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Everything posted by Matt D
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I’m nearly done with chapter 9 and want to show some of my progress. As you can see, it hasn’t been without problems. I broke the forecastle rail on both sides. I’ve repaired the port side, which broke at the third timberhead opening while I was sanding the edge. The starboard broke the same way, but got much worse while I was trying to finish the installation. It was back together and then came apart while I was trying to slide the rail into the right elevation. I’m going to let the glue dry on the timber heads and then fix the railing. I’m pretty sure I can fix it and hide the repair.
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That looks like a fantastic trip! I’ve seen the Rhine River cruise ships in Cologne and thought it looked Interesting. I hope you have a great time.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Matt D replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
This is very exciting, Mustafa! It looks like you're off to an excellent start. I really enjoyed your Essex build. I will click the Follow button on this one. -
HMS Granado by ir3 - CAF - 1:48 - POF
Matt D replied to ir3's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
That's amazing progress! I'm so glad you persevered through the frame 25 problems. I'm looking at the template issue and it looks like the 3d image shows either a notch for the sill or the sill and template occupying the same space. Are the deck clamps made for you or do you have to cut them out of wood stock? -
This looks like an excellent project, JJ! I’m very excited for you and looking forward to following your progress.
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Glenn, I’m really sorry that happened and I hope you recover quickly. Your build is coming together beautifully.
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Congratulations on your amazing model, Rusty. It has been a great journey and I've enjoyed watching your progress. It has also been great to be in this group with you. I'm looking forward to seeing how you display this beauty.
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- winchelsea
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Well done, Rusty! That looks great!
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I really struggled to find the area that you painted black. Do you mean between the molding and the grating? You did a fantastic job of it and I can imagine that it would have looked weird if you hadn't done so. That had to be some tricky masking and painting! It looks amazing, Rusty! You've done a fantastic job.
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- winchelsea
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Your head rails are beautiful, Rusty! The last two grating slats look like they will be tricky.
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- winchelsea
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That’s a beautiful display, Jim. Congratulations on your wonderful model!
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I think this would work fine, Gary. As Gregory noted above, the slots are the area that is most affected by the thickness. Once you have the bulkheads cut accurately, the thickness isn't very critical. Be sure to transfer the marks for the gun port sills to the plywood as accurately as possible. This is a fantastic project and we'd love to have you join us in building your own Winnie. One last thing to consider: are you buying the laser cut chapter sets from Syren and having them shipped to you? If so, then the incremental cost of adding the laser cut bulkhead set may be worth considering. I don't know your experience level with a scroll saw. I thought I did a really good job and then found out down the road that I would have been much better off buying Chuck's. Unless you're scratch-building the whole thing, it might be worth shelling out the dough for the laser cut set. Please don't take this as discouragement if that's what you really want to do, because I understand that as well. I really wanted to cut out my own bulkheads.
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Hi Gary. I can't answer your question about the 6mm lite ply. But regarding the false keel: it's designed in 3 pieces and shouldn't be built as one piece. The main reason is that it will tend to warp if it's not broken up. In fact, the middle piece is also reversed to negate the effects of any warping that might occur. One word of warning I will offer is to make sure your printout is done a 100% scale, not "fit to page". I have a second Winchelsea bulkhead set that's about 96% scale from learning that lesson the hard way.
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Thank you guys for looking at this. That seems like the most sensible way to fix it. I'll get to work carefully cutting the clamps back. I probably won't have anything to post for a couple of weeks. Between my two kids, we've got 3 lacrosse games and a track meet this week. I'm also hoping to go walleye fishing on Saturday. And I have to travel for work next week. April and May are going to kick my butt.
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Thanks for saying that, Chuck! And thank you for making this project happen. It means a lot to me that you put in the amazing work to bring this to us. Thanks, Rusty! I’ve been lucky to get some time to work on her lately. With spring sports starting, it’s going to get tougher soon. Thanks, Jim! I agree with you and JJ, too. Thanks, Dusan. This is the first time I’ve ever tried weathering. I used pastels because I as able to get a lot of colors. I mixed some dark grey with a deep rust red. To use the pastels, I scraped them with a blade into a dish. Then I applied them with a brush. Thanks, JJ. And thank you to everyone who liked my previous post. About those cap rails: I have a problem and need advice. You can see in the pictures that I have a gap between the beam clamp pieces and the curved cap pieces. This will look awful if I don’t fill that in. I think the best course of action is to cut the beam clamp back to the beam and then make a new piece out of 3/64 stock. Does that sound like a good idea, or is there a better option?
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Beautiful work, Rusty! Those head rails look really fun to build.
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