
king derelict
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Super nice wall mount. Great imagination and beautifully executed alan
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The last two days have been spent decalling the model. A lot of small decals widely spread across the plane. I thought it was best to do them before the PE because holding the model after the PE is going to be delicate. Actually I had to do the decals in several sessions for the same reason. The Mikro Mir decals are very nice. They don't have a lot of extra carrier film, they slide off the backing nicely and seem well registered. I had to go back to photos of the real thing several times because the kit instructions for placing the decals didn't always seem sensible and are probably wrong in places. I went with the photos I need to tidy up the anti-glare black below the cockpit windows, then another satin coat to seal everything followed by the props and onto the PE. I plan to try to weather it quite heavily after the PE is on. A better shot to show the struts holding the ramp Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments. Alan
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Thanks Mike The instructions didn't mention being a tail sitter or adding weight. I tried some weight in the cargo pod (there is nowhere else to put it) before adding the doors and I needed about 15 grammes. Which took up a lot of room. I was toying with making it look like cargo but decided I could probably strengthen the ramp and use that to keep the tail up. Its a complete contrast between the two builds. Lots of struggling and bad language with teh Argosy (but its starting to look quite nice now) and the figure painting is all calm and reflective. Very soothing and enjoyable. Alan
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Hi Mike Thats a great idea. Mutual support may be the deciding factor for the Felixtowe kits and I could use the push to make the commitment. I've liked the Roden vehicle kits but the Condor was not one of their best. It was also my first attempt at 1/144 scale which probably didn't help. Thank you so much for the detail about filling gaps. I appreciate the time it must have taken to compile the information. I have ordered some thin plastic card to try next time. The Mr Dissolved Putty shrank considerably and needed several applications. It did sand down nicely though. I think I would have been better off with shaved down plastic card. I am a bit cautious about CA; the fumes tend to bother me if I use it a lot but I have now got some Bob Smith Gold odourless CA and that does seem to be something I can use. I will try it on the next gap. Thank you also for the advice on metallic paints. I really liked the ease of using the Vallejo Metallics and they look quite good. I need to really improve my game with the priming to ensure I get a really smooth surface to work from. It is amazing how much there is to learn in this hobby. So many techniques and I am very grateful that people are so happy to share. Alan
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I opened the box while I was waiting for some glue to set on the Argosy and somehow I started to fiddle with the bits - and here we are off again. I'm trying a few ideas to see if I can make life easier. The weight of the parts makes it hard to get the components to adhere even if you leave the glue to almost set. If I paint the components separately and I'm gluing up the painted parts its really easy to spoil the paintwork; especially with epoxy glue. so I have drilled the neck and hands and added 0.5 mm brass rod which has been epoxied into place in one half of the joint and the fit and position checked satisfactorily for later. A few more cast lines to remove on this one but nothing too bad. A lot more polished metal too and again I would rather polish the kit metal instead of painting it. Based on a suggestion by @Jack12477 I decided to try a mini engraver / polisher and a few wooden shafted cotton buds. With jewellers rouge they made quick work of it and got into the corners well. Everything not polished then got a coat of Mr Metal primer hand painted on The polished parts of the body were masked and a coat of Mig One Shot black primer was air brushed on Next will be the directional white primer to provide a base for the glazes. Thanks for looking in and I hope you enjoy another metal figure. Alan
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The last few days have been spent in a serious tussle with this one. Two related issues really. 1 - She is a serious tail sitter and needs a lot of weight up front. 2 - How to pose the clamshell door open in a reasonably robust fashion. I decided the weight issue could be resolved if I could get the ramp strong enough; then the aircraft would be held up at teh back by the open door. I tried drilling the doors and inserted brass rods to hold them open and was unsuccessful although I did break several of my nice new DSPIEA drill bits. I think they were the same as the ones originally used to drill circuit boards. After a lot of puzzling it occurred to me to replace the very thin plastic struts / actuators in the kit with brass rod and that worked a treat. I drilled into the back of the fuselage a fair way so I could adjust the rods to make sure the ramp pushed the nosewheel back onto the ground. It seems to have succeeded. The doors were a horrible fit as well but that was a relatively minor annoyance Doesn't really show the rods I'll try again. The next task is a gloss coat and the decals. I think I need to add them before the PE makes it very difficult to handle the model. Ooops - after the gear doors and the door hinges. I'm hoping this is the last major structural fight. Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments. Alan
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Lovely story EJ. Thanks. The RAF of the fifties and sixties was a special place. I just read Vampire Boys about the pilots who flew the RAFs first frontline single engine jet. The number of crashes is amazing. One pilot describes losing his brakes on landing, going off the runway and through the perimeter fence, crossing a road and ending up on a traffic island. There was an AA motor cyclist ( remember them!) standing there who walked over to what was left of the cockpit and asked “ Are you a member sir” some great stories in that book, highly recommended. alan
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Well today was supposed to see some progress on the Argosy but first I thought "I'll just touch in the sword handle on this chap" One thing led to another and I spent most of the day playing with the figure. I added the fringes to the flag and the sash. The fringe on the sash is a base of orange red and then gold dry brushed on top. Spurs and belt buckle added and the green stripes on his shirt. I used thin strips of masking tape to get the separation reasonably consistent. This piece was in the bag of bits. I thought it was a bag or pouch of some sort, maybe like a sabretache but on closer examination its actually his spurs on a piece of moulding. I also found a use for these in my Bumper Bag of Brushes Its great for burnishing masking tape down in tight places. I think, touched with beeswax it might also work to move PE bits around. Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan
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Thanks for the story. I have the 1/144 Beverley to start when I'm feeling strong. I gather it is as much a struggle in places as the Argosy but it will be a great compliment to the Argosy. Doing a bit of preliminary reading I gather the whole rear door assemblies could be removed from the Beverley for heavyweight drops; so flying with teh back end completely open. I think I also read that an initial concept had the entire cargo pod detach as the aircraft overflew the destination at about ten feet and it landed on its own wheels. Fun days Alan
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