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Tim Moore

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Everything posted by Tim Moore

  1. Tim Moore
    Thanks Bob and Jean-Paul! Just starting the deck. The deck wood is an odd sort of beige, so I brushed it with some of the iron acetate solution which I only let steep for 24 hours. It gives the wood a warm grey patina which I think should be right for a fishing boat. I’m in agreement with PJG and using thread to separate the planks slightly, rather than the wood strips provided in the kit.
  2. Tim Moore
    Airbrushed a shadow line in a rust colour just below the white band to suggest that part of the hull that would often sit above the waterline and be less weathered by the sea. Satin spray finish on the hull to protect it. Now I can get going on the deck.
  3. Tim Moore
    Thanks PJ...my wife is the potter....I use her studio here for painting because it is heated and attached to house and has a sink etc for cleanup. Your Fifie diorama is a museum piece. I’m pulling for the fish to show up in the final product.
  4. Tim Moore
    It seems to chemically change the wood so there really isn’t anything to rub off I don’t think. But I will definitely put a clear coat on the whole thing, it will give it more depth and look more finished. Another option is just to buff it which usually gives a very soft sheen.
  5. Tim Moore
    Thanks Jean-Paul and G.L...Ebonizing is a piece of cake once you’ve prepared the two necessary solutions. It is accomplished by the reaction between iron acetate and tannin. For the acetate I submerge a clump of fine raw prewashed steel wool in a plastic container containing 10% (double strength) cleaning vinegar. Put holes in lid for offgassing and leave for a week and then filter using a coffee filter. For the tannin I steeped a dozen tea bags in a cup or so of water to make ridiculously strong tea. The tannin solution is the key to the process. When you’ve concocted these two witches’ brews paint the wood with the tannin solution first, let soak in for a few minutes, then paint on the acetate. Let that dry, and then apply the tannin solution again and your wood will magically be dead black and ready for any finish.
  6. Tim Moore
    Installed all the timber heads and gunwale. Decided on painting the bulwarks white just because that’s what I usually see on fishing boats. A little harder to do well since white shows up every defect on an assembly. Laid on the basic hull colours, and may do some weathering with the airbrush before applying a final finish. The walnut hull seemed too nice to completely paint over so I’ve used a rust coloured stain for the underwater, which lets the grain and planking come through, and for the upper I used an ebonizing technique which transforms wood to a really deep black without hiding the texture of the planks. Not sure it really comes through in the pictures but i think it has been pretty successful. If anyone wants particulars on how this is done I can provide details on the technique I use, after some trial and error in the past.
  7. Tim Moore
    Unbelievable. Every aspect so well done. A treat to see your creative approach and masterful execution.
  8. Tim Moore
    I agree. You’re selling yourself short with your score - great looking effort.
  9. Tim Moore
    Thanks Ras - I appreciate the comments; you are a real gentleman for saying them. Nice to hear from a fellow builder also working on the Fifie - yours is really coming along as well. I scratch built the door and detailed it with a bit of paint and graphite pencil. The North Sea fish chart and the map are paper prints I tacked on. I’m planning on putting a few more things down there but for now I’m concentrating on finishing the hull.
  10. Tim Moore
    With the rubbing strakes on, Fifie’s basic hull is finished and ready for painting. Think I’ll fashion the rudder next so that I can paint everything in one go, before I start on the deck.
  11. Tim Moore
    The rope I used was 0.15mm for most of the running rigging, halyards etc., 0.25mm for ratlines, 0.5mm for shrouds and the major standing rigging. Most of the blocks are 4mm. There are a few larger 5mm blocks attached to the masts. I darkened the blocks and deadeyes with a chestnut stain.
  12. Tim Moore
    And the planking is done. The frame is nice and sturdy to work on, no real issues with second layer just a little finish sanding and then on to some more interesting bits. The walnut is pretty nice seems a shame to cover it all with paint so I’m thinking about my finishing strategy. Kind of looks like a stubby fat cedar strip canoe at the moment.
  13. Tim Moore
    I used aluminium because the right sizes were available. it is also really easy to slice with a Dremel and file into decent rings, and drill holes into for the brass posts.
  14. Tim Moore
    I used CA (thick superglue) to connect the pieces, and painted it all gunmetal after with a small brush. If the parts were all brass I would probably have used the brass blacking solution before assembly.
  15. Tim Moore
    Hi Dave - you may have seen this on my build log, but had same issue with mine - this is how I resolved it with sections of aluminium tube and wire. Blackened it all after install. Your Bounty is coming along and looking very good! Tim
  16. Tim Moore
    Hi Trond - I would recommend you always use a matt, or satin varnish, never gloss or semi gloss. For this Bounty I used satin varnish, would probably have preferred if it was slightly flatter but it’s what I had. My Endeavour is basically raw wood which many experts prefer. A true matte varnish gives a similar look. The helmsman spar type varnish I used has a warmer, slight amber tint which I actually don’t mind for this application. The varathane line and many other polyurethanes don’t have any tint so the result is colder. Nice to chat with someone from Norway!
  17. Tim Moore
    There are a couple of cradles between the two boats on my Bounty, and each is separately lashed down with two ropes.
  18. Tim Moore
  19. Tim Moore
    A 1mm trim piece is placed on both sides of the keel, which creates a border for the final planks to finish flush against. This eliminates any need for fussing with a groove (rabbet) in the false keel. The underplanking only needs to be feathered to the false keel before placing the trims. The under planking didn't need much in the way of sanding or filling, so I can start the finish planking as soon as I can get back in the cabin.
  20. Tim Moore
    Ahhh rough planking....the sausage making component of model shipbuilding. The process can be pretty messy and bits of it can sometimes look like a dogs breakfast, but you somehow end up with something pretty tasty at the end.
  21. Tim Moore
    Thanks Yves.... base planking in progress. The boat has a bigger belly than it looks so there’s a lot of it. Nice quality lime wood. I was thinking of just doing the one planking, but there is such a lovely pile of walnut that it seems wrong not to use it.
  22. Tim Moore
    The top two planks on this model shouldn’t be glued to the mdf frame extensions above the false deck, because those extensions eventually come off. I fixed the second plank first, the bottom of which can be glued to the false deck, and then edge glued the upper plank above it. I extended these first two planks with a scarf joint so that they are continuous. The rest can have joints on the frames (since the boat is longer than the planking material). Would be better to have a wider 16mm plank of some description to use in place of common planking for these two, but this should be ok when all is said and done.
  23. Tim Moore
    Haha thanks Richard. I’m happy you recognized the grubby use stains!
  24. Tim Moore
  25. Tim Moore
    I was looking for something different after the long haul voyage with the Bounty, and picked up this Scottish motor fishing vessel from Amati last year. It’s a beautiful kit that looks very good quality. Seems a good choice for a first build given the clarity of the plans and instruction, and anybody else. I’m not entirely sure where I’ll go with it in terms of the overall interpretation but we will see. The basic frame goes up straight, fast and trouble free because of the quality of the design and fabrication. There’s a large hatch area in the centre of the vessel that I might leave at least partially open, so I’ve built a simple enclosure under spanning a couple of frames. I’m imagining this will eventually house a pile of fish crates, nets and other fishing paraphernalia. I’ve incorporated a door to the forward cabins and rear hatch to what would presumably be the motor areas, but not detailing anything outside the hold area as it won’t really be visible. Easier to install and finish the enclosure now in pieces while the frames are still open. The walls are planking on solid panels, with a simple deck floor on sleepers over the mdf base to level it up. Enough goofing around with this, time to do the planking...

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