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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Thank you very much, Patrick! All touch ups are done and the model is sealed: The bitt on the poop deck and the stern boom is in place: Working on the Admiral’s walk bulwark now.
  2. There is a section dedicated to paint and finishing questions here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/
  3. Thank you both very much for the information. I am planning on building the 17th Century Dutch 80-gun warship De Zeven Provincien next and am looking at options for making the carvings.
  4. The stern gallery is glued down! This is the first set of stern carvings that I have ever made for a model. I am sure that I will get much better over time, but for a first attempt, I am happy with these carvings.
  5. The carving is carved: Using superglue to shore up the card so it could be carved worked well. It added a few difficulties but I think that I could figure them out with time. I will use the same technique with the bow scrollwork. The scrollwork, the figurehead and two heads that go on bitts are all the carvings I have remaining for this build. Next up is painting the stern carvings. I’ll probably paint the stern window frames and stern/quarter badges at the same time. About the time that I install the primary stern carving, I will have to do all paint touch ups on the rest of the model and then seal/highlight the model.
  6. Most of the stern carving is either carved or rough cut. The top and bottom pieces of the shield are soaked in superglue like I learned about from some of the other card modelers. I will carve those in the nearish future. I am not even going to try carving that middle piece. I am going to treat it like a paint by number and very carefully paint it. I also discovered that I broke the back part of the dragon’s tail off and lost it, so I’m making another one out of basswood. Soon, I will be doing a lot of painting. Then I will glue this all to the stern.
  7. The hard part is done: Time to make the shield, the crown and the scroll. Then paint everything and assemble it.
  8. The other leg of the dragon is an acceptable fit: It is time to glue the leg to the carving board and finish it.
  9. The other leg test fits well: It is out of 1/8” basswood. I am going to buy a few sheets of better wood for carving the carvings on my next build. The cedar seems to be better for detail work, but the cedar that I have is nearly 20 years old and has gotten brittle. I am thinking either cherry or cedar. Now to glue down the leg on a carving board and finish it.
  10. Does cherry carve well and hold detail well? Bearing in mind that I paint everything.
  11. Both the main parts of the lion and the dragon are carved out: They look better in person. You can’t really see the relief portion of the bas reliefs in the picture.
  12. Thank you very much: The Red Dragon of Wales is rough carved out and glued to the carving board. The Gold Lion of England is nearly roughed out, but drying again.
  13. Most of my really good models are in the 3’ to 4’ range, but my ships are the centerpieces of my decor.
  14. The Kirsch book is excellent and it has excellent drawings of an early 17th century galleon, enough to build a model. Golden Hind was 16th Century. The Victory Models plan set of the Revenge, a race-built galleon and a contemporary of the Golden Hind is an excellent plan set. Amati of Italy has a set of plans for the Mayflower of 1620, and the HMS Lyon of 1635.
  15. I agree with the idea for a model of the Great Eastern. I would personally like to see a kit of the US ships of the line from the 1st half of the 19th Century, or the US frigates from the War of 1812.
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