smarra
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Posts posted by smarra
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Here it is how it looks with the lighter thread
- Overworked724, egkb, WalrusGuy and 1 other
- 4
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I've Been practicing how to seize the blocks for the cannons.
This is like the 30th attempt. Each attempt is getting better.
I used the black thread just so it would show up in the photo.
Debating whether to switch out the rope with the rope made by Syren.
I still want to get in more practice making these before deciding if what I'm doing warrants it.
I have been using the method used by J Brent that is on youtube.
The only difference is I used 2 vises and 2 hemostats to hold everything.
- egkb, GrandpaPhil and WalrusGuy
- 3
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2 hours ago, Overworked724 said:
That’s very clear! Do you know what size the round nose pliers were? Those are very small hooks! Nicely done.
They measure 1.3mm at the tip.
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15 hours ago, Overworked724 said:
What technique did you use to make your hooks? Pics??
I used a pair of bead landing round nose pliers from Michaels
For straighten the hook I used a bead landing flat nose plier from Michaels
For clipping I used a pair of Xuron flush cutters, that I have had for the last 10 years.
I couldn't hold the camera while making one and take pictures, so I drew out the steps
Grasp the 28 gauge wire with the round nose pliers
Wrap the wire around the plier
Reposition the wire for the next bend
Finish making the hook
I used the flat nose pliers to straight out the hook and flush cutters to trim it.
Somethings you need to go back with the round nose pliers and adjust the bends in the hook.
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- Ryland Craze, Richvee and egkb
- 3
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Decided to skip the head rails for now and started on the carronades.
To make the pins for the cannon, I used a 1/6 dowel and turned it down in a drill using a wire stripper as a makeshift draw plate and then gave it a light sanding.
To drill the holes for the eyebolts, I used I used a dremel in their drill stand using some micro drills I picked up a Harbor Freight.
All of the parts ready for assembly.
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Eyebolts installed in the channels. I used the 28 gauge wire and wrapped around 1/16" drill bit.
Stern is now complete. Just the sheaves remain.
- egkb, Peter Bloemendaal, GrandpaPhil and 1 other
- 4
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Oops, the starboard channels by the stern were in the wrong position, along with the steps.
Was able to carefully remove and place them in the proper position.
Port side is now almost complete also, have to still do the sheaves and scuppers along with some eyebolts.
Then on to the gunport doors on the stern.
Can't believe I've been on chapter 9 for over 2 years now.
Feels good to finally be making progress again.
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- GrandpaPhil, egkb and Overworked724
- 3
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- GrandpaPhil and egkb
- 2
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55 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:
I use CA for my hinges (metal to anything else).
Thanks, I was worried about using epoxy for this.
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What glue has everyone used for the sweep port hinges, I've used 5 minute epoxy on the gun door hinges, but I'm worried that may make a mess on the sweep port hinges.
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On 12/30/2019 at 7:05 PM, svein erik said:
like chuck told.... now the fun part start, and yes its fun...
nice build and looks good😊
i also have the syren and am working on the mast and rigging , but its om hold at the moment!
have a grait new year☺
svein erik
I have walked through your complete build log, very impressive. I have it booked marked
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Got some time today to start the starboard side gun port doors.
Spent 1/2 an hour looking for one of the hinges on the floor, finally found it.
Does anyone know if there are extras supplied in the kit ?
I think I'll need to straighten up the work shop before going further. Barely enough room to sit right now.
- egkb, Ryland Craze and GrandpaPhil
- 3
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- GrandpaPhil, JayCub, Matt D and 4 others
- 7
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- GrandpaPhil, Cuda1949, egkb and 4 others
- 7
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On 1/15/2019 at 4:32 PM, Wallace said:
Sometimes the smallest things can make us despair. Keep at it mate, I think you are doing a fine job. This actually made me smile (and please don't think me mean) because I had made the decision a good while back to have all my gun ports closed on the Vic. I think that was a good choice.
I didn't take it that way at all.
At this point, I have ordered some boxwood strips to see if I can get a better rabbet cut with that wood.
I'll keep the ones I have so far and see if I can make better ones.
They have gotten better as I have made more of them.
If this is the best I can do, I'll be happy knowing that I gave it my best shot.
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- JayCub, GrandpaPhil, yvesvidal and 3 others
- 6
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Not much progress, but I think I've found d a way to get a consistent rabbet on the gun port doors.
I placed an xacto blade on top a metal ruler and lightly scored to cut the rabbet.
The result while not perfect is much better than what I was trying to do with a file.
I'm happy enough to proceed with the rest of the doors.
- GrandpaPhil, egkb, JayCub and 1 other
- 4
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Trumpeter 1/200 Bismarck (Upgrades)
in Plastic model kits
Posted
See this link
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/8798-mk1-design-versus-pontos/
I decided on the Pontos advanced detail set.
Since this is my first time working with PE, it seems most think the Pontos instructions are clearer than the MK1 instructions.
That is what swayed me.
You can find fantastic builds on this site with either of the kits that elevate the model to the next level.
Here is a link to a build by Semorebutts using the MK1 set
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/16996-bismarck-by-semorebutts-finished-trumpeter-1200-scale-with-mk1-detail-set/
Here is a link to a build by MadManSK using the Pontos set
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24028-bismarck-by-madmansk-finished-trumpeter-1200-electric-and-radio-control-with-pontos-detail-set/
I'd be happy if my build came out half as good as those above.