
king derelict
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Everything posted by king derelict
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I decided some more fiddling was necessary. I wasn't happy with the red stripes on the turban and sashes; they just looked painted on. So I went back and added a darker shade of red at the interface with the yellow and I think it improves things. Still some room for improvement; maybe I should have added something to define the line properly - next time. Unfortunately I see a bit of yellow to tidy up now I also used a tiny bit of putty to build up the wrist which was a bit distorted after the multiple falls and rebuilds. Its a little better. I cut the white metal guidon off the lance and replaced it with a piece of foil which is much better. I added the top of the lance to the figure and, again, due to the shifts in the pose of the figure it doesn't line up too well. It will have to be displayed showing the side view which isn't too bad. Possibly drilling through the hand and using a single piece of brass with the bamboo nodes added would be a better option. There is a second chance. I like this figure and I learnt a lot painting it so I bought a second figure and would like to try again and hopefully do a better job. I will touch up the turban and I think I will call these figures done. I want to complete the Flowers before attempting anything else. I get sidetracked too easily Thanks to everyone for looking in and for the likes and all the helpful comments. Alan
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Thank you very much for the comment and the useful information about the bow fair lead. I’ve subsequently seen it and incorporated it in later builds but wasn’t aware of it back then. The reference book noted above doesn’t show it in some of the line drawings but some illustrations do, including the cover one. They don’t necessarily show the change in railing height. ive tucked this nugget away for use with the other RN destroyers that I have stacked away so many thanks again. alan
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Thank you very much for the suggestions. I have Gators Grip (primarily for PE) but hadn’t thought of it. Like you I like the resilience instead of the brittle ca joints. I’m already thinking of doing another figure so I’ll give it a shot. It’s a lot easier to clean up than epoxy. I also have the MiG ammo version but I like the GG better we may have been somewhat at cross purposes too. I was also thinking about the best way to fix the figure to the painting base given its significant weight compared to a plastic figure. Thus the contact adhesive comment. The weight may be a bit much for gators grip. So far the heavyweight double sided tape is holding up. Alan
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Thank you Mike. I revisited your Shimakaze build log. I enjoyed reading it at the time and the model and seascape are beautiful. I think the way the blues of the sea work to give an impression of depth is fantastic. I am rereading and making notes of the techniques alan
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Thank EG. The balance hadn’t occurred to me but you are correct, it will help enormously. Many thanks. im thinking maybe a contact adhesive might also be worth trying to hold the figure on the base. Anything that doesn’t dry hard and then prone to cracking off. pennant ( or guidon possibly) is about to be cut off Thanks for the advice as always alan
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Arggh - It happened again. Adding the last details to the Yellow Boy and the figure detatched from the painting base and landed hard on the work bench. Head, arms and base all separated again. I don't know if its the plastic pill container top that is the problem. maybe I should have roughed it up to key the glue. I used CA, Gorilla Glue and two part epoxy all with dubious results and an unexpected failure. This time I tried some heavy duty adhesive tape which I have used to secure larger ship models to a working base. Amazon.com: EZlifego Double Sided Tape Heavy Duty, Extra Large Nano Double Sided Adhesive Tape, Clear Mounting Tape Picture Hanging Adhesive Strips,Removable Wall Tape Sticky Poster Tape Decor Carpet Tape(9.85FT) : Office Products It is very tenacious and so far its holding up. I'm hoping in the event of a failure the tape will peel away rather than break away giving me a chance to save the situation. So once again the figure was reassembled and the details on the turban, sash and cummerbund added. I lightly sketched the areas to paint with a pencil which helped. The base was painted with Mig Sand and the rocks picked out. The sword was painted and added. One thing I have learnt (the hard way) is that these white metal figures are heavy. This is why the problem with fixing them to the base is such a headache but it also means that even details like the sword have weight and need to be supported well during the period that the glue is drying. Ask me how I know! I delved into my Woodlands Scenic supplies and added some burnt grass to adda little more interest to the base. The final touch was to add some dry brushed sand colour to the daffadars boots as this is not aimed at being a parade figure but more regular service. Generally, I am happy with the figure, the face came out quite well and the shading worked out. It would have been better f it hadn't been broken and reassembled so much. There are some minor shifts in the assembly which detract a bit from the final result. I think this one was harder than Nabopolassar; there are less guides in the scuplt to provide boundaries for the paint colours. So I am deliberating one last element of the model. The kit provides a lance in two parts for the figure to hold. At the start of the assembly I drilled the hands to hold the upper section but I am nervous about adding it. Its the weight problem again and bracing it while it dries. I think there are three options 1 - Go ahead and see what happens. Maybe use a third hand type of clamp to hold it while it dries 2 - Ignore the top section and let the figure be holding a lathi - a bamboo rod. 3 - Remove the pennant from the lance (its a significant part of the weight) and add one made of foil. Thanks for looking in, the likes and the comments Alan
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Thank you very much OC. He will be going back home shortly. My friend is a professor of Ancient History at Barcelona University and lives in Girona (and knows the shop). She did her post doctorate work on Nabopolassar so hopefully she will enjoy the figure. The sword is painted but I think it will be sent as a separate item and she can add it on arrival. I think it is too delicate to trust to the postal services Alan
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Thank you very much Jack for the very kind words. I used to paint the Airfix figures for wargames as a teenager and lusted after the 54mm Historex models but could never afford one back then. This is my very first attempt at 54mm white metal figures and I enjoyed it so much that I want to do more. I think 75% of the credit goes to Art Girona for producing such an excellent figure. The directional black / white priming and glazing colours demonstrated by Night Shift was a great help too. Alan
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Thank you Andrew. I dived over to the Trial log and I now want to go back and read it from the beginning. Thats a beautiful model you have created; it tempts me to try a wooden ship but I worry about my innate inability to cut or sand at right angles . I was sorry to read about your health problems but I'm glad you got great medical care and wish you all the best for a full recovery. hopefully the Great British Summer has arrived and provides you with plenty of opportunities to enjoy it. I'll be finishing off the miniature figure in the next few days and picking up the Flowers. I think Spiraea will go on the sea base. Zinnia will be displayed on a base. Alan
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Thanks OC. The Life Color paints are a useful addition. The IBG Hunt destroyers and the Mirage Flower corvettes all use variations of the three colour camouflage using the colours in the two Life Color RN WW2 sets.Thanks again Alan
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Thank you Jack. I touched up the small bleeds past the masks with a brush and the paint went on very nicely. Onto the fun stuff now. Alan
- 97 replies
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