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Dowmer

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Everything posted by Dowmer

  1. Dowmer
    That's what I do. Use tape to mark a straight line on each side of the frame for the holes. Then I use a small awl or pointed tool to make indents where I want to drill. This keeps the drill bit from wandering and allows you to see how everything lines up before you drill.
  2. Dowmer
    Nice planking BE. I know sometimes it must feel like planking is like running a marathon, but it feels so good to see those curves and planks in place. Nice job.
  3. Dowmer
    Chuck, any updates on this build? Are you still building her?
  4. Dowmer
    Chuck S, True, plus if you over bevel then on the inside of the boat (which is visible in an open boat such as this) will have ugly furrows between the planks where there was too much space created. Better to knock off just enough of the inner edge to get a tight fit. Chuck P, I like your idea of having templates for your spiles. Then a less experienced builder can look to see what the shape should look like (for those visual learners such as myself) but still be able to hands on create their planks. I think you have a reasonable balanced kit offering. Enough hand holding for those that need it but not too much so a builder can still learning by doing. Besides, every model with have slightly different spiles depending on creeping errors you you mentioned earlier. 👍 Man, what’s with all the Chucks! 😆
  5. Dowmer
    Chuck, I agree wholeheartedly about modeling properly. A small kit in a larger scale like this is perfect for those learning planking since the size isn’t as daunting as something like a frigate. I would vote vote for a kit option with no spiled planks. Saves time on your Laser and allows the builder to plank the way they should if they choose to do so. Pre-spiled planks, although convenient, are a bit of a crutch as you are approaching more of an assembly type kit like you said earlier about plastic models.
  6. Dowmer
    Ok, sounds good. I was just suggesting perhaps take a couple measurements one from each end of the ship from known points on the model and make sure they match on the plan or vice versa. To give you a warm fuzzy that everything is aligned and correct and you will get correct marks when you measure off. Looking good and a nice idea mounting the plans like that. Cant wait to see the new planks. 👍
  7. Dowmer
    Al, Just make double sure that the upside down plan of the hull is exactly the same distance and angle from the table as the ship hull is off the table.
  8. Dowmer
    See, just an opportunity to excel and hone your skills
  9. Dowmer
    That’s great Toni, could you share your results with the DMC?
  10. Dowmer
    Al, I know it was tough, but like you said, it will be better in the end. Carefully measure out the sheer and rails where they are mid ships and where they terminate at the stern and stem on the plans. Also measure the distance between each section to make sure the width is correct with the right number of strakes. The bend or sheer created by the wales should set this up pretty well as they look to be parallel.
  11. Dowmer
    Al, I guess I don't understand the issue. Here's a pic of the stern of the Halifax Under the windows are some decorative molding strips and counter planking. Also, look at where the stern post enters under the windows on the counter. It looks fairly close to what you have. The wales seem to end in about the same place as well. What am I missing? If you are talking about the planking above the decorative stern, it looks like the model has an open rail aft on the quarterdeck and you planked the rail. Is that it? The more I look at your planking, the more I think you have your sheer rail in the wrong spot along with your planks too wide. Look at where the planks and rails terminate at the transom compared to yours. The Wales look OK and the decorative resin stern piece could possibly move up towards the taffrail slightly but the other planking and rails seem to be out of place. I'd get some more opinions first, but if that is the case you will need to remove the planking above the wales and reset the sheer and re-plank with correct width planking.
  12. Dowmer
    Thanks Rafael, that is very helpful. Its nice to find sources of thread that produce a nice sharp layup in suitable color and quantities that's is also inexpensive. The DMC Cordonnet comes in large spools in multiple colors and sizes which is nice and is available at local shops. I just need to figure out which thread number (10, 20, 40 , 80 etc) corresponds to what actual size. I think the larger the number the smaller the diameter. I've seen DMC thread as small as size 100 which is pretty small.
  13. Dowmer
    Rafael, so what’s your favorite? nice explanation.
  14. Dowmer
    Remco is definitely a master modeler. He makes me want to set my models on fire and starting knitting sweaters for a hobby. beautiful as always.
  15. Dowmer
    Michael, The chart Chuck posted does exactly what you said. But you just have to pick the number closest to the size you want. He has his chart graduated in the sizes of rigging he provides that is available on his website. Your eye won't pick out a few thousands difference in your rigging. Besides, Its impractical to get rope diameters in an exact size. One must work with the yarns or rope diameters you have available to spin, thus the finished rope has the finished diameter from those yarns.
  16. Dowmer
    Jim, Yes you can, and it wouldn't hurt, but its not necessary. Due to the small scale of the boat the dowel would be a small treenail smaller than 1/32". As John stated above, the transom was sturdy it was once it had been glued with supporting sticks at the top. If you are gentle with your file when fairing its not an issue. I think we are being a bit excessive for a very simple operation. But every modeler can use methods that he is comfortable with. If a modeler wishes to "pin" the transom then by all means do so.
  17. Dowmer
    Jim, The planking covers the outside edges of the transom. It is well supported once the sheer strake is added.
  18. Dowmer
    If a Dremel counts as a chainsaw, then “yes”
  19. Dowmer
    Looking good Al.
  20. Dowmer
    Looking good chuck. I like your method of lining the hull out. That’s a definite plan. Here’s a tip, you said you are cutting thin strips of the tape. That isn’t necessary. You can get artist dry erase tape or what we use for scale airplanes call “chart Pak” tape. It comes in narrow strips down to 1/64” if you want. Here’s a link to some that is 3mm, but you can get whatever width that strikes your fancy. It’s cheap. Chartpak tape link
  21. Dowmer
    True Lou, i cant imagine making this at such a tiny scale. 68mm is only 2.67 inches long. Wow!
  22. Dowmer
    Chuck, I think he was talking about the top of the bulkheads and not necessarily the curved Sheer strake which is clearly marked on the plan. The sheer definitely has a nice curve to it like you have mentioned but the bulkheads seem to have less and don't necessarily follow the same curve or almost flat depending on how they fit. At least they did on mine. Later you cut/sand the top of the bulkheads down to match the curved sheer indicated on the plans if I remember correctly. The key I think is that the bulkhead frames seat properly down to the inside rabbet edge. Chuck, is that right?
  23. Dowmer
    Thanks Remco, your build is truly inspirational. I may have to make my own plugs. I wish I was more CAD, 3D printer savvy. I would think that someone could easily scale a plug to any size and print one out in no time at all.
  24. Dowmer
    Remcohe, fabulous build. I'm glad to hear your relocation went well to Sweden and perhaps you will be back into finishing the Kingfisher. Your talents are exceptional. Early on in the build you mentioned using an Admiralty model plug for the small boat (see above). I didn't see it on their website. Is this still available? How did you get it? I have some small boats to build and this would make life much easier. Also, how did you keep the planks from sticking on your plugs/molds with the glue? Also, what kind of glue did you use? There seems to be no sight of the glue in your woodwork of the Kingfisher. Sorry for so many questions Thanks
  25. Dowmer
    Tim, This may be a bit late, but if you were still looking for contemporary references and not modern models for sloops, I would recommend you refer to Henrik Chapman's work Architectura Navalis 1768. Virtually all the small sloops and cutters from several nations referenced during this period have a Windlass. I'm not saying that all sloops and cutters had a capstan or windlass, but I would say that not having one was more the exception and not the rule. Particularly merchantmen, since they had fewer crew to man the tackles etc.

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