GrandpaPhil
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Baker, Thank you very much! I will use the same method that I used for the Prince de Neufchatel. I essentially just cut the pieces out like normal, just out of card, and then double layer the heavier pieces, like the sides. It worked pretty well. This time I am going to carve the cannons from wood and then use thin pieces of card for the banding.
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I bought the e-book of Alexander Stilwell’s HMS Revenge tonight. An excerpt from it regarding the typical armament: So, I have been hunting down photos of the above weapons for later conversion to scale drawings. They will be carved out of dowel rods. These two pictures will be my models for carriages:
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The first round of parts are drying under glass for the night: I learned that trick on this forum. I used Mont Marte Glue.
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All bulkheads are now cut out and here is the test fit: Once I laminate everything together, I am going to make and install gratings, and “plank”/paint the orlop deck. It will not be visible, but the gratings will add structural integrity.
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All bulkheads are rough cut and I’m test fitting as I finish cutting out all bulkhead layers: When I build that other ironclad (I am constantly learning and adapting in this hobby), I am going to cut my bulkheads down to the second gundeck and plan to put the first false deck there, slotted in like this one. However, I am going to put a false orlop deck in as well, for structural integrity.
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Congratulations on ten years! Best of luck for the next ten!
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Very nice!
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Looking good!
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Getting there: So far, so good.
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Thank you both! This will be a fun build! I am enjoying it immensely!
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Anyone out there working on a card model?
GrandpaPhil replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
I just started another card model. I am building the Revenge in 1/64 scale from Victory Models plans. -
Making progress:
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Well done! Looking forward to seeing your next build! To minimize the effects of a tremor, brace your arm or wrist on a solid surface.
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Build whatever you feel comfortable with. Ensure it is a subject that you like and are interested in and will stay interested in. Zu Monfeld recommends something like a cog for a starter model. I recommend a smaller boat or ship like a jolly boat kit, a cutter, a schooner or a brig. You will find out what you like pretty quickly. Never be afraid to try a new type of model. But, as has been said earlier, it is best to build them one at a time. And, case in point with Mark’s comment, I am one of the people with a semi-dead Victory build. I started it six years ago. Finishing it would not be particularly difficult at this point, I just do not have the interest. It still needs close to a year to finish and I discovered that my ship model building interests lie elsewhere. It will most likely be resurrected at some point, but not for a long while.
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Nicely done!
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Welcome!
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Making progress: I am cutting the basic shape out and notching everything I can get to with scissors and then finalizing with a scalpel. It is working much better than just by scalpel alone. This heavy card eats scalpel blades. I was changing blades every other part. Since starting with scissors, I have gotten five or six parts so far, this blade.
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Very nice!
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Thank you both very much! Just remember, a 6 pack of poster board is only around $5 at Walmart! I built my first card ship out of one of those. It worked supremely well. If it doesn’t work out, and the model goes in the bin, you’re not out much. I’ve actually used a failed card model to light a bonfire before. Ab Hoving made an excellent card scratch build tutorial on this forum: It is an excellent read! I strongly recommend it! It made me realize that scratch building a ship out of card was actually doable. My only card ship kits have been the Solferino and the started Mercury. I am personally of the opinion that building a card model ship from scratch is actually easier than building one from a kit.
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I am accumulating a pile of parts: The keel pieces are about 22 inches long. The last couple models took between 8 and 10 hours to make the bulkheads, including tracing, scaling and copying. Once I get the frame up and start looking at putting in decks, I need to get the inboard profile out and start plotting out gunport frames, sills and interior planking. I have a book in my Amazon cart about the Elizabethan Navy. I need to get a snapshot of the load-out of the Revenge so I can plan out the cannons. From the pictures I have seen, these look like they will be culverins, which will be interesting to make. I made a 15th century siege gun once, in 28mm scale from a picture I found in a book. I think the method I used there will be just fine (carve barrel and apply banding). I will need to find drawings of them in the appropriate caliber to rescale.
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I have fun with building like this. The nice thing about card models is that the tooling is pretty simple, although I could build a wood model with them. I have a scalpel, a razor saw, a coping saw and a pin-vise for making most parts. For metal working, I have a couple pairs of needle nose pliers and diagonal cutters. I found a good soldering station last year in a wholesale lot that I bought. For drawing and parts setup, I have a couple rulers, scales, a tee, a couple triangles and the usual sets of drafting shapes. And, of course, tweezers, long handled and short. I have some power tools, like a scroll saw, drill and a Dremel that I have picked up over the years, but I don’t really use them for model making. The crafting of the parts is supremely relaxing to me. I trace the parts out by hand for the same reason. Most of this model is being built with stuff I already have. I am $95 into this project so far. That’s $50 for the plans, $15 for a pack of 60 glue sticks for all the parts and $30 for the base that I bought for the Victory that I am using on this project. Space-wise, I have my own room in the house for model building anyway, with a desk for building models, and a multipurpose table that I usually use as a plans table.
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I have all bulkheads, the center keel, the lower deck and the transom glued down: I have three of those cards full of parts. The cards are 1mm thick and measure 24 inches by 32 inches.
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