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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. I fielded wheeled carriages on mine. Chapelle’s “The Search for Speed Under Sail” showed them. Here’s the link to my build log, which shows my sources:
  2. I have made 2 of the 75mm guns and I am building them completely. I am going to display the gun emplacements with the blast doors open instead of just having the barrels sticking out of the casemates. They are very labor intensive, especially at this scale, but they look good. Many of the parts are between 1-1.5mm that you cut, fold, roll and assemble. It’s a good challenge. I am learning and having fun with this one.
  3. The bottom of the Oryol is now painted and sealed. The props are also painted and sealed in addition to being glued to the ship. The cradle is now painted, sealed and permanently glued to the bottom of the ship. The first armor band is also glued on. Next up are the bow sections of armor, with another step. After that, I’m going to need to make all the 75mm guns and install them in their proper locations. This is all new to me, as I’ve never built a modernish card ship before. The only other predreadnought that I have built was the Olympia, which had brass gun barrels sticking out of the casemate. I have heard others saying that card guns, if you do the full thing, are very labor intensive and quite the nuisance. I’ll let you know my opinion after I make 20 of them after I install the bow armor sections.
  4. Thank you very much! I saved these. I have the Mikasa and a couple ironclads in my stash so these will be very useful.
  5. The lower hull is now assembled and ready to paint: The props are assembled too: I’m going to paint them also.
  6. The Oryol is sitting in its cradle now: Working on the fittings for the lower hull before I seal and paint everything below the waterline. I’ll paint the cradle at the same time and then glue the ship to it.
  7. The last time I planked a wood hull (a long time ago) I used a knife and it worked well for me. Some of the ship modeling books recommend using a modeler’s plane. It’s up to you. You could always try both and see what works for you.
  8. Here’s the cradle: I modified the end pieces to fit the Oryol. It still needs painted, and will be painted a dark brown before being glued. I’m going to go with gloss black, like I did Solferino for the actual base. I like gluing my models to their bases for structural integrity reasons.
  9. Glen, The Constitution is looking good! A set of ratlines usually takes me a week or two on a warship. I may or may not have been known to take a week of vacation specifically for tying ratlines, lol.
  10. Welcome!
  11. Also, I feathered out the remaining lumps in the hull. There’s glue drying on the bottom where I made those repairs, so I’ll seal again tomorrow.
  12. I used my light table for the first time tonight: I traced the cradle from my Orel Tsarevich. The Borodino-class battleships were direct derivatives of the Tsarevich so it stands to reason that they probably shared a similar hull shape. If not, I have a scalpel to reshape the cradles, lol. They are laid out on basswood from a basswood value pack that I got a while back.
  13. Making progress on the lower hull: I still need to make a couple minor repairs then I’ll add the rest of the lower hull fittings and paint everything below the waterline. I really regret not doing this on Solferino so I’m not making that mistake again.
  14. I really liked their kit of the Sultana. It’s a great intro to a lot of skill sets that you will use a lot of later on, and a good step up from the smaller boats.
  15. Thank you very much, OC! The lower hull is on: I filled the gaps so I can sand with some 220 grit sandpaper, seal and paint. The instructions are pretty vague and assume that you’ve done this before. They recommend not adding the bilges at this point, but don’t say when to, so I’m going to fully assemble the hull below the waterline and paint everything. I am also going to make a permanent cradle prior to adding the props and disassemble the temporary cradle. The cradle will be glued to the hull like I have done before to assist in handling the model. At that point I’ll also start prepping the actual base and move back above the waterline.
  16. Welcome!
  17. The decks are on: The lower hull covering is progressing: Those strips that Orel recommends putting on the two upper faux decks are working wonders for ensuring that there is plenty to glue to. They will also help with the appearance of armor bands later on. I adjusted my temporary stand to allow for the skin of the hull. I’ll make an actual cradle and permanently mount it to the base after I finish the lower hull fittings, which will be after I finish completely covering the hull, including the upper hull.
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