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Dowmer

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Everything posted by Dowmer

  1. Alan, One of the suggestions earlier which may resolve the insignia issue, was to print the insignia flat, but thicker than required and sand it down to the desired thickness after you glue it on.
  2. Ed, Great descriptions of the process. Question, (I apologize if you mentioned this earlier but with the large thread it would be impossible to find it) For you soldering work of the copper or brass, what flux and solder do you use? I’m assuming you don’t use “Staybrite” solder. Is it some kind of paste so you can control the quantity and location with small parts? Soldering iron or mini torch? A bit of a tutorial would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  3. Looks nice Rob. I like the catenary sag of the clew lines on the fore main. 👍
  4. Alan, I think hexnut was saying to print the emblem separately, sand it down to thickness required and apply to the barrel later after it’s cleaned up.
  5. Rob, Just a thought but you might be able to achieve that billowed jib look hanging away from the stay using wire instead of rope for the sheet. So it could hold the sail out so to speak rather than in real life it would hold it down.
  6. Alan, I agree with Druxey. The resolution is too coarse. Also, with the taper of the barrel you will get those steps in the barrel if you print it lengthwise. You might consider printing it in sections vertically. It will come out better and you can glue the sections together with a dowel down the center of the barrel to hold everything straight. Then smooth the roughness with acetone and sand. You dont need to get the barrel perfectly smooth. Remember, these cannon were crudely cast and their finish was a bit rough on the outside.
  7. Rob, Looking great. I like the billow of the sails. Question: Are you going to brace the yards over a little bit? On a full size ship with all sails drawinbg, I doubt the yards would be all crossed perfectly with all the sails drawing like that. The aft sails would blanket the fore sails somewhat. So they would be more on a Broad Reach so all the sails could draw and catch the wind. Just a suggestion, either way its looking very nice.
  8. Seizing or perhaps “serving” was what you were thinking of. Mike, increadible job. Looks 1:1 for sure.
  9. Just as a side note, I've been to many third world (developing) countries where they make furniture etc and I've seen them use what looked like shoe polish on the furniture they were polishing, touching up or staining etc. So it doesnt suprise me that it works here too. I'll have to give it a try.
  10. Rob, If it was me I'd rig the shrouds while there is plenty of room and no real interference. Plus it might help with arm fatigue not straining around obstructions etc. But either way its looking great.
  11. Tomek, Outstanding work.!!!!! Could you detail how you make the sails and what material? You have excellent craftsmanship.
  12. The turns in the middle of the gammoning is called frapping and was commonplace. Heres what Steel has to say in BlueEnsign’s build Log of the Pegasus post #112 Steel makes reference to cross turns of the frapping so this is the method I have adopted. When all the turns are passed, and hove tight, they are frapped together in the middle, by as many cross turns as are passed over the bowsprit, each turn hove tight: the end of the gammoning rope is then whipt, and seized to one of the turns. The frapping increases the tension; and adds to the security acquired by the purchase.
  13. Coming right along. I realize it’s a steep learning curve but you are managing very well.
  14. What!! No stun’sls!!!.......😫 But they are so characteristic of the clipper..... Just kidding Rob, it’s going to look great. 😁
  15. Its also to get the fuzz to lay down on line. Anyway, that’s why I use it. It also gives the line a bit of that tarred look if you use a dark colored wax.
  16. Yes, wet the line then stretch it. It will help it set. Even real rope was stretched after making it.
  17. Rob, When you have time would you detail how you make the paper sails, materials, techniques etc. I’ve seen many different techniques, but your sails look very nice. 😃
  18. Practice makes perfect 😁. If things get too ugly you can get some replacement parts from Model Expo
  19. I wouldn’t worry too much. I had 11 strakes on my build. Just make sure they all fit without any gap left over. Once again, watch Chucks build of his 1/48 scale boat. Also his cutter Cheerful build. He goes over measuring out strakes, fairing and tapering planks.
  20. Dont worry, I broke the stem on mine too. Just glue it back. This is a very fragile model. You will find that the basswood in this kit makes it difficult as well. Fuzzy, soft horrible stuff. Other woods are easier to work (sand, carve etc). But basswood will be good for you to learn the ropes.....so to speak.
  21. Daforunia, I dont believe the sheer is tapered or the wale plank directly below it. The rest will have to be tapered or spiled to fit the required space. Whenever possible, reference the plans. Chuck is building a larger 1:24 version with a lot more detail. If you have a chance read through it and see a detailed version of what you are building. Lots of great tips to pick up. The 1:48 version you are building can be difficult for a beginner due to the small size and advanced planking required. Just go slow and take your time. Welcome to shipbuilding. A very rewarding but slow and tedious process.
  22. Beautiful work Ed. I especially appreciate the arrows you have added to draw our attention through the web of lines. By the way, the natural droop of the chain you refer to is called a "Catenary" curve. Cheers,
  23. According to Steel, he shows sheaves on each side, so athwart as well as fore and aft. But Ive seen others with only fore and aft etc. So I guess its up to you. You might check Levers "Young Sea Officers Sheet anchor". He might have another picture of one as well. I dont have my book in front of me right now.
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