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    Centerville Ohio

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  1. The ship has significant lacquer/stain build up. It is covering details of the original state. The question is the consistency of approach. That is, if I remove the coating from one area do I do it for the whole ship? The yards, bowsprit and decks are stripped, ready for finishing. The furniture will get a light stripping. My thought is to lightly run some furniture restorer,not stripper, across the outside of the ship where if is stained. That way I keep a layer of lacquer over the artwork. The outside will be darker than the decks but 1) it shows the old and new,2) shows off the woodworking excellence, and 3) provides contrast in different sections of the ship encouraging more interest. Two photos above this entry is a shot that illustrates the different artwork and differences in the reconditioned vs received areas of the deck. I welcome any any opinions or ideas.
  2. Upon cleaning the deck, it became apparent that thick layers of stain had been applied to the deck. Probably an interim "spruce up". The ladders are also preventing a thorough access to surfaces. They will be removed and cleaned. I am working to carefully remove some of the stain without injuring the wood. I am pleased with the result but I anticipate that the cannon will be in the way too. I don't want to disturb them. Hmmmm I'll work around them for now. The first photo shows the difference in the top decks that are stripped and the "spruced up" deck surfaces. I keep running into small splits and sprung wood. Under different conditions I might replace the affected areas but under the given guidelines I will only reglue, sand, fill and smooth to the extent the original blemishes are rectified.
  3. Before beginning it was important to establish ground rules for the restoration. It’s too easy to jump in to such a project and find myself rebuilding the model instead of restoring it. I decided on 4 parameters: Maintain the approach originally used in the build; Conserve carvings and woodwork to extent possible; Use as much of original material as possible, and the rework will be bounded by the Popular Science instructions and plans (nothing extra). After photographing and developing my approach, I started the disassembly process. Since all rigging will be reworked, most of it was removed. The ratlines were still viable so those will be kept. All the handmade deadeyes were cleaned and collected. I found that the masts and some furniture was loose so they were removed for cleaning and resetting. All masts and yards were stripped of glued-on line. The builder used drilled holes in the yards and masts as belaying points. That led to some chipping damage, especially on the yard ends. I built up those areas by pressing glue laden walnut sawdust onto the ends. When it hardens and I refinish the yard I should have good material to work with. The lookout platforms are fenced. I thought it was metal but it is cardstock. Ninety year old cardstock is brittle! I think the paint is the only thing keeping it together. This will be a major concern as we progress. It is inevitable that damage is discovered. There are a couple of places where a repair will have to be considered. The main top fore mast was broken at the base. A nail had been used to set it but the dowel split. I reset it and repaired the split. The ship got its first dusting and next it will be cleaned.
  4. Recently our club, Shipwrights of Central Ohio, was queried about restoring an old family heirloom. We were sent photos of a scratch built galleon with uniquely painted sails. The next day I was digging thru that "I'll get to this soon" pile of plans and I opened an envelope with plans from Popular Science, dated 1926. The picture of the finished ship on the instruction booklet reminded me of the photos we had seen at our meeting. After some quick phone conversations with my mates, I contacted the ship owners. The ship, the Nuesta Senora de Afortunado, had been built by their father in the thirties and refurbished by him in the seventies. The instructions confirmed that the plans I found were for the same ship---we had a million in one event! The owners and I transferred the ship at our Oct club meeting. We were all able to inspect the ship and compare it to the plans. We spent some time afterwards discussing the job and restoration philosophy. With plans and ship in hand the restoration starts.
  5. Typical of 1901 era coastal, shallow-water cargo ships, this girl is named Mary Alice.
  6. About the size of a Crayon, this model was built from on-line images. Hull is solid balsa, sails are card stock and anchors, lanterns and flag staffs are wire.
  7. I'd sure like to be able to make something as nice as this
  8. This is a great, realistic example of such ships. Nice job. Excellent detail
  9. Boxnotes


    Styrene covered plywood and a tape tube made a pretty nice replica. Luckily the internet has a plethora of plans and photographs to use as reference. Interestingly the configuration of the ship changed enough over time to throw doubt into some drawings.
  10. This is a slightly kit bashed model of the Phantom kit. I added a charging dog figurehead and changed the name to the Ruff Waters as a gift for my vet.
  11. Mastless deck to display its furniture
  12. Geobukseon, the Turtle, was a 15th Century ship that sported an iron, spiked shell over its top to defend against fire projectiles and guns This is a kit-bash of the Young Modeler 1/65 scale model. This model is sold as a two-deck and I added the third deck with a removable top.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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