Dowmer

Looking good Al.

Looking good chuck. I like your method of lining the hull out. That’s a definite plan. Here’s a tip, you said you are cutting thin strips of the tape. That isn’t necessary. You can get artist dry erase tape or what we use for scale airplanes call “chart Pak” tape. It comes in narrow strips down to 1/64” if you want. Here’s a link to some that is 3mm, but you can get whatever width that strikes your fancy. It’s cheap. Chartpak tape link

True Lou, i cant imagine making this at such a tiny scale. 68mm is only 2.67 inches long. Wow!

Chuck, I think he was talking about the top of the bulkheads and not necessarily the curved Sheer strake which is clearly marked on the plan. The sheer definitely has a nice curve to it like you have mentioned but the bulkheads seem to have less and don't necessarily follow the same curve or almost flat depending on how they fit. At least they did on mine. Later you cut/sand the top of the bulkheads down to match the curved sheer indicated on the plans if I remember correctly. The key I think is that the bulkhead frames seat properly down to the inside rabbet edge. Chuck, is that right?

Thanks Remco, your build is truly inspirational. I may have to make my own plugs. I wish I was more CAD, 3D printer savvy. I would think that someone could easily scale a plug to any size and print one out in no time at all.

Remcohe, fabulous build. I'm glad to hear your relocation went well to Sweden and perhaps you will be back into finishing the Kingfisher. Your talents are exceptional. Early on in the build you mentioned using an Admiralty model plug for the small boat (see above). I didn't see it on their website. Is this still available? How did you get it? I have some small boats to build and this would make life much easier. Also, how did you keep the planks from sticking on your plugs/molds with the glue? Also, what kind of glue did you use? There seems to be no sight of the glue in your woodwork of the Kingfisher. Sorry for so many questions Thanks

Tim, This may be a bit late, but if you were still looking for contemporary references and not modern models for sloops, I would recommend you refer to Henrik Chapman's work Architectura Navalis 1768. Virtually all the small sloops and cutters from several nations referenced during this period have a Windlass. I'm not saying that all sloops and cutters had a capstan or windlass, but I would say that not having one was more the exception and not the rule. Particularly merchantmen, since they had fewer crew to man the tackles etc.

Dave, Pretty much what they said. All are excellent answers. I did find in Steel's 1805 Vade Mecum which is a bit later period from what you are looking for, but he mentions for all the Futtocks Scarfs bolted through with Iron 1 1/4" - 3/4" bolts depending on the size of ship. 74 Gun to Sloop.

Nice, even a little progress is still forward movement. Like you said, once you have the new quarterdeck secured things will speed up. Something to consider, if you are going to stain or dye your Wales black you might want to do that before your other planks go on to reduce the mess. Of course if you are painting then you can mask and it isn’t much of a problem. I’ll shut up now.

Nice work Lou. Sometimes its tuff to see the easier solution. I think the ship will be better for it in the long run. You are making some wise yet logical choices.

Lou, Good questions and I am by no means an authority. I suppose I showed my shallowness of knowledge LOL :). There are no doubt plenty of people following this thread that are more experienced than me, but I'll give it a go. I read Steel as two strakes for a total of 16". So two 8" planks. Specifically the document says Main Wales broad: 1'4" , Number of strakes: two. A 16" plank is pretty wide although doable back then but two 8" planks makes more sense to me. Especially sense it says Wales broad, not strakes. What I'm calling the rubbing strake is called in the book Thickstuff upon the Main Wales: one. 3" thick and 8" broad. I understand it was placed at the top of edge of the wales because after this the next line says Stuff of Topside. Diminishes from thickstuff upon the wales to under the edge of the sheer strake: 1 1/2" So the Thickstuff upon the wales would have to be on the top edge for the "topside stuff" to be adjacent to it. Does that make sense? What you said about the wales being a rubbing area is true, but it also served other functions like strengthening the hull. I think the rubbing strake or "thickstuff upon the wales" was just added protection and stiffening. On larger ships it shows "two" strakes. One at the top and another at the bottom of the wales if you look at some contemporary models like in the Rogers Collection. Yes, thickness measurements That sounds about right and reasonable to have a 9" plank. I think you are OK Lou If I messed this up, then someone please chime in.

Wow, looking good Al. Its really taking shape.

Lou, my pleasure. I have enjoyed our conversations immensely. For planking here's some numbers for you from Steel's 1805 Shipwrights Vade Mecum so you know what you are shooting for plank thickness. If you already have a source then disregard. Only added so you can bounce it off your documentation and plank stock of what you have in your Lumberyard. :). Taken for a 60 Ton Sloop which should be close enough. Wales: 2 strakes 16" wide and 4" thick. There was a 3"x8" rubbing strake over the top of the wales if you choose to use it as well. Thickstuff under Wales: 3" thick tapering down to 2" for the rest of the bottom. Topside planks: From the Wales to the Sheer rail 1.5"

Looking good Lou, I hope our conversations off line have spurred you on. The hardest part is getting those first planks on. Everything else will flow after that. Its taking shape nicely. Looking forward to the progress. I'm not sure what the kit provided for wood stock for the wales but remember that the wales was thick stuff and the planking above and below it was thinner thickness. So you should see a discernable "step" as the planking changes thickness from wales to thinner upper and lower works. Just a reminder as you go forward.

Love the Lady Washington, now if I could only finagle a job working on her at Port Townsend shipyard. Some really great history with the original Lady Washington and the PNW.

Just be careful, as it’s pretty soft. Just go slow and the wood should work fine. All else fails you can use boxwood.

Mark, If you take a look at the pic of my ship “Union” up above about 10 posts you’ll see what it looks like. I used Tung oil on it and it’s sat for about 15 years in a closet. The yellow is nice and warm but not too bright. I used it to approximate the yellow ochre paint that they used on 18th century ships. Either way, what Chuck said. Oils make it a bit darker and poly and sealer a bit lighter. And it sands and carves great with good flexibility in stits. But it will always be yellow, after all, it’s in the name

Vinnie, Check your sources for the bounty rigging. She may have used catharpins on the shrouds as well.

I guess you could always tint the wood glue black too. After wiping off the excess and it dries if leaves a soft fine edge. Never tried it but read about it. I guess I must have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express. BTW Chuck, your opening intro says the Longboat is 1:48 scale but I thought you were building to 1/2" scale or 1:24?

Wow Chuck, really beautiful! Signed up and ready for more. I love the smaller working boats and Sloop rigs. By the way, I second the sentiments on Alaskan Yellow cedar. I've been using it for the past 15 years or so before it was "fashionable" and common for ship building. I always liked it, and it is a dream to work with. Smells good too when you are planning it in the shop.....if you like that sort of thing.

Al, Lou, I agree, I love talking to the old guys. They have great stories to tell of a world that's long gone. But then again, I love history so I guess that is why I love ship modeling and talking to older generations so much. In fact not just ships. My other passion is RC Scale Aircraft...the big stuff 7-9 feet wingspan. I geek out with details and historical research just like I do with the ships.

Lou, Thanks, but no reason to be jealous. I just kind of fell into it while reading the Log of the Union. Every blind squirrel eventually finds a nut. He was a cool old codger. He had some cool stories about sailing before the mast when the sailing lumber trade was still active out of Pudget Sound.

Phil, Great tutorial...even if its a bit analytical and wordy (referring to your lawyer comment earlier ). I think this is a great tool or refresher for those of us getting back into the hobby or even seasoned ones. Its always nice to see "other ways" of doing things and alternative ideas. There are many ways to "skin a cat", no offense to cat lovers. Keep it up. Its also nice to see that although there are tools out there that make building much more enjoyable and easier, you can certainly accomplish the tasks with minimal tools as you have shown. Kudos.

Al, I built........errr I'm still building the Union, 1792 1:48 scale. My avatar pic is her. A ship from Pacific NW History and a contemporary of the Lady Washington. I used all natural woods on the hull for the different colors. Its an ongoing 15 year project (been on hold for several), but I plan to renew building her soon and starting a thread.

Lou, Actually, when I built the Union, I was living in Whidbey Island, WA in your neck of the woods. I discovered that the maritime historian Hewitt Jackson lived in Bellevue WA. So I befriended him and he convinced me to build the ship. I used to take trips over to visit him (since he was in his 90s and living alone) with a bottle of single malt scotch. Building the model was a collaboration of sorts with Hewitt since he wanted to publish another book specifically on the ship. He was involved in the details of the build and saw its construction. Unfortunately he passed away in 2007. You are correct about an interesting NW history. Quite remarkable! As far as the Lady Washington goes, Hewitt Jackson was involved in the initial part of the building draughts for her reconstruction. He gave me the blueprints to her and others involved in West coast history. So some day I plan to model them all, Columbia Redidiva, Lady Washington, Chatham, Discovery etc. There is a beautiful model of the Discovery at the Oregon Historical Society Museum in Portland. Also, The famed modeler Lloyd McCaffery did a miniature version of the Lady Washington and gifted it to Hewitt. He used to keep it on his desk. A real work of art. Fair Winds, and keep plugging away at the Providence.