Jump to content

Dowmer

Members
  • Posts

    365
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dowmer

  1. Thanks Lou for following. 😊 Only a handful of people followed so I doubt it will be missed that much. My next project will be to break out the UNION that has languished for 15 years in storage. However, life is in the way (I need to retire, move, find new employment etc.) So I won't start on it until I can get settled and set up a proper workshop. I need to re-do much of the hull planking as I was looking it over it the other day and noticed that I added some of the sheer rails in the wrong place. So it will require replacing much of the upper works plank. I'm also not very happy with the planking below the waterline. My skills have progressed over the past 20 years and now I'm a bit embarrassed of my workmanship. Especially now that I've seen how Chuck edge bends his planks. I need to get a thickness sander to do an adequate job since I mill all of my own wood. Unfortunately, I threw away my last home-made sander about 3 moves ago. 😥 I'll probably buy a Byrnes Thickness sander. Sorry for the rambling........ I should probably start a build thread for the UNION eventually, so people can see what I'm talking about. Jason
  2. The build is essentially finished. I ordered a custom acrylic case to put it in. Once it arrives I'll show the final result. Thanks for all those that have followed this short little build. Jason
  3. Ed, I've noticed Londonderry makes 100/3 thread in linen. Have you tried them? How is the quality? Here's a link LONDONDERRY 100/3 Heres another shop in Washington that sells it. They provide a .pdf for ship modelers for the diameter for the difference thread sizes and ship scale. LINK Love the work Ed 👍
  4. Great Project Alberto. Following along.
  5. Great project and unique subject Maury. Following along.
  6. Shawn, if you are talking about the short pieces between the gun ports, I cut them slightly long, then install them on the ship. The plank will protrude into the gunport slightly. Once all the planks are installed for that side of the port, I then use a small fine file. With careful strokes I file it flush being sure to keep the file 90 degrees to the side. Depending on the size I can also use a very sharp xacto blade or scalpel to trim if needed until the blade is held flush against the side of the gunport frame. I hope that makes sense?
  7. Thanks Bill for the Update. By the way, I too am in Chantilly. 😀
  8. Bill, any updates? Whatever happened to this build?
  9. Based on the survey done for kit quality on this site under the kit forum I'd say Caldercraft quality wins hands down for quality. There are several builds on this site you can check as well.
  10. Dave, thanks for dropping in to my thread. I’m glad you appreciate the nuances of the PNW longboat from the standard kit. 👍
  11. Thanks Lou, great to hear from you. This little project was something to wet my appetite to get back into ship building. It did its job. 😀 I'm really enjoying it. The best part is learning all the different and new techniques on this website. Over course the motivation aspect of seeing all the incredible work by the masters here help as well. I wish I had this resource when I started 30 years ago. It would have prevented a lot of head scratching. 😟
  12. Thanks Chuck, I did a little research and found a reference to the use of toggles. At this scale for the boat I’m making at 1:48 it was a pain but it sort of worked. I love your method of using tissue paper. It does the trick.
  13. So I needed a flag but I needed to figure out how they attached the flag to the halyard. After a lot of searching around I referred to an old Jean Boudriot book and found a depiction of one in his book of the BonHomme Richard. Im assuming this is how they typically secured them and it makes sense. The period is correct so I gave it a try. The hardest thing to make was the toggles. At this scale they were about a mere 1.5mm. I turned down a piece of hardwood and wrapped the .008 rigging line around it. The Hoist of the flag (the vertical part) was left white and folded over the line and glued with thinned white glue. The flag was made using Chuck’s method of tissue paper. Here’s a link to his thread for the Cheerful. Cheerful Link I chose a 13 star flag representative of the era circa 1790. I used some some tissue paper the wife had squirreled away for Christmas. Cut a small piece and taped it onto a sheet of 8x11.5 office paper. This acted as a carrier to feed the tissue through the printer. Printed the flag then cut it to shape and sprayed some Krylon fixative. After gluing in the toggles I sprayed some more fixative on the flag to soften it and shaped it. Viola La! I attached the halyards and hoisted the flag to the truck. Secured to the starboard deadeye. Here’s some pictures of the finished product. Making and attaching the toggles was fiddly but worth it in the end. Next up is to make some rope coils and hang them on the boat and I’m done. Cheers landlubbers 😁
  14. Chuck, I'm playing around with the flag technique you detailed earlier (see below). It works amazingly well BTW. 👍 My question is, how did they (18th century) attach the flag to the halyard...or how did you attach it to the Cheerful? Toggles? Thanks for the great tips,
  15. Robert, Thanks for the kind comments. I'm working on the last of the running gear and should have it completed soon. Cheers,
  16. B.E. a wise and sensible choice me thinks. I would have come to a similar conclusion. Nicely done. 😁
  17. Toni, a real masterpiece. Well done. Have you considered adding short stub masts and bowsprit like some of the admiralty models do? Just to show easily where they are located. Either way, a real beautiful ship
  18. Thanks Lou for dropping in. It’s always nice to hear from you. I decided to rig the bowsprit and traveler. I made the traveler out of wire provided in the kit and attached the jib halyard with the small single block and hook. At this scale the hook is tiny, but I was able to mouse the end of the hook to keep it secure as it would have been done. I know, I have a sickness. 😃 The outhaul was rigged and passed through the sheeve on the end of the bowsprit then through the block on the stem and up into the bow to be secured to the forward thwart with the support knees. With the outhaul acting like a bobstay the bowsprit is surprisingly steady. On to the boom and gaff after the holiday weekend.
  19. Thanks Chuck, that will be a good compare contrast. I incorporated some of the changes you added to your 1:24 version to my current build of the 1:48 version....unwittingly of course. I guess great minds think alike. 😀 The hull shape is what it is, so I kept that or I would have built the hull from scratch. My build link is in my signature line. It isn’t the quality of your build, but then again, few are. 😉 cheers
  20. Looks great Chuck. I like the more full and round bow and stem as opposed to the smaller 1:48 version. The increased sheer is also a nice touch.
  21. Standing rigging done today. 😀 On to the running rigging. This is such a small boat, the running rigging won’t take long. View from the bow. You can easily see the block on the stem for the outhaul and the grapnel and swivel behind the forward stay. View looking forward. You can see the backstays tied off and the rigging lashed to the block and hook. This was shown on the NMM Model and makes sense so I copied it. Port side view Starboard side view Standing rigging at the mast hounds Overall view. Now time to finish it up. Boom and gaff next with the jib halyard on the bowsprit.
  22. Excellent job BE! I like the careful and methodical false deck installation. Preparation and planning makes all the difference.
×
×
  • Create New...