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grsjax

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Everything posted by grsjax

  1. grsjax
    Another good site for finding books is bookfinder.com . I have found some very good deals on rare/out of print books there.
  2. grsjax
    How fast are you running the wood through the saw? If you are moving to fast it can result in poor results. Try moving the piece forward at a slow pace, experiment until you find the speed that works best. A dull blade could also be the culprit.
  3. grsjax
    Another thing you can do to make the Dremel drill stand better is to fill the column with something to stiffen it. A wood dowel of the right size or poring in epoxy thickened with sawdust will do the trick.
  4. grsjax
    I find the Dremel drill press stand adequate for 90% of the drilling I need. Bolting it down to a solid surface helps. For the more precise work a small bench top drill press is the way to go.
  5. grsjax
    I would go along with the suggestion of using poplar. It is usually available from the big box stores, is fairly cheap, harder than bass wood but still works easily and looks good. As for slicing up the wood you might want to invest in a hollow ground planer blade for your table saw. With care you can get very thin sections using a planer blade.
  6. grsjax
    Was looking at Loctite GO2 glue today at Wally World and was wondering if anyone is using it. From the description on the package it looks pretty good and it works with wood, plastic and metal.
  7. grsjax
    One sold other three are still available. I will ship plans to international destinations but costs may be higher.
  8. grsjax
    This is a startup that isn't on the market yet. Claims it can cut soft material like leather. This is a link to their Kickstarter page.
  9. grsjax
    For a kit like the MSW Bluenose you wouldn't need a lot of tools. Bare bones would be an xacto knife with a No.11 blade (get extra blades), a razor saw, large and small tweezers and sandpaper do most of what you need to do. A few other tools are nice to have like a couple of needle files and maybe a miter box but arn't necessary to complete the model. Look over each step in the process and determine before hand what tools are going to required. Have fun.
  10. grsjax
    I have the US Navy boat book and it is a very worthwhile addition to any library.
  11. grsjax
    Don't know what kind of wood it is but would be surprised if it was boxwood. Anyway if you need boxwood get it from Chuck on this forum. He has high quality stuff at reasonable prices.
  12. grsjax
    There is, or was a company called Woodkrafter that makes simple model ships for kids. Don't know if they are still in business.
  13. grsjax
    Brass spacers used in lamps can make good ship stands. They already have a hole through them so simply running a screw up through the base board, spacer and into the keel makes a solid stand. These are links to a couple of lamp part supplier that sells them. You can usually find good ones for about $5 a pair. https://www.grandbrass.com/category/necks-cast_brass_necks/necks/ https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/lamp-parts/couplings-loops-hooks-swivels/couplings-armbacks-necks-swivels-spindles
  14. grsjax
    Thanks for the kind thoughts. Luckly we are in a spot that doesn't flood and can last for several days if the roads get cut. Biggest problem is going to be power outages. If a lot of lines go down we could be using candles for a week or more. Makes doing fine work very difficult.
  15. grsjax
    I would sand it to fit. Others may have different advice.
  16. grsjax
    It is actually easier working on large timbers if you have the right tools. But as was said above you can't just glue your planks on.
  17. grsjax
    I have been looking at the Master Korabel kits. Just wanted to try a simple small scale boat first and the Falkonet 6 oar boat looked like a good bet. Already ordered the Falkonet kit. Figured if Model-expo was selling them they must be legit. Live and learn.
  18. grsjax
    If they are not to delicate they can be polished in a tumbler. A kids rock tumbler is perfect for this. Use a fine medium like ground walnut shell or corn cob with a shot of liquid polish like Brasso. The finer the medium the better the result will be. Add a shot of Brasso or other liquid polish to the medium. Don't use the grit sold with the tumber, much to harsh for brass. Put everything in the tumbler barrel and let run for 30 minutes or so. Take out one of the parts and check the state of the polish. If it needs more time do it in increments of 10 minutes or so. After it looks good rinse with acetone and let dry.
  19. grsjax
    Good advice. A make do alternative is a hot attic. Don't know what your weather is like there but if attics get hot then you can sticker the boards there and get some dry wood. Down side is you can't really control the moisture levels very well.
  20. grsjax
    These are Model Shipwright plans published by Conway Marine. $10 each including 1st Class mail shipping in the U.S. All Three for $25. Sorry about the poor quality pics. Haven't quite got digital photograph figured out. TSMV Lochfyne MV Ilala "X" Lighter
  21. grsjax
    Thanks I think I will go ahead and order one. I will put up a review of the kit.
  22. grsjax
    Any reasonably hard wood with a fine, straight grain can be used for most parts of a model. Best to pick out your own pieces if you can to get the best results. That said some woods are better for some purposes. For a general all around, low cost wood go with basswood. Poplar is also a low cost alternative that is a little harder than basswood. Not the best woods but pretty good. I like cherry for most purposes but it doesn't seem to be the best for steam bending. Apple and pear are good for just about anything. Black walnut is excellent if you can find good pieces with out wild grain or knots. Maple is good for the backbone of the model and decks but get wood with a fine grain, not the typical stuff you find at Home Depot. Boxwood is an excellent wood for everything especially carving but it is expensive. There are lots of woods that can be used in modeling and they don't have to be the ones found in kits or from wood suppliers. I find that aracantha, dogwood, gardenia, plum, lemon, lime and other woods I find available around here work just fine and are usually for free. You do have to season it and mill it yourself but it is easy to do with a little practice. One last thing. Don't buy wood from sources in China. What they label as cherry, walnut or boxwood has only a passing kinship with the real stuff.
  23. grsjax
    I have listed all 8 issues of vols 28 and 29 on ebay. They are list individually. The first one listed is at https://www.ebay.com/itm/173457586155?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 The opening bid is $1.25 for each issue with a buy it now price of $2.50.
  24. grsjax
    Just a suggested addition to the list of kits for people with a little experience, The Model Shipways kit the skipjack "Willie Bennett". Great kit that is not to hard to build and has really clear, easy to follow instructions.
  25. grsjax
    Yes but also later types up to the early part of the 20th century. I like small work boats as they really represent the majority of ship building and use during these periods. The large ships get all the attention but the small ones did most of the work.

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