mfrazier

3 hours ago, Ages Of Sail said:

is this contains double plank on bulkhead construction in lime and walnut, complete with pre-cut gunport strips?

Yes

17 minutes ago, Bertu said:

mfrazier, I am currently building the caldercraft HMS Victory.  The dimensions for the fire buckets supplied with the kit are:

Height: 5mm

Base diameter: 2.5mm

Top diameter: 3mm

 

Robert

Thank you. That was about the size I  calculated . I just thought it was a little small, but evidently it was correct. Thanks for the confirmation. I am working on a way to make them from scratch. 

Well , I  have a problem  but I  will be able to work with it. Like I  said, I  discovered I was not a master of the scroll saw. I couldn't get that thing to control for nuthin' . Only after I  got everything cut out ,I  broke the blade and put a little bigger blade in and WOW.... I can follow a line with ease. But too late now. Some of the slots in the bulkheads were a little rough and filling them straight, I got some a little off. This throws them way out at the outside.  Sooooo.... there are a few bulkheads that will have to be shimed on one side and ground off on the other side. It will make planking a real chore, but I  think I  can overcome the problems caused by my inability to run that saw. I rough faired the hull to get an idea of how much trouble I was in. I am putting in the gunport frames now and will Fair it some more. I will post pics when the gunport frames are done. The hull looks okay until I  lay a plank along it. Then I see the low and high spots.  I will sand the high spots and shim the low while planking.

Everything is glued and all seems square and straight. The hull is very solid. I am ready to start fairing the outside of the hull  and a little finish sanding on the keel. After that I  can start the gun port frames.  

I recieved the chapter one and chapter two kits and the quality and fit is absolutely amazing.  Chuck has done an amazing job on these kits.

I ordered planking lumber from Syren today. I think I  have figured a good way to rip it to size on my table saw. We shall see.

47 minutes ago, JToma said:

It looks like they turned out well though.

They are certainly not the quality of the laser cut parts, but I think they will work ok. ( pictures make everything look better). I will know when I  fair the hull , how good they are.

I got the rest of the bulkheads cut out. What a grueling process it was. I found out that I am not a master of the scroll saw.  Thank God for the disc sander.  I was all over the place with the saw cuts. I just stayed WAYYYY outside the lines and ground them back to the lines. There must be a trick to making that saw go where you want it to, but I sure don't know it. I couldn't control it. I thought I  would have got better towards the end  ..... but I  didn't. 

    Well now that is done I can get to the rabbit strip when it arrives.  I am looking forward to this build. I am now thinking about ways to rip the planking when I  get the blocks.

13 minutes ago, Chuck said:

No its fine.....it was just your photo.  It looked funny and it wasnt until I looked at it closer did I notice it was OK.  

 

Chuck

That's a relief . Had me worried for a second. 😁

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Make sure you wait until the stem and keel pieces are glued to the bulkhead former and you taper the bearding line before gluing the bulkheads in.  You will have a really hard time otherwise.  
 

 

I understand.  They are only dry fit at present. 

I'm not sure I  understand what you mean about the first bulkhead being too small. It goes all the way down like you said and I  looked at the other builds and they look the same to me. I  am double checking everything before I do any gluing and waiting for the chapter one and two kits to  arrive so I can do the rabbit strip. I  will probably finish cutting out the last bulkheads  today.

Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't thought about that. I have the first seven bulkheads  dry fitted and they seem ok. I will watch the rest closely.

Mark Frazier 

I discovered a problem. When I  cut the 3 pieces for the hull former, I  should have left them oversize on the bottom and sanded after gluing together. I sanded and then assembled.  I ended up with the front and rear ends touching the build board and about 2 mm clearance in the center.  While this may not have been too bad , I  feel it needs to be FLAT. My solution was to glue a couple thin layers of basswood strips from my junk box.... I  mean inventory  .... to the bottom and I glued some sandpaper to  a 30 inch flat board and sanded the whole length flat. Worked great. Now the former is perfectly flat on the bottom. 

I have ordered chapter one and chapter two kits from Syren. As soon as they get here,  I  am ready to proceed.

I  place a piece of aluminum angle, that I  cut in the machine shop, on each side with clamps. This holds the bulkheads square while the glue dries. This will take longer as I  can only do two , maybe four in a day, but they will be right.

Before I  install the bulkheads,  instructions say install the rabbit strip and keel, so that is next. It seems it would be more difficult fairing with them on first, but I  will follow the instructions. 

Got the build board done. I made extra 90 degree support blocks in case I  need them. Now I  can start gluing bulkheads  as soon as I  cut the rest.

The first seven bulkheads are dry fitted. I will glue the bulkheads after I  mount the frame in my building board. It has been years since I used a scroll saw. It is a learning curve trying to follow the lines smoothly.  I will cut some more bulkheads tomorrow. 

6 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Love this idea👍. Looking good so far.

Thanks. I used a french curve to trace curved lines. Makes it easy to transfer a perfect copy of a curve.

Cut the three pieces and glued them together.  I got a good fit on the joints. I also glued a support block on each side of the joints.  They shouldn't be in the way of anything but if are I  can chisel them off.  I am pleased with it so far. I will mount this on a build board and spend the next several days cutting out the bulkheads. 

Thanks, that's a good idea. 

I  printed the bulkheads prints on 8 1/2 x 11 Avery label sheets. They stick on the wood for cutting , but peel off easily with no residue.  The weekend will be spent cutting them out. I will make sure to transfer the laser marks when removing the pattern. NOTE: Make sure if you use Avery Label stock, use the " easy peel" label stock. It is the removable one.

Left this morning, 55 minutes later got to Staples when they opened and they printed the large sheets and the three I  couldn't print. So all is well now.

used carbon paper to transfer the drawing onto wood. Worked great. 

( staples told me to use graphite paper, but then said they didn't carry it. So I bought carbon paper.)

I can start cutting this morning. 😁

7 minutes ago, Chuck said:

You dont have a staples or office depot near you?  You could even try your public library.   You really should get the four large plan sheets done as well.  You can probably send them to staples online from their website and they will ship them to you.
 

chuck

Yeah ...... the nearest one, Staples, is about 45 to 50 minutes.  I'm  heading over tomorrow.  ( this town died when all the mills shut down. It's great if you want a restaurant, lawyer, doctor,  but there ain't much else around here. I'm retired so I  don't go many places.)

My wife bought me a new scroll saw today just for this project.

and I  bought all the 1/4 plywood the hobby shop had. I will start cutting the bulkheads and false keel this weekend.

23 minutes ago, Matt D said:

Mr. Frazier, I was in the same spot a few months ago.  I learned that you can set your printer to print that page on 8-1/2x14 paper.  It will try to auto-scale it to fit.  But if you set the scale to 100%, it will fit on the page and print the right size.  Also, please make sure you print everything with the scale set to 100%.  I have a complete frame set that is at .95 scale.  It was a hard lesson that I’d hate to see you repeat.

My printer prints on 8 1/2 x 14 but the false keel prints are 11 x 17 and won't print actual size on the 8 1/2 x 14. They get cut off. I can print everything else actual size. There is an office supply store about an hour drive from me that says they can print them. Looks like a road trip this weekend , I  guess. I just don't want to mess the prints up and ruin a bunch of plywood. I thought about cropping the prints to just the printed area and maybe the would fit, but don't want to chance messing them up.

9 minutes ago, JToma said:

Kinkos can probably do that for you. They can also print the large plans

There isn't one of those anywhere near me.  Most of those places in this area are gone. I may have to search for someplace in another city. Hope there is one in decent driving distance.

I printed the plans for this project , but I  think the false is the wrong size on my printing. I notice it says the document is 11 x 17 inches.  This won't print on a standard home printer. Does anyone know where is a good place to get them printed? I think my printer scaled them down to fit on 8 1/2x 14. I can't print them actual size. I will have to sort this before I  cut up all this plywood. All the rest of the plans printed actual size on letter and legal paper. It is just the false keel.

I am having a hard time deciding between the Alaskan yellow cedar or the cherry. I have decided on semi scratch built.