shipmodel

Hi Greg - 
 
The new tops look good, as do all your masts and spars.  They should compliment your hull and fittings very nicely.
 
As for the tops as drawn, I do not know of a contemporary model with such tops, but Captain Bligh's notes on the conversion of the Bethia to the HMS Bounty indicates that he had her fitted with 'gratten' tops, which I took to mean 'gratings'.  I suppose that this was to readily shed water in the rainy South Pacific where he was headed.  I have seen some modern models with such tops, and some look quite nice.
 
As the man said, "You pays yer money and you makes yer choice. . ."
 
Stay safe and well.
 
Dan

Hi Greg - 
 
The new tops look good, as do all your masts and spars.  They should compliment your hull and fittings very nicely.
 
As for the tops as drawn, I do not know of a contemporary model with such tops, but Captain Bligh's notes on the conversion of the Bethia to the HMS Bounty indicates that he had her fitted with 'gratten' tops, which I took to mean 'gratings'.  I suppose that this was to readily shed water in the rainy South Pacific where he was headed.  I have seen some modern models with such tops, and some look quite nice.
 
As the man said, "You pays yer money and you makes yer choice. . ."
 
Stay safe and well.
 
Dan

Hi Greg - 
 
The new tops look good, as do all your masts and spars.  They should compliment your hull and fittings very nicely.
 
As for the tops as drawn, I do not know of a contemporary model with such tops, but Captain Bligh's notes on the conversion of the Bethia to the HMS Bounty indicates that he had her fitted with 'gratten' tops, which I took to mean 'gratings'.  I suppose that this was to readily shed water in the rainy South Pacific where he was headed.  I have seen some modern models with such tops, and some look quite nice.
 
As the man said, "You pays yer money and you makes yer choice. . ."
 
Stay safe and well.
 
Dan

Hi Greg - 
 
The new tops look good, as do all your masts and spars.  They should compliment your hull and fittings very nicely.
 
As for the tops as drawn, I do not know of a contemporary model with such tops, but Captain Bligh's notes on the conversion of the Bethia to the HMS Bounty indicates that he had her fitted with 'gratten' tops, which I took to mean 'gratings'.  I suppose that this was to readily shed water in the rainy South Pacific where he was headed.  I have seen some modern models with such tops, and some look quite nice.
 
As the man said, "You pays yer money and you makes yer choice. . ."
 
Stay safe and well.
 
Dan

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Chuck - 
 
Beautiful craftsmanship, as always.  All the joints are so clean and tight, which is really impressive.
Though I do not plan to build a kit, I have read pretty much every instruction manual, article and book, and wrote a few with Jim Roberts.
I have to say that your explanations and instructions are up there with the best.  They are as clean and tight as your woodwork.
Following along in my head I take it a sentence or two at a time and I can actually see the model rising from the building board.
Every one building the model is extremely lucky to have you take them through a master class in the arts of the shipwright.
 
Two small suggestions, if I may - - 
     First, it might be a bit easier for the modelers if you gave them the knee of the cathead along with cathead.  The slant of its top will establish the angle of the cathead relative to the hull.  This then determines the way the bottom of the notch rises from inboard to outboard.
     Second, you suggest a really sharp chisel for the cuts.  I think many of your followers would appreciate a quick lesson in sharpening chisels.  I don't know, myself, I just pull out a fresh hobby blade.  It is a skill that I should add to my toolbox.
 
Keep on with the good work.
Stay safe and well
 
Dan
 
 

Thank You....I just added more images of the contemporary model to the gallery album. 
 
Also this is a good one that shows the cathead as you guys will soon be adding it to your model.   Interesting white painted panels but I didnt care for that look.  So I am going all natural.  Again note how the bottom edge of the cathead lines up with the bottom edge of the molding on the hull.  Keep this reference in mind when you cut those notched.   Outboard side of notch to the molding like this.  The inboard side is taken all the way down to the deck.
 

 

 
 

I added the breasthook at the bow.  This was straight forward.  It is laser cut.  Unlike the one on the gun deck at the bow I cut this one in one piece.  So you may have to adjust and tweak it to fit snug and tight against the bulwarks a the bow.   Dont forget to chamfer the top and bottom edge on the aft side.  That is customary.   Unlike last time you see I also added some bolts.  There are four on each arm or side of the breasthook.  I used 30lb black fishing line for this.
 

In the same photo above you can also see the cathead I made.  But most important in that photo is the slot for the cathead.  Note how it has been notched out with a sharp chisel and blade.  I did so on the inboard side right down to the deck.   Take the INBOARD side down to the margin plank.  Remove the waterway as well.  Do this carefully.  You will need sharp chisels or blades.  Careful not to mar the deck.
 
On the outboard side it is a bit different.  See below.  I only notched the outboards side down to the top of the frieze.....OR better yet described, remove the fancy molding where the  notch will be.  Then deepen the notch down to the bottom edge of the molding that remains.  Its not as deep as the inboard side.  This is what will give the cathead its proper angle.
 

I hope this makes sense so far...
 
The catheads...
 

These are pretty easy to make but dont rush it.   The main cathead is in three layers.   The two outboard layers define its shape.  They line up with the front or OUTBOARD end of the cathead.   But this is very important.  The goal here is to not show the seams between the three layers if possible.  To minimize this, you MUST thoroughly clean the char from the edges of the center piece.  Its 1/4" thick boxwood so there is a lot of char.  Dont be afraid to scrape it and sand it.  I compensated for this and if you dont clean it well enough, the two outside sheaves of the cathead will be too wide.   So do go ahead and sand away!!!  Also test the sides periodically to check the width of the two outer sheave slots.   
 
Glue the layers up with tite-bond.  Make sure you line everything up and center the side pieces up and down.  Then sand them smooth top and bottom.  But also sand the center to the shape of the outside layers.  That shape is very important.  Note the finished cathead in the photo above.  Use a sharp chisel to get most of the heavy stuff off and when you get close to the shape switch over to a sanding stick.  Sand it to match the shape....test it in the slot on the model.  ONE MORE NOTE:  the front side of each cathead is NOT at a 90 degree angle.  It isnt supposed to be.  It is a much steeper angle actually and that is a detail not usually shown n models.  The angle of the front of the cathead is important and before you glue the star onto it you should make sure its flat and shaped appropriately.  Look at the laser cut sheet and I think you can better see the actual shape of the cathead on the side panels.  I made sure I gave you guys an extra cathead just in case.
 
The front piece is similar.  It has that wonderful star pattern etched onto it.  Sand the four sides flush.  But also try and scrape some of the char away from the perimeter of the star.  I used the tip of a #11 blade to scrape away a good amount of the char around the outside of the star.  It cleaned up really good.  I found it easier to do after I glue it onto the cathead.
 
Test it on the model...
 

In this photo above you will also notice how I added an iron band around the outboard end.  Its very thin.  I just used some black tape for this.  Dont make this too heavy and wide.  Just a really thin band.   Use the seam from the star piece as a guide.  Cover up that seam or at least put the band right up against it.   It really finishes it off wouldnt you say?
 
When positioning it....the inboard side is also very very important.  Remember you want it to look like one piece with the cat tail under the beams.  Do your best to line them up assuming you positioned all that stuff carefully enough early on.  
 
See below.  we are just trying to simulate the cathead and cat tail being in one piece.  Do the best you can.  Its a very difficult part to make otherwise.  Especially with a cathead as detailed as this one.  Oh and yes there are laser cut sheaves for the cathead as well.  You can see them in the photos.  Just glue them into the slots for them.  
 

I am not sure I pulled it off 100% but its real close.  I am happy with the results.  Especially after looking at how the catheads are usually portrayed on most kits.  They seem like afterthoughts.  But they are an important detail in my opinion. 
 

Now to do the other side....any comments or questions??

Really nice work, Roger.
I love the idea of giving the viewer a glimpse of some of the internal details.
It should be interesting to see who notices and who does not.
Hopefully you will bring the completed ship to the next NRG conference, whenever it is.
Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.
 
Be well
 
Dan

Thank You
 
Moving on to the belfry rail.  This is pretty straight forward.  All of the parts are laser cut for you.  I carefully removed the laser char from each piece and then glued each rail together.  One thing worth noting is that the tops of the rail uprights are shaped like the typical  timberheads you have all seen.  But they can only have the shape laser cut on two sides.  You will need to sand or file the shape on the front end of each.  I just used a sharp #11 blade actually to cut in the angle for the top.  There is a laser etched line already on the piece to act as a stop-cut.   So I just sliced the angle back towards the etched line.  You can see one that has been shaped before painting below.
 

Another detail to mention is the fact that the fcastle deck has a roundup or camber to it.   In order to ensure these uprights for the rail are actually vertical, the bottom of each of them is laser cut at the appropriate angle for you.   Just make sure you face them all the correct way when you insert the uprights into the rail.   Insert them top-end first as I also laser cut a small stop into the bottom half of the uprights so you can keep the height of the rail consistent along all three pieces.   
 
There is also a small "L" shaped piece that is glued to the inboard end of each rail port and starboard.  Make sure you glue it to the correct side....otherwise the rail will not sit properly and will lean to one side because of the angled bottoms.
 

These "L" shaped pieces once glued to each rail also help position it on the fcastle.  It makes it impossible not to center them on the fcastle edge properly.   The one side of the "L" actually sits against the belfry.  It butts up against the belfry sides.
 
Oh and I almost forgot...you can round off the sheaves on the rail just like on the other fittings you made from parts like this.  Paint them black.
 

Slowly but surely the fcastle is filling up with details.   Next up will be the large knee at the bow followed by the catheads.
 
Any questions or comments?  Feedback...
 
 

Still plugging away on experimenting guys…i have made probably a dozen of these already all with different shapes and approaches.  These are all with the laser cutter but when time permits I may also give it a try on the cnc.
 
Just trying to manage my time to get it all done.  Each iteration takes a few hours.  Adjusting for grain direction and number of parts etc
 
These are just down and dirty experiments.  I am leaning in the direction of the one on the right.  But nothing will out do a scratch built rail but I am trying to get you guys close enough to be happy.
 

One of the many tests made in just cedar.  This one was discarded for obvious reasons.  I started using cedar for the tests because I was going through too much of my boxwood stash.  The shape isnt correct on this version and its a bit too heavy.  Too much sweep and curve toward the forward end of the rail.
 

 
These headrails will take a long while to get right.  I have to take a step back and turn my attention to finishing the next two chapters but I think its good that you see how many iterations I work up and the thought process. It takes me forever to work on each element.  I am never entirely satisfied.  
 
Feedback??  Any would be appreciated as it would let me know if I am on the right path or not.
 

Doris - 
 
What a great artistic eye you have !  Thanks for sharing your techniques and photos.
 
Dan
 
 

Hi Doris - 
 
I found the drawing that I was thinking of.  It turned out to be the Royal Katherine herself as drawn by VdV the Elder in 1673 and reproduced in Frank Fox's book "Great Ships - The Battlefleet of King Charles II".  As he shows, the half gangway goes up only to the entry port, which is much closer to the forward gunport than I would have expected.  This may have been forced on the builder by the forward location of the main channel, which would have been much more difficult to move.  

Please be assured that none of this nit-picking detracts in any way from the beautiful work that you are doing.
 
Be well
 
Dan 

Hi Doris - 
 
Thanks for pointing me to the models.  I think I see how it works.  The steps only go up to the level of the entry port, which is offset aft.  This is the officers' entry.  For the rest, a rope ladder, probably with wooden steps, would have been lowered from the rail and over the closed gunport.  In combat it would have been pulled up, of course.

I saw this feature in some Van de Velde sketches, but thought that the incomplete ladder was just an artistic shortcut.  I should never doubt the master.
 
Dan
 

Hi Doris - 
 
Beautiful work, as always.  Your build logs have elevated my own work, even on such different subjects as the ocean liners that I have built.
 
I have one small question - do you think that your entry port is too far aft?  Is there enough room for the crew to secure the train and breeching tackle for the gun immediately aft of the port?  How will the steps for the gangway run up to the top rail?  I have seen the painting of the ship with this feature placed as you have it, but I can't figure out how it would work.
 
Thanks
 
Dan
 

Really nice work, Roger.
I love the idea of giving the viewer a glimpse of some of the internal details.
It should be interesting to see who notices and who does not.
Hopefully you will bring the completed ship to the next NRG conference, whenever it is.
Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.
 
Be well
 
Dan

Really nice work, Roger.
I love the idea of giving the viewer a glimpse of some of the internal details.
It should be interesting to see who notices and who does not.
Hopefully you will bring the completed ship to the next NRG conference, whenever it is.
Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.
 
Be well
 
Dan

Really nice work, Roger.
I love the idea of giving the viewer a glimpse of some of the internal details.
It should be interesting to see who notices and who does not.
Hopefully you will bring the completed ship to the next NRG conference, whenever it is.
Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.
 
Be well
 
Dan

Really nice work, Roger.
I love the idea of giving the viewer a glimpse of some of the internal details.
It should be interesting to see who notices and who does not.
Hopefully you will bring the completed ship to the next NRG conference, whenever it is.
Looking forward to seeing her in all her glory.
 
Be well
 
Dan

CHAPTER 8 (continued)
 
The Rabbit hole:  in late July my wife and I visited a fellow model builder and NRG member and his wife who live nearby in Wisconsin.  I was astonished by his collection of beautiful scratch built models, several of Lake vessels.  I was intrigued by the way that he had added interest by giving viewers a peek of the ship’s machinery through an open door, hatch or skylight.  Returning home, I decided to add the same feature to my Benjamin Noble model.  I will show the engine room skylight open revealing the top of the triple expansion steam engine below.  I also decided to show the coal bunker partially filled, visible through the open coal bunker hatch.
 
This all required an examination and reconstruction of the ship’s internal arrangements.  I was able to do so with reasonable accuracy from the structural drawings that showed the rectangular trunk passing from the engine room to the deckhouse roof.  This same drawing also showed the coal bunker and located the two boilers.  I was surprised to discover that the layout of the coal bunker and boilers differed from the usual layout of Great Lakes ships- see drawing below.  Instead of locating the coal bunker at the forward end of the deckhouse, the bunker wraps around the boilers with the hatch behind the smokestack.
 
Why did the Noble’s designers do this, and why not use the generally accepted arrangement?  Answer:  by doing so they increased the volume of the hold by the 7000+ cubic feet that would otherwise be taken up by the bunker.  So then, why did the designers of other Great Lakes ships favor the more common arrangement that cost them hold volume?  
 
For every cargo that can be conceivably be carried  aboard ship there is what’s called a “stowage factor” that lists the volume required by one ton of cargo.  The principal American Great Lakes cargo was and still is iron ore.  In the early 1900’s, coal was a secondary cargo, loaded when the opportunity presented to avoid returning back up the Lakes in ballast.  The stowage factor for iron ore, a very heavy cargo, is about 20 cu ft per ton.  When hauling iron ore the ship would be considered to be fully loaded well before her holds were full.  Sacrificing hold volume for bunker space, therefore, did not affect the carrying capacity for vessels built to haul iron ore.
 
Why did the Noble’s designers need the extra hold space gained by her unusual and costly bunker arrangement.  She was designed to carry a very light cargo: pulpwood with a stowage factor of over 140 cubic feet per ton.   When she sank, she was carrying railroad rails, stowage factor 12 cubic feet per ton.  There was a lot of empty space in her hold that was subject to flooding if her hatches failed.  
 
The subassembly in the second photo below fits into a space chiseled into the poop deck.  Parts of it will be visible through the engine room skylight.  The other part is the coal bunker.  The two boilers would have been underneath.
 

Looks good Roger.   Is there any part of ship modeling that doesn't lead to a rabbit hole?   Some are bigger and deeper than others.