hollowneck

Satin but wiped and buffed off with a lint free cloth.  So no shine at all.

I think the key is wipe-on-wipe-off Poly. Per what I’ve learned. From Chuck, I wipe it on and wipe it off as I’m doing it. Penetrates. The wood, leaves no shine and a matte finish. 

I just realized I forgot to upload a photo for the hand pump after I added the scratched spout. You can also see the larger square spout on the chain pumps body; this one is 3/16" square so you can see that the hand pump spout is less than 1/8" square! Getting that round hole on center so it wouldn't break through the side of the square stock was nerve-wracking! I had to grip the tiny piece with a tweezer clamp when I drilled it.
Ron

I hope you will make a build log when you begin.

See the current issue of the Nautical Research Journal for more about this Shipyard and a model of a ship built there.

Excavation by Brock University archaeology students and professionals have been held up the past two years by the pandemic. It is hoped that the site will become active again next  year. It is known that an abandoned 'canaller' is buried at a deeper level on this site.

I've been fortunate enough to have received 3D printed anchors and deadeyes (TINY!!!) from HenrytheStaffy. Brilliant quality.
 
Steven

oops, forgot this pic.
 
This photo shows (background) the scratched waterway with a couple scupper holes. You can also see the added pear lining piece on the base of one gunport. On the cannon, tompions will be affixed to most, with added release ropes threaded thru the gunports. These are made from toothpicks and tiny brass "eyelets." I'm certain the actual mechanisms were more complex than this...🤫 I have since removed the char on the carriage axles after someone noted this...(thanks, Chuck).
 
Important edit: You'll see the breeching rope is mounted to the cannon's cascabel BEFORE attempting to rig the eyebolt hardware into the corresponding holes alongside each gunport. This process makes mounting the cannon so much easier to accomplish. I don't do training tackle on my cannon (or trussing tackle, the upper eyebolts over the openings). There are modelers of this era who do add this embellishment and it can be impressive. For me, adding fiddly 2 mm blocks with .12 dia. proper rigging rope is beyond my patience level, especially for rigging 20 cannon (14 of which won't even be seen!)...
...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron
Technical note: all my log photos thus far are taken with my old iPhone 6, for convenience (2016?). Not great resolution with any of them, but it does the job.

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

oops, forgot this pic.
 
This photo shows (background) the scratched waterway with a couple scupper holes. You can also see the added pear lining piece on the base of one gunport. On the cannon, tompions will be affixed to most, with added release ropes threaded thru the gunports. These are made from toothpicks and tiny brass "eyelets." I'm certain the actual mechanisms were more complex than this...🤫 I have since removed the char on the carriage axles after someone noted this...(thanks, Chuck).
 
Important edit: You'll see the breeching rope is mounted to the cannon's cascabel BEFORE attempting to rig the eyebolt hardware into the corresponding holes alongside each gunport. This process makes mounting the cannon so much easier to accomplish. I don't do training tackle on my cannon (or trussing tackle, the upper eyebolts over the openings). There are modelers of this era who do add this embellishment and it can be impressive. For me, adding fiddly 2 mm blocks with .12 dia. proper rigging rope is beyond my patience level, especially for rigging 20 cannon (14 of which won't even be seen!)...
...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron
Technical note: all my log photos thus far are taken with my old iPhone 6, for convenience (2016?). Not great resolution with any of them, but it does the job.

I know, I know. Most scuppers of the era were made from lead.
 
But in my workshop the EPA has been looking over my shoulder lately, so I made Camilla's scuppers in a more environmentally and human-friendly material.
Ron

Amazon. Where else? A set of 4 is $20-something, but worth it.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Finger-Drills-Package-of-4/dp/B06XF39QTX
 
I also think MicroMark carried them a few years ago but not currently.
 
Ron

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

Jacek,
That's exactly what I dd with these pieces: cut them into bite-size chunks very carefully and THEN de-char and mount them.
Chuck has also suggested just tossing these (with the exception of the upper volute piece) and making one's own. This requires accurately cut 1.5-2mm hardwood strips (pear in this instance for aesthetic reasons) and making a necessary scraper tool.
 
Ron
 

You must be barking mad! Welcome to the club, Alan.

Well, I just today finished my one hole 16'-9" Aleutian hunting Baidarkas (Kayak) frame build.
Photo posted below for your amusement.
I will be writing this one up and submitting it for publication in the Nautical Research Journal.
My River Raft (above) was published in the issue that came out today.
Then I'll be back full time on my Billy Ruffian.

I had a couple good weeks of framing, followed by yet another needle in the left eye and a few days recovery.
 
Then I decided to work on something different for a change of scenery.  Always nice to do that occasionally, finish something completely for a change as you can only fool yourself for so long that having completed yet one more frame is a major achievement  8*)
 
My Mississippi Plank River Raft (1830-1840) based on the description by Mark Twain in The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.
The raft hovers above with the riverbed below (on top of the book).  Crayfish and shrimp traps on the riverbed with wooden buoys floating above on either side of the raft at the imaginary water level.
 
Photo below.   
Just needs a display case and name plate.
 
I was back onto frames yesterday.
 

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

That is the cleanest set of molding I have seen on any Sphinx build to date.  Well done. 

The other approach to reduce sanding is the scrape the char with a #11 blade.  A lot of it can be removed quickly leaving a lot less to sand. Of course holding these small parts in one hand with a blade in your other hand requires extreme caution and going very slow.

Yes, Chopping them up makes it easier to DeChar - also, i have removed all the linings between the gunports before gluing the molding in place and shaped and fitted the pieces which go between the gunports separately (mostly because i realised, that James' approach of cutting them with pliers and filing in place destroys the paintwork inside the Gunports in my case, also the pressure of pliers can destroy the mouldings themselves ).
 
Starboard side is a work in progress now, scraping the mouldings one by one now and only will start gluing when i have all cleaned up (takes time but i can do these parts during Conference Calls at work).
 
Looking at the pics tho, one thing i wont be able to do is to leave bare wood below the wales, i screwed up here as i forgot the wale pattern when i was doing the 2nd planking (the "best" 3 planks are hidden under the wale) and it just doesnt look presentable now. I am thinking between White and Ochre paint for the area between the wale and waterline (if i choose white, i'd consider coppering below the waterline too)

After failing to fit the Bow Rails in one piece, i went with Chucks suggestion to chop up the rest in more manageable pieces.
The cuts on the Vertical connectors will be hidden by the Channel Knees.
 
End-Result on Port Side:

 
Some corrections in the Wale paintjob required (also some touchups in the Quarter gallery Area) and i can move to the other side

Well done Jacek, what a difference the Chuck approach has. 👍
 
B.E.

For parts like that...no silver bullet I am afraid.   Just need to be careful.   But looking at the shape of those parts and the way they are cut, they lend themselves to breaking along the cross-grain.  So if it were me cleaning those,  I would preemptively break those moldings in the most delicate spots such as the areas that broke for you.  I would have carefully cut those cross-grain vertical pieces away so I could more easily hold the molding and sand them a little at a time individually down their length with some 420 grit sandpaper.   I would cut the vertical pieces free right up against the fancy molding.  Indicated by the red lines.  But thats just me.  If you are really worried about placing the vertical elements back where they should be, you could also cut them free leaving a small nub against the fancy molding.  But leave the break point as a clean break so the pieces will glue back without even ever seeing the seams.
 

 
Then I would assemble the moldings separately on the model and add those vertical pieces after the fact....all cleaned and crisp.   Any gaps would be filled before the second layers were added.   I wouldnt have laser cut those moldings in one piece.   The simple breaks (or absence) of the etched lines of the fancy molding are more than enough of a reference to see where the vertical pieces like fenders and such go.  But if I felt I needed more reference I would have drawn them with a pencil before removing as indicated by the blue lines.  But again thats just me.   For me as a builder there would be no reason to make cleaning the char more difficult to try and attempt it in one huge piece like that, and as such I would remove all vertical element cross grain pieces before char removal.  They are super easy to add and locate back later on.  I would use a sharp blade to do so.  Lightly score the back side and bend to snap them clean away.  I would leave the area as a clean break with no sanding so the pieces removed will fit back perfectly without any issue when the time comes.  Especially since they will be covered up with a second layer.  Its just a different approach...one that would make me more comfortable.

Boring Conference Calls can be used for other stuff as well:

 
Unfortunately Chargate has it's Victims too (repairable tho)
 

 
@Chuck in UK Glenn's Thread you mentioned about some technique which requires very little sanding