKES',  and the great comments.
 
This is the bottom of the nose section with the 1/2" chrome steel ball as nose weight.  Held in place with white glue so it dose not rattle around.

Shown is the main spar that sets the dihedral.  It has the nose gear bay attached.  Notice the bulge that protrudes into the cockpit floor,  This is for the nose wheel when retracted. 
Here
Here is the belly pan with the spar and nose gear bay attached.  The ball weight also is seen.

 
This is a test fit of the top and bottom of the fuse.  The silver on the inner wing is Bare Metal Foil.  This was a high wear area because the pilot and maintance people would  climb up to this area to enter the cockpit or do work via the self storing ladder to the rear.  

This is the cockpit tub.  The wires are for the radios on the shelf behind the pilot.

Here is the radio rack.  The fine wire is the radio antena leadin,  which passes through the rear canopy.

 
And here is the pilot seat.  The back cushon was made from paper and thin plastic stock.  The decal was home made and states 'US AIR CORPS".

 
More to Come
 
BobW
 
 
 
 

I think that this picture may hold at least part of the answer Ken. Just shoot over the side and observe the impact of the rounds in the water.


Simple and pretty low tech but I would think it would get the job done. kind of using the side of a building to aim the headlights on your car back in the day.
That was done with a fairly simple gear set up that was designed in WWI for the aircraft that mounted the guns behind the prop. It is just a matter of stopping or delaying the firing of the next round as the blade comes into the field of fire. It was all geared to the crank shaft of the engine and would work at any RPM changing the rate of fire of the gun(s) as needed automatically. 

Lusitania Funnels are up and rigged. The ventilator covers are also installed. The funnel caps are not glued yet, just stuck on there crooked. Two of the ventilator covers had to be skewed as the rigging was hitting them. The funnels also wouldn't sit straight on their platforms, they rocked side to side so I used a slower setting epoxy to give me some time to get them to sit straight. The covers were tedious and so was threading the funnel cables but I'm glad I now have at least some of those lines out of my way. It was becoming a tangled mess with EZ Line laying everywhere. That's it for today!!

A new, interesting challenge.  I happened to notice while staring at the plans (something I find myself doing quite often) that the chainplates run against the hull underneath the rub rail and the cap rail. My immediate thought was “Oh [expletive deleted], I should have cut notches in those two rails before gluing them to the side of the hull.” But as I thought more about it, I wondered how difficult it might be to cut the notches exactly where needed in a boat-length strip of wood before it was attached to the hull, and would the notches weaken the strip where it needs to bend when glued to the hull?  It would be just my luck to have a strip break as I am as I am bending the lengthy strip to the hull with a coat of drying glue on it.  All academic of course since now I have no choice but to cut the notches after the rails are glued to the hull. 

 
So very carefully, timidly perhaps, I drilled a couple of very small holes in the caprail marking the ends of the first notch.  Then I put a new blade in one of my X-Acto knives and gingerly connected the dots so to speak. Amazingly the end result was a notch I could slide the Britannia chainplate through.  
 

 
Now with a little too much confidence I made the second notch. As can be seen in the second photo below, the holes weren't drilled as close to the hull as they should have been, with the result that at the bottom of the notch there wasn’t much more than paint separating the notch from fresh air.  The final two notches were done with a little more care.
 
 
Next was the rub rail. After staring at it from all angles, I decided that would be pressing my luck.  It undoubtedly could be done by drilling the starter holes from below, but we all know drilled exit holes don’t always appear exactly where planned.  So I cut the chainplates at the top of the rub rail and figured no one looking at the finished product would ever know the difference.  
 

 
As can be seen above, the kit supplied fitting is a single piece, Britannia chainplate and deadeye together, and of course a Brittania colored deadeye just wouldn’t do. I decided I would paint the deadeyes the Flat Earth color discussed in a prior post, and paint the surrounding metal above the caprail black.  Below the caprail the chainplate would be painted white to match the hull.  In the photo below you can also see the notch I cut a little farther away from the hull than I should have.
 

 
I found that I had some tiny nails that I could use to simulate bolt heads, so I drilled a couple of holes in each chainplate to put the nails through.  I then put some glue on the back of the chainplates, slid them through their notches, and pressed them against the side of the hull for a minute or so while the glue dried. Then I grabbed the drill again and carefully drilled into the hull.  The chainplates are placed outside two stanchions, so there was some depth to drill into. The first two times I did this, it dislodged the glued chainplate from the hull (in my impatience I probably didn’t let the glue dry long enough), so I had to hold the deadeye pretty tightly to hold the whole thing in place while drilling.  Some of the paint rubbed off making my very careful paint job look pretty sloppy (but easily enough remedied).
 
Oddly in the picture below, the chainplates don’t look as parallel as they really are.
 

 
Another coat of paint on the upper half of the hull, and the whole thing is beginning to look  pretty good.
 

 
Daylight savings time just ended, and being a morning person, it's nice to look out the window when I get up and see some light.  ☀️ 😎
 

Thanks, Valeriy

Sorry Roger, but I don't know the exact name in English, maybe it's a die.
https://markis.su/shop/filernaya-doska-eagle/

Thx Kurt ! 😉
In fact, the local lord has no garage at all... 😁

The passage on the left will surely serve as a wood cutting workshop for the village, in addition to being a back yard for access to the fortified tower. The one on the right is on the side of the grain barn, and should accommodate a manger or something, I don't know yet.
Finally, there will certainly be a fence between the two arches to park the animals.

Ekis,  The lord only has a two car garage?
 
Really nice.
 
Kurt
 

The roofs are advancing, but while waiting to be finished, a series of intermediate photos with aging already well underway and 2 courtyards on the right to properly insert the building in the village. 😁
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah.............. As big as a house fly! As a matter of fact in your part of the world the fly may be bigger!
 
Your ability to put these infinitesimaly intricate guns together in such a short time is nothing short of amazing to me.

Hi Bill, 
 
First of all 1,2&3 threads are a continuation to be rigged through a triple hole block and tied back into the bowsprit. No4, is the same thread through a block making a triangular shape again tied bk onto the bowsprit. No5 thread is attached to the other end of the block in No4 and will eventually be rigged to the 2nd crows nest on the foremast and has nothing to do with Nos1,2 or3.
Btw, there are another 2 triple holed blocks to get rigged the same way for the fore and main mast standing rigging.
 
Have gave you the 2 photos to see work in progress and finished example.

 

Yeah.............. As big as a house fly! As a matter of fact in your part of the world the fly may be bigger!
 
Your ability to put these infinitesimaly intricate guns together in such a short time is nothing short of amazing to me.

thanks all for the kind comments     as I was scrolling down,  I made the realization that I had posted this update on the wrong log.....       I won't bother to change it.....but I'll make sure in the future    thanks for the likes as well!
 
building a fictitious ship Richard does have it's rewards.  it give one a chance to express a little more freedom,  but still one has to be careful not to go out on a limb    the Clotilda,  on the other hand,  is a known ship......I've found that I won't get this model as correct as I would like,  but I will certainly get her in the ballpark.   the Bluenose is looking awesome!

Thanks Mike,
 
I'd be very interested to hear/see how you go with the Zero paints and 2k clear.

Fantastic work Grant
 
Makes me want to hop in and take a tour of the fall countryside, rain and all.

Yeah.............. As big as a house fly! As a matter of fact in your part of the world the fly may be bigger!
 
Your ability to put these infinitesimaly intricate guns together in such a short time is nothing short of amazing to me.