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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. GrandpaPhil
    The model is painted and sealed: The base is also made. It is time to add the decals and paint the figure. Then I’ll seal the model again and figure out how I’m attaching the upper wing, lol.
  2. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome!
  3. GrandpaPhil
    One very roughed out base coated six color Western Front camouflage scheme: The next time I work on it I’ll touch everything up and do all the detail painting. Then everything’s getting sealed and decals are getting added. Then everything gets sealed again before I add the struts and the windscreen. After that I’ll add that top wing and rig the model!
  4. GrandpaPhil
    Very nicely done!
  5. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome!
  6. GrandpaPhil
    I’m building a second Eddie Rickenbacker diorama for another friend of mine. This time I am building Captain Rickenbacker’s Spad XIII, with which he got the majority of his kills. A few notes about the kit. This one has been a completely different experience than the Nieuport. That one went together relatively well, except for the top wing. This model, on the other hand, has been a stark lesson in adapt and overcome. I am over 40 hours into this one and have just finished assembling/building the subassemblies, and priming the majority of the model black. I painted the interior but ended up cutting most of the engine out to fit the top piece of the fuselage on the model: I had the same problems that Modeller Masa did with parts fitting. I actually deliberately broke the top piece of the fuselage to make it fit and then glued it together in place, after unwarping it failed. The axles and some of the piping is made of wire and straight pins because the original plastic pieces were too short or made wrong. When I get to the plastic struts, they will have steel pins put in them to attach the top wing to the bottom wing (lesson from the Nieuport). However, the hard part is done now. It is time to paint the model after everything dries black overnight.
  7. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome!
  8. GrandpaPhil
    Glen, Welcome and thank you very much! Veszett, Thank you very much! That was extremely helpful! One set of ladders: All ladders going down are my first step and then I’ll start in on the rest of the deck fittings, working from fore to aft!
  9. GrandpaPhil
    Gromyk Yuriy (Grom) designed the kit. He did a wonderful job of it. Everything fits perfectly. I am assuming that he intended for this to be built by someone who already knows the ropes of predreadnought building. I’m figuring it out as I go. It’s a really nice kit, it’s just definitely for an advanced level modeler. I’m having a lot of fun with it, it’s just giving me a run for my money. I’m glad that I have a high tolerance for ambiguity, lol, to figure out where everything goes and how it goes together.
  10. GrandpaPhil
    OC, Indeed it does! This is the part where these models get fun! The 75mm batteries and the torpedo tubes are installed: The instructions for this model are very generic and are more concerned with the general building order. They are not particularly detailed. So, I’m ad libbing a bit and working the deck fittings as I build upwards. I’m going to work forward to aft and then up, much like I would on a sailing vessel. I’ll add the outboard railings, boarding ladders and the davits as the last thing prior to masting the ship.
  11. GrandpaPhil
    That looks amazing!
  12. GrandpaPhil
    Very nicely done!
  13. GrandpaPhil
    Alan, Thank you very much! I have learned so much from everyone on this forum! The hull is completely closed up and everything is edge painted now: The Oryol is now at the point where it is becoming difficult to tell that this is a card kit from looking at it. The next steps are to seal the model, add the 75mm guns and then make the fore and aft torpedo tubes.
  14. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome!
  15. GrandpaPhil
    Congratulations on the finish! Very well done!
  16. GrandpaPhil
    Excellently done!
  17. GrandpaPhil
    Happy Thanksgiving to you too! Wire and toothpicks are your friends for making small masts and spars! The stiff wire that comes in balsa model plane kits for landing gears is perfect for that. Toothpicks and bamboo kitchen skewers can be shaved down to very thin diameters and are some of my go to sources for masts and spars.
  18. GrandpaPhil
    The hull is mostly closed up now: I made the executive decision to keep the blast doors closed and just have the 75mm gun barrels sticking out. This thing is going to have enough fragile pieces sticking out of the hull without adding more points of failure. Also, a battleship to me is an armored behemoth, and keeping the blast doors closed on the casemates would look better to me. I still need to put the rest of the blast doors on the casemates, install the anchor shelves, and then I have a lot of tidying up and paint work to do before I install the 75mm gun barrels.
  19. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome and Happy Thanksgiving! I’m a few states away from you and I get most of my stuff from Ages of Sails and Cornwall Model Boats. They both have excellent selections and pricing. Ages of Sails ships domestically for free on orders over $150. Sometimes, Cornwall is slightly cheaper even with added shipping costs. Also, Cornwall carries a lot more in the way of plans if you’re into scratch building. Seawatch books is really neat if you’re into scratch building. If you like card models, I strongly recommend Seahorse Models out of Poland. All of them are awesome to work with!
  20. GrandpaPhil
    Welcome! The flag is the wrong one for the War of 1812, but it looks like the privateer Prince de Neufchatel or a similar vessel based on armament, deck configuration, sweep port and gunport location and mast/sail configuration. It could very well be the old 1/64 Model Shipways kit based on the dimensions. Mine is 1/72 and is approximately 33” long. Enlarged to 1/64 the model would be about the size of yours. Here’s mine for comparison:
  21. GrandpaPhil
    Working on closing up the upper hull: The upper armor strips have been fitting relatively well. Due to the whaleback shape of the hull, a lot of preshaping has been required to get the pieces to accept the curvature of the hull. I’ll start working on the casemates along with installing the 75mm guns next time!
  22. GrandpaPhil
    Steve, Thank you very much! The front armor pieces had multiple conflicting compound curves around the bow area that didn’t go quite right. I decided to trim that up a bit and fix some problem areas as well as I could. One of those included the shield emblem on the bow that takes the place of a figurehead. It had a huge gap in it. I ended up making a filler piece then I repainted the Imperial Eagle. It’s not as good as a laser printed one and no where near as good as some of the hand painted stuff that I’ve seen on this forum, but I’m happy with it. The entire thing is 1/2” (12mm for you metric types) across.
  23. GrandpaPhil
    Very nicely done!
  24. GrandpaPhil
    I finished making all 20 of the 75mm guns: I still need to edge paint them and seal them to cover the edges of the card. They are labor intensive and fiddly from the scale, but no worse than the cannon that I am used to making. I figure that these battleships were the early Twentieth Century version of a ship of the line, so I tempered my expectations accordingly. I have already built the Solferino, which was essentially an armored, steam powered, two-decker, with 55 cannon, also in 1/200 scale and made by Orel. Plus, I made all 46 guns for the Revenge, with carriages mostly made of card. So, I already kind of knew what I was getting into. I’m still glad to get over that hurdle though. The next major one will be all the ladders and the railings. Those are always my biggest problems. But, we’ll see how much I learned from Solferino and go from there.
  25. GrandpaPhil
    It’s a worthwhile rabbit hole to go down, though. Paper has become one of my favorite mediums to work in now.

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