grsjax

Yes, I've been following her progress on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/saxonship - fascinating stuff. You can even pay to own one of the iron rivets holding her together.
 
But not - NOT - a Viking ship. She's Anglo-Saxon (well, Anglian, actually).
 
Steven

Purchased this kit used off eBay recently, was looking for a fairly easy kit to introduce my younger brothers-in-law to ship modelling, so they will be helping me out with this build. Am also eager to return to a larger-scale Dory, as my first ever build was the 1:24 Lowell Grand Banks Dory from MS.

Have gathered some essential tools for this build, which will be worked on when my wife and I visit her family.

Have also traced the sails from the plans, which my wife will make. I'm hoping to make this boat water-tight so that it could potentially sail in the pool.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I'm about finished with the model I've been working on (Midwest Chesapeake Bay Flattie) and beginning my next one.
 
The Light Melonseed is a small skin-on-frame sailboat designed by Dave Gentry and based on Jersey Melonseed gunning skiffs.

If you want to check it out, here is a link:
http://gentrycustomboats.com/Melonseed.html
 
 
I purchased the plans and intend to build the full-size boat once I have the space to do so. Until then, I will be building a scale model and posting the progress here.
 
This will be my second boat/ship model and my first "scratch" build. The main difference with a kit here is that I need to plan and acquire all the materials and fittings as well as cut out my own frames and stuff like that.
 
This will also be interesting in that it is a skin-on-frame design, so instead of being planked, it will be "skinned".
 
I ordered my lumber from Model Expo. I will be able to match scale dimensions perfectly for most components of the boat by laminating pre-cut strips. I will be doing a good amount of laminating for this model.
 
The lumber.

 
Building a "strongback" that will facilitate accurate framing of the boat.

Don't email Model Expo.  They never seem to respond well.  Call them directly.  I have had good luck that way when getting replacement parts.

I've had this book on the shelf for years, and was finally inspired to make a model of the canoe featured in it.  The book, which is un-dated, comes with fold-out plans and complete instructions. I'm building it in 3/4"=1' scale, from paper and wood.  First. . . the book: 


The canoe has a lugsail, and perhaps a little pretentiously, a forestay and shrouds.  A daggerboard is used, along with a foot-steered rudder.

I can't read or speak German, but fortunately, Google translate makes quick work of the text, so there won't be any issues there . . .
 
The hull is markedly Swede-form, and has slab sides and a flat bottom.  Just five molds/frames are used to build the boat.  Lofting doesn't get much easier than this.  I inked it right on the paper that will be the hull-- the paper is about 1/16" thick, is dense pressed, and has a very polished finish. . . anyone know what this paper is called? (I get it at the local artists' 'scrap' store.)


After cutting out the panels, I glued up the five frames onto the floor panel.  With this dry, I glued the side panels onto the frames, bending the bottom up at the ends so it's edges mates flush with the curve (rocker) of the side-pieces.  Hmmm . . . I'm almost done!  

I am old enough to be shocked at the current prices of most things.  I still remember the 1970 annual salary of my first civilian engineering job -$12,000.  The company had contracts to build nuclear power plants and was willing to pay me a premium for my navy nuclear experience.  When the local school district offered my wife a teaching job at an annual salary of $7,500, with a combined salary close to $20,000 we felt that we were making “the big bucks.”  52 years later, spending $250 for a model kit is something that I would not take lightly, to say nothing of $1000.
 
On the other hand, if I was to buy a model kit, whether it cost $250 or $1000, I would want it to meet certain criteria:
Is it based on solid research?
Does the construction method produce an accurately shaped hull?
Does the finished model accurately represent its historic prototype?
Are the kit materials of a quality that can be used as intended by the kit designer?
Are supplied prefabricated parts; fittings, decorations, etc generic or unique to the model being built?  
If generic fittings like blocks deadeyes are included, are they correct scale and correctly shaped?
Will kit supplied materials be durable over the lifetime of the model ( assume 25-50 years)?
Is documentation well written with correct grammar, and clear to scale drawings?  Supplemental information regarding historical research would be desirable.
 
While I have no intention of downsizing in the foreseeable future, I am beginning to realize that I might not always have the luxury of a full sized workshop.  When  and if I am consigned to a “Luxury Resort for Active Seniors,” a $1000 kit meeting the above criteria may well be a better buy than a $250 one that does not.
 
Roger
 

Don't email Model Expo.  They never seem to respond well.  Call them directly.  I have had good luck that way when getting replacement parts.

THE ANALYSIS AND CONSERVATION OF TWO 18-POUNDER CARRONADES FROM THE U.S. NAVY SCHOONER SHARK
A Thesis by BRENNAN P. BAJDEK Submitted to the Office of Graduate Studies of Texas A&M University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS
 
The_Analysis_and_Conservation_of_Two_18.pdf

Well it turns out the massive main hatch wasn't big enough. I made a measurement booboo which meant that the hatch was 1 cm too narrow. So...I had to rip everything out and redo most of the supporting structures.
 

After I made the repairs I started on the main hatch coamings and ledges. They were assembled by forming the same 90" radius for the longitudinals and the 26" radius for the ledges (concave and convex) and milling half lap joints. A strip was laminated onto the logitudinals to form an inside rabbet while the rabbet was milled into the ledges before they were bent. The strip on the longitudinals was extended to overlap the gap on the ledges. 
 

 
 
The cross pieces (battens) were tricky to make and I will redo them at some point in the future. The end stops are very difficult for someone of my limited chiseling skills. They too must be bent to match their respective orientations.



Mast parteners were straightforward and dropped about 2mm below the carlings and the underside rounded up to fit the respective curves. The mast is raked 2 degrees so I was as precise as I could be in positioning it (although it is not glued in place yet). The companion coaming abuts the forward end of the parteners and will be later fitted with a ladder.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Ian

Time for a brief update. Everything has gone without too many redos 🙂. I must say David’s book explains things very well and I rarely have to go beyond it for guidance. A few notables: 
 
I found my self-levelling laser quite helpful for getting things to stand vertically. If I would just find the energy to build a proper height gauge I would accomplish the same goal, but the laser is a pretty good substitute.
 
When it came time to make the windlass pins I was puzzled about how to make a round hole on both holders considering each holder is in two parts (pins and retaining caps). This is likely elementary to many of you. My solution was to first slice the mid part of where the hole would go using a slitting blade. I then made sure I could get a solid clamp with my mill so that it would hold firmly when I used my 3/8 inch Brad bit. 
 
The carlings for the huge main hatch follow the deck sheer so they should be pre-bent before installation.
 
Ian
 
Laser setup.

 

 
Checking deck beams for height.

 
Hole for windlass pins and retaining caps.

 
Windlass pins installed.

 
 
Carlings, hanging and lodging knees.

 
Forward starboard bulkhead made of baltic birch core and 9 inch holly planks with dados to key into pawl post and windlass pin.

 
Forward starboard bulkhead installed.

 
Capstan holder (unattached). Tapered to be level.

 
View from stern.

 
Bow to stern.

Greetings. I debated for some time whether I should start a log given my relative lack of experience with a scratch build. Indeed, I started this build around three years ago and shelved it for two years mainly because of health issues but also because I think I just got lazy. I don't have a lot of pictures and the ones I do have are probably a bit poor but once I get to present day that deficiency will be remedied. The 2 main reasons I am proceeding with this log are that I need to ask questions and get help from the more knowledgeable among you and secondly I have always found that a log inspires some needed motivation.
 
The Hayling Hoy was documented and produced by David Antscherl and presented in 3 plan sheets and a book entitled - The Hayling Hoy - First Fully Framed Model
 
Ian






 
 

As a retired librarian I have to suggest the possibility of donating them to your local library. That's one way that many people can enjoy them. 

Today it is Sunday and also the first day of Springtime. A perfect day to start a new log for a new project. 
A small remark before starting:
This will be a log for Sunday sailors and freshwater mariners.😁
 
I think this will be a fairly long project. Below you will find the impetus for the index. As the log grows, this index will grow with it and allow to quickly navigate to the desired paragraph.
 
Index
Chapter I. Introduction
Chapter II. Hull 
1. The building board
2. Making of the frames
3. Keel, stem and rudder post
4. Horn timbers
5. Transom
6. The wales
7. Planking the hull
8. Floor timbers
9. Centerboard case and Centerboard
10. Bottom boards
11. Thwart
12. Cockpit coaming
13. Mast tabernacle
14. Step of the mast and peripherals
15. Bulkhead
16. After deck beams
17. Assembly of the prepared sections
18. Laying the deck
19. Rudder and tiller
Charter III. Spars and rigging
1. Blocks
2. Cleats
3. Bowsprit (jib boom)
4. Mast
 
 
Chapter IV. Sails
Chapter V. Conclusions

when I bought the kit,  it was simply called the Norden.    with this model,  the name is located on the front of the pilot house.   in the case of the Cux 87,  it was located on the stern.  basically,  most fishing companies number their boats,  and usually they are on both sides of the bow.  there are some companies {North Atlantic trawlers and deep sea fishing vessels}  that will put the name of the ship on the bow.
 
I do hope I'm reading the discussion correctly,  because I didn't know there was a proper way to display a ship.  I always display my models on the side that came out the best   

I have been given a new MS USS Constitution kit. I am an experienced wood carver, have carved award winning birds, see pictures attached. I use hand carving tools and micro power carving tools regularly. I had an accident 12 years ago and lost the motor nerve for my right bicep. My hand is still functional but I can not raise my arm. I routinely use my right hand to hold my carvings when working. I was right handed but relearned how to carve left handed. I have been reviewing the build logs for Conny and thought I could accomplish the build until I got to the section that involved the lines securing the cannons and the rigging. I do not see anyway that I could accomplish that. If I completed the build to that point and it was a quality build is it likely that anyone would be interested in doing the rigging?

Nothing fancy, just some basic hand tools that would be a good starter kit for someone just getting into modeling.
The tools are old and there is a bit of rust on some of them but all are usable.
If you are willing to pick up the cost of shipping they can be yours.
Cleaned up the tools a bit and added another file.  May add a few more tools as I continue to clean out boxes of old stuff.
 
 

A long time ago I did some work with aluminum and welding it.   Not for the faint of heart.   Usually needs a inert gas to be present around it and extreme temperature control.  Not worth the hassle unless you're doing something an aircraft or auto body.  Also, dissimilar metals create other headaches.  Go with the all brass.
 
Your castings are probably so-called "pot metal" or "britannia metal" and isn't suitable for soldering.

Nothing fancy, just some basic hand tools that would be a good starter kit for someone just getting into modeling.
The tools are old and there is a bit of rust on some of them but all are usable.
If you are willing to pick up the cost of shipping they can be yours.
Cleaned up the tools a bit and added another file.  May add a few more tools as I continue to clean out boxes of old stuff.
 
 

Nothing fancy, just some basic hand tools that would be a good starter kit for someone just getting into modeling.
The tools are old and there is a bit of rust on some of them but all are usable.
If you are willing to pick up the cost of shipping they can be yours.
Cleaned up the tools a bit and added another file.  May add a few more tools as I continue to clean out boxes of old stuff.
 
 

Nothing fancy, just some basic hand tools that would be a good starter kit for someone just getting into modeling.
The tools are old and there is a bit of rust on some of them but all are usable.
If you are willing to pick up the cost of shipping they can be yours.
Cleaned up the tools a bit and added another file.  May add a few more tools as I continue to clean out boxes of old stuff.
 
 

Nothing fancy, just some basic hand tools that would be a good starter kit for someone just getting into modeling.
The tools are old and there is a bit of rust on some of them but all are usable.
If you are willing to pick up the cost of shipping they can be yours.
Cleaned up the tools a bit and added another file.  May add a few more tools as I continue to clean out boxes of old stuff.