grsjax

Depends on the alloy you choose.  Some can be melted on a stove.

I am resting....I am just playing in the shop.   Its when I have to make tons of parts that I get worn out.   I am just drafting some designs and solving some problems on the computer.
 
Its all good.   No inventory is being made today for sure.  Just a leisure slow day in the shop sipping tea.
 
Chuck

Make one and use it as a pattern for a silicone mold to cast the others using a low temperature alloy.
 

Make one and use it as a pattern for a silicone mold to cast the others using a low temperature alloy.
 

Make one and use it as a pattern for a silicone mold to cast the others using a low temperature alloy.
 

In my experience, at least, the irony is that shaping a solid hull (or stacking up a hollow "bread and butter" hull) takes a whole lot less time and work than building a POB or POF hull. Having cut my teeth on the old Model Shipways "yellow boxes," and Blue Jacket, and Marine Models solid hull kits, I couldn't agree more that they would almost be seen as 'scratch-builds" today! As the story goes, the manufacturers picked up some of the government surplus gunstock duplicating carving machines after the War and used those to shape their kit model hulls on a mass production basis. Those machines did a pretty accurate job. There wasn't a lot of need for checking shapes with a template if you had an eye for a fair shape. All many needed was just a surface sanding without the need for carved shaping, other than the stem, keel, and bulwarks which were left thick (to prevent damage in shipping, I suppose.)
 
I surely agree that there was little difference between the old pre-carved "kits" and scratch-building. All they provided that was not "scratch" were the cast metal fittings and the machine carved hull. Everything else, e.g. rigging thread, dowels, strip wood, that came in the old kits were just materials scratch-builders today buy piecemeal. What you were really paying for in the old kits were the plans and instructions and the perhaps exaggerated implied promise that anybody could build a model as good as the prototype in the photograph pasted on the end of the box.  Back in the day, it was assumed (although not disclosed in the advertising) that someone building a ship model knew a fair amount about their subject matter and in order to build a good model that knowledge was a prerequisite. The level of detail in the old plans and instructions presumed the modeler's knowledge of basic seamanship and nomenclature. Other than Underhill and Davis, available from specialty mail order houses, modeling tutorials were hard to source and the internet was decades in the future.
 
I think those of us who straddle the ship modeling kit generation gap will agree that the biggest difference modernly is that the level of general competence in the ordinary manual arts has dropped to the bottom of the barrel. Wood and metal "shop" and "mechanical drawing" aren't taught in high schools like they used to be. Relatively few younger people have woodworking skills beyond those required to assemble something out of an IKEA box. (Speaking of which, I expect today's kit manufacturers also appreciate the "knock-down" characteristics of POF and POB technology of POF which minimize shipping and warehousing costs.) Moreover, the power tool industry has convinced us all that their expensive machines are essential to produce high quality work all at the expense of the acquisition of skill in the use of hand tools which can usually do the same job at a much lower cost when employed by a skilled user. 
 
The spectacular open-framed "as built" and "Navy Board style" models certainly have their place, but for the modelers who have yet to attain the highly refined level of skill necessary to build them, solid hull models, or "laid up" "bread and butter" hulls should not be overlooked as an option in building a fine model. Kits have their place, if for no other reason than to serve as the "gateway drug" for the modeling hobby, but it's a quantuum leap from LEGO to building a fine traditional ship model, and it should be. Not everything should be "dumbed down" for consumption by the masses.

I personally enjoy building “solid” models by which I mean those carved from a block of wood vs planked on bulkheads.   The term block encompasses various laminations; by waterlines, buttocks, etc. with the inside removed to leave a thick shell.  For me, shaping the hull with chisels, spokeshaves, and rasps is an enjoyable part of the model building process.
 
Accurately shaping the old machine carved solid model kit hulls was complicated by the lack of a flat datum.  I, therefore, build my carved hulls as two half models.  This allows me to maintain a flat surface that the hull can be layed on when checking the carving process with templates.  
 
Roger

POF - if fully framed it fills the spaces, but it is far more complex than POB.   I have done scratch POB on a couple schooners in the past and tripled the number of bulkheads that is usually found in kits so too much space between them was not an issue.   It would be fantastic if the kit makers at least doubled, if not tripled the number of bulkheads.  This would give in the neighborhood of 30-35 bulkheads, far short of the 100 or so frames of a fully framed ship, but it should make things much easier than making filling blocks and would be sufficiently strong to support single planking versus the need to double plank.  I realize there is a cost in every piece added, but if the first layer of planking is eliminated it would offset some of the cost of the bulkheads.   Just a thought.  
Allan

Be sure to start a build log, Pete, this would be a very interesting build of a model rarely seen on this forum and you'll get a lot of helpful advice if you need it too from some very experienced modelers. Good luck on your build!

In general, I am of the opinion that with a few notable exceptions (Byrnes and Sherline) when it comes to power tools, “they don’t make ‘‘em like they used to.”  My shop is, therefore,  equipped with old, solidly built, equipment.  
 
On the other hand I would be leery about buying a used scroll saw.  My old power tools all have separate motors with power transmitted to the tool by V belts.  If the motor dies or if the tool is underpowered it is a simple matter to replace it with a new or more powerful one bought from a local electric supply house.  V belts, likewise are stocked by hardware stores.   Scroll saws, however, almost always are powered by “integral motors.”  The motor is built right into the tool.  If the motor on one of these dies, or if the internal transmission system fails repair probably means dealing with the manufacturer- possibly one overseas.
 
Roger

I'm pretty low-tech and don't know my way around fancy CAD programs and the sort, but I have learned to make do with simpler approaches using a computer to scale and print sections/molds.  This can be a daunting process, but this is how I've done it for at least 40 ship & small-craft models:
1. Photograph (or scan) the sections.
2. Using Preview (or whatever image app), cut the bow and stern views apart, and flip-copy-paste to get full sections, such that they appear as thus for the bow:

3. Close-crop the sections the widest part (at station 6)-- get the breadth at this point.
4. Drop the image into Microsoft Word, and enlarge/shrink the image so it is as wide as it should be IN-SCALE for printing-- remembering of course to subtract the planking thickness.
5. Ditto for the stern sections, ensuring they are matched size/scale.
6. Print, cut out, and paste to bulkheads. 
 
There is of course a bit more to this-- I had to draw the curves of the deck on each station, and I trimmed off mold patterns at the deck.  The bulwarks will be built up on false timber heads.  The transom of the Gjøa is not 'expanded' (depicted perpendicularly to its rake) in the plans, so I had to loft that out by hand, as shown here-- rough work, for sure, but will be fine-tuned later: 

This again was photo'd and scaled on Word-- the stations are spaced 7', so scaled they needed to measure 2-5/8" on Word before printing. The breadths of the transom were pulled from the plan-view.
 
Here is progress on the hull so far . . . I do things a little odd, in that I place the keel and stem on later-- this makes the clamping of garboards and adjacent lower planks easier for me (I plank down from about 2/3 the way up the hull). 

More later!

This isn't a top of the line scroll saw but I find that for the price it is very good.  Well built and not much vibration when running.  Used with out bolting it down on my workbench and had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4N9L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This isn't a top of the line scroll saw but I find that for the price it is very good.  Well built and not much vibration when running.  Used with out bolting it down on my workbench and had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4N9L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This isn't a top of the line scroll saw but I find that for the price it is very good.  Well built and not much vibration when running.  Used with out bolting it down on my workbench and had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4N9L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Video Library – Foredom Electric Company also is an excellent resource that is on thier website

Try contacting the Foredom company online or calling them.  They are an excellent company that will assist you with any questions. Contact information: 
Email customerservice@blackstoneind.com Phone
800-272-2885 or 203-792-8622
Monday through Friday
8:00 am –  5:00 pm (ET) I have contacted them several times when ordering replacement parts. Very helpful staff and efficient company.  There website is excellent and contain a huge amount of information.  Try using the serial number off the label on your machine in the search box or use it as a reference when calling them. There tools last for decades but you want to make sure you order the proper insert for the flex line.  I wish you luck, I love my Foredom tool and look forward to using it when I  can.  I even purchased the Vanda-lays Acra mill plus to use with the tool to give it better options for control. Expensive but it allows the full use of the tool and they sell a clamp set yp that works with the Foredome # H.30 and H.44 handpieces.  

Hi Everyone, this build of a 44’ North Carolina Oyster Sharpie will be my first scratch build. The plans were bought from US Vintage Model Yacht Group. ( USVMYG ) They are drawn by Thomas A Pratt, taken from the lines of Howard Chapelle. They are a digital download with the plans and directions for a 50” model on one pdf and photos and directions of a 50” model being assembled on a second pdf. Acrobat Pro was used to scale the drawings to 1/24 ( 22”) using the tile function to print them out. All of the measurements are taken directly from the printed drawings. Detailed instructions are given on how to make the build board but I’m using the adjustable board that I already have. The inner stem is made first.
 



 

 

 

 
 
The inner stem is made from 1/4 x 1/4” basswood strip with one side planed at an angle so that the adjacent side is 1/8” wide. When all four pieces are glued together the forward side will be 1/4” wide to accept the 1/4 “ stem. Notches are cut at this time to accept the shear logs and the chine logs.It is mounted to the build board and all measurements are taken from this point.. The hull lines are all straight so I took the measurements from the drawing and started making frames from 1/16” strips of basswood.


 

 

 
The frames are attached to the build board using 4-40 hardware to eliminate any cutting later on. Notches are cut for the keelson which consists of three 1/8” strips of wood. The king plank sits on top of the frame and will eventually be adjusted for the curvature of the deck. Three 1/8” strips were used in case the center piece needs to be removed for the center board. ( But that probably won’t happen)
 

 

 

 

 
Once the center strips of the keelson and king plank were attached, vertical supports were added for the masts and bulkheads for the trunk, cockpit and hatches. Then the outer strips were added and more vertical supports were added so that the whole structure is 3/8” thick.



 

 

 

 
The two areas where the masts will be stepped are built out so that they are 1/4” square and then boxed.
 

 

 
 
The plan is to box in the entire bulkhead former and then add lateral supports for the frames before attaching the chine logs. Hope to see you soon.
 
 

The boat I was inspired by is a 7.5m " Mamma rosa "

I  think you are looking for the manufacturer called: Master-Korabel.
below the link:
 
http://master-korabel.ru/index.php?act=subsec&id=64

Mark is giving good advice Pete. I scratch built a crabbing skiff and used water/white glue mix. it worked well. to also stop the fraying you can use two way tape along the perimeter which works well. heres a picture of my KRUSTY CRABB

Pete,
Try a mix of water and white glue at 50-50.  Test it.  You might have to go down on the glue.  If use this, form the sail and then let the cloth dry.  It can add a nice billow.
 
I've also seen hairspray, starch, and matte finish (diluted) polyeurtothane varnish used.
 
Oh... and did I mention test... test.. test before putting anything on the sail?

This wonderful model of RMS Servia was started in the 1960s or 70s and was never completed. About 90% of the parts to finish the model are available. I was hoping to get this model finished for my own interest, but time passes, space is limited, and interests change. 
 
She was started by Wolfgang Buce, of Maine, and is available for pick up for $1000 USD. 
 
She should be in a Cunard office somewhere, which was the original intent for the model but, again, time and interests change. 
 
Shipping this across the US or Canada is possible but crating and shipping charges will run easily over $2000 USD. 
 
 

Many new builders here have started with the three-model Model Shipways series. There are many build logs for these models as well on this site. 
 
Each model is also available for sale separately, as are the paints, etc.

It appears to be a main staysail. This sail is a fore-and-aft rigged sail attached to the main-mast. It's the same as a mizzen staysail, but on the mainmast.
 
 

Needs a new flex shaft.  On\off, no speed co control bug I plan to add a foot control.  Mounted on  cast iron blocks but can be removed and hung up.  Runs good and I got it cheap enough that I don't mind putting some more money into it.