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Tim Moore

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Everything posted by Tim Moore

  1. Tim Moore
    Done...sewed the lacing through the stays, seemed the simplest approach rather than knots. Should look ok once I tighten it up and a drop of glue on the joints.
  2. Tim Moore
    Fun with the Bounty rigging...there is supposed to be a zigzag lacing between the two stays on the mainmast...tried two times to tie a zigzag pattern using 0.15mm thread between the two 0.80mm stays using simple knots...very difficult to get it looking consistent so pulled it all back off for now. There’s got to be a clever way to do this - if anyone has done it and has a method please let me know.
  3. Tim Moore
    Yay the first line of real rigging is aboard! Foremast stay. Have to be honest, wouldn’t mind subcontracting a few hundred hours of Bounty rigging to some elves.
  4. Tim Moore
    So the masts are all fitted and now finally installed with all the block and tackle attached. Nothing too earth shattering to report as the work is sort of repetitive. The most time consuming task hasbeen deciphering the AL mast drawing. I create a lead for the blocks by tying the block in a basic square knot, twisting the open leads a few times and rubbing a little CA on the twist before tying off the blocks to the mast. I rubbed the blocks with a little chestnut stain to make them look a little more in keeping with the rest of the ship’s patina. Got some of those cheap opthalmic scissors on amazon to snip thread, and I have to say they are going to be invaluable for the rigging, much better than the razor blade or nail clippers I had been using. Now on to some of the fixed rigging and ratlines - I’m going to fashion and install the yards and booms later.
  5. Tim Moore
    James: just wanted to say thanks for the work you do in your reviews of this and other kits - your consistent and straightforward approach is exceedingly helpful.
  6. Tim Moore
    Bonehead move while finishing the masts...I had finished the foremast some time ago and forgot I used an acrylic satin finish since I was working inside the house...just finished the main and mizzenmast and forgot about that, and used my usual oil based finish. The oil deepens the walnut tone so end result was the foremast was way lighter than the others. looked like completely different wood. Thought about sanding it all down and starting over but I mixed a few drops of ebony+chestnut stain I had lying around with some of the oil varnish and applied it over the foremast and it seems to have matched it up with the others so the difference isnt noticeable. 5 minute job as opposed to hours which is sort of my strategic approach to ship modeling and life in general. Perfect is the enemy of good.
  7. Tim Moore
    Thanks for all the likes...it’s about this time on a build that I start thinking about my next one...Right now I’m thinking about something at 1:35 scale like the Amati America’s cup yacht Endeavour, or perhaps a fishing or working boat like a tug or icebreaker at similar larger scale if there is anything out there. Never done an Amati, don’t know about their plan quality as compared to AL? Also not sure where I can get their kits up here. I usually support local, but honestly the Canadian hobby shops seem ridiculously overpriced. I’ve also always wanted to do the 1:200 HMS Hood given the history of that I’ll fated battleship. Having seen Yves fabulous rendition of the U Boat going on here though I’m not sure I can live up to the challenge of plastic and the bar he’s set. Don’t know about you but typically I like to alternate between completely different types and vintages of ships in my builds.
  8. Tim Moore
    Foremast and main complete, working on the mizzenmast. No real issues, just a bit repetitive. Thankfully they are all true and in line above deck and fitted nicely through those multiple layers of holes through the lower decks. Think my goal is to fabricate, finish and attach all the paraphernalia to the masts and all the yards etc, this winter. I’m working on construction up north this spring for a few months then I’ll pick up with the rigging after the summer. At least that’s my plan.
  9. Tim Moore
    Hi Jeff - Hope you enjoy that build. I’m presently working on a cut away Bounty myself and have finished a number of wooden ships and boats. Some specialty tools I’ve tried but find I never use much. Others are really helpful. That bulb thing for nailing you mention I tried using once but now gathers dust in my toolbox (I just pre drill and use my little hammer). You will probably find out what works best for you through trial and error like me. The picture shows all the basic tools I have come to use all the time and which work really well for me. They always seem to be front and centre on my work table and have been invaluable to me over the years for cutting, shaping and fashioning wooden boat models.
  10. Tim Moore
    Thanks Stuglo. Working on the masts, which are substantial little projects on this Bounty. This is my rendition of the foremast assembly before some final trimming, sanding and staining/finishing, after which I will attach all the associated doodads. Nautical term. The instructions peter out rather abruptly in this kit, almost like they ran out of gas or just lost interest down at Artesania Latina HQ. There is a ludicrously detailed and unnecessary explanation about how to fashion the grating, then ‘good luck finishing’ more or less. Doesn’t really matter since a good set of plans are what’s essential.
  11. Tim Moore
    Bit of a slowdown on the shipbuilding front owing to a back injury while building that cottage. Hard to concentrate on tiny details with the sciatica raging down my leg. Finished the bowsprit and now working on the foremast assembly. A bit cranky at the moment over trying to determine the correct form of the various wood parts that go into parts of the masts. A 3D drawing or picture of the base structure prior to rigging would help with some of the educated guesswork. But that’s probably just the leg talking. Just dry fitted the foremast on the ship and thankfully it fits perfectly through all the decks and into the slot in the keel. Just dumb luck really, I should have checked this much earlier during assembly with the 10mm dowel in case anything was out of alignment.
  12. Tim Moore
    Had a few days at the cottage construction project, now back with the Bounty. Been perusing the mast and rigging details. They’d be relatively straightforward for Mr. Spock of the enterprise but to me they look about as easy to follow as the wiring diagram for a nuclear control room. Fitted the bowsprit and its apparatus without any real trouble. Followed my usual theme of spar varnish on the walnut, with the centre section stained ebony. Haha Now that I see it in place I think that damn ball at the top of the spike just looks way too big - Think I need to replace that. On to masts and spars.
  13. Tim Moore
    Hi Mike. That colour is going to look sweet with the mahogany when you get the Typhoon finished - used a similar colour below the waterline when I did my Miss Severn, thought it risky at the time but really liked the contrast in finished product.
  14. Tim Moore
    First time I’ve had the pleasure of using a drill press to taper the masts, bowsprit etc. Man it sure makes it fast and easy. I used a step drill bit from my Dremel for the lower spindle, drilled a hole same size as bit shank in a piece of wood and clamped to the drill press table. Bit of oil on the shank. Created a shallow hole in the dowel to seat the spindle and raised the table so it is set. Drill on low speed and a couple of sanding blocks with medium paper and it’s done less than a minute, ready for final fine sanding etc by hand.
  15. Tim Moore
    Cool! Perfection. It is such a pleasure to see your craftsmanship, and how you execute every detail.
  16. Tim Moore
    Thanks Mark! and everyone giving the thumbs up. So the base Bounty is now all finished, except for a little detail trim painting fore and aft that I’ll take care of when I get a chance to pick up a few paint colours. Pretty nice kit when all is said and done. Now it’s on to the bowsprit and mast assemblies. Going to need my drill to do the tapering I guess, which stupidly is still up at that cottage so may be a slight delay. Unless I can think of someone with a lathe or drill press can drop in on.
  17. Tim Moore
    Deadeye assemblies finished, and all the provisions are in the hold. I dipped the barrels in stain and highlighted the hoops using a graphite pencil for the smaller barrels and marker for the larger ones, then hand rubbed them with a cloth.
  18. Tim Moore
    Could have used some rigging building that cottage actually, one end of it is perched 40 feet over the edge of a cliff. Just finishing installing the dead eyes on the respective channels. The 1mm wire supposedly used for the chain plates in this kit is really too thick to work so I used some thinner wire, and an eyebolt instead of wire for the upper stiffening links. I’ll apply gunmetal to the lot after it’s done as with all the other brass.
  19. Tim Moore
    Heading back into the workshop after a long hiatus - have been busy over many months building a cottage for my brother in the north here, looking forward to getting back to finishing the Bounty over the winter. First step is to reacquaint myself with the kit and where the heck I left off. Hope my skills haven’t left me and that I don’t make a hash of the completion.
  20. Tim Moore
    Hi Snow in Darwin - I picked mine up at Michaels, a large craft store chain in US and Canada. In the jewellery section.
  21. Tim Moore
    The good thing about these particular ones is the 'needle' is very bendy so you can easily use them in tight spaces, as compared to a straight needle. It's basically two interwoven fine wires. The eye grips the thread at the end so it never comes out when you pull it through the block. Here's a closer shot.
  22. Tim Moore
    Just tried out one of these collapsable eye needles to use for rigging - wow they are genius and work incredibly well. No more drilling out holes or struggling to find a tiny hole and push finicky thread through blocks. This will cut the $&!&#$@&$! rigging time considerably.
  23. Tim Moore
    Completed my interpretation of the launch and the jolly boat, trial run on setting them up on the deck before I tie them down. A lot going on on this model - I have to say you get a lot of boat for the money with this particular kit.
  24. Tim Moore
    Thanks Mark. The shipwright was laid up for a while after getting a wisdom tooth removed, which didn't go well. Back to constructing the Bounty's launch and jolly boat. Nice little mini models actually. Rather than pinning the hull planks as suggested which I think could be a mess at this scale, I instead drilled the nailing pattern on the jolly boat using a 1/32" bit, pasted the hull with walnut wood filler and sanded. Think I'll maybe paint the launch and leave the jolly boat more au natural. Still a bunch more to do on these though before finishing.
  25. Tim Moore
    The bulk of the bounty up to the masts and rigging stage is now done, except for the launch and jolly boat which are to be stacked on the deck. Building the mini model of the launch. Only enough 1.5mm basswood in the kit for planking one side so I'm using 1mm material below the top plank, since there's lots of that left. The plans call for only planking one side of the launch, same as the bounty herself, but I'm not doing that. I placed the stem and keel first before planking, same as the ship, since I prefer that approach.

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