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src

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Everything posted by src

  1. src
    Hooked or not your joinery looks great! Sam
  2. src
    Me likey! Sam
  3. src
    Rich, How about 5 minute epoxy? You will have more working time and I think it holds better than CA. Just my 2 cents Sam
  4. src
    Thanks for the likes and encouragement. Wow Steve thank you!! Sjors, yea wood is great stuff. I have an ongoing debate with one of the metal workers where I work, I say wood is a superior product. He says metal is cause modern ships are built from steel, aluminum, etc. but I can theoretically at least walk into to wilds a build a shelter with nothing more than a rock and some tree branches. Anyway, I think I have come to a decision on my trucks, tomorrow I will reshape my knees and start on the trucks. This weekend being Mother's Day here in the States I won't get a lot done but some progress should be made. Sam
  5. src
    Rich, looks like you found a method that works for you, they look good! Sometimes I think thats half the battle, finding out what works for you. I may have to disagree with David for once, I think we are the sane ones. Wait, David, you said abnormal, maybe we're both right! Sam
  6. src
    Thanks Rich ! I'm enjoying the process. But I am finding, once you start modifying and "improving" a kit it becomes a situation if where do I stop?? I have had to pull myself back on a few occasions where I got tunnel vision on one part and was going to end up with various levels if detail. Sam
  7. src
    Ahhh... I see now. That does bring it more in line with Fully framed also. Thanks!! Sam
  8. src
    So we now have kit bashing and KIT Bashing! LOL. I am sure david is right about it happening all the time. Hang in there, slow and easy. If you go with some sort of drill template, maybe make it open on only one side like maybe the bottom side? Then you have a Go-No-Go gauge also. Sam
  9. src
    Russ, Thank you. I was somewhat concerned about things coming undone when I rigged. I know I am on the right track now. As far as the knees, I wondered the same thing. The parts came pre cut and more or less match the plans. The only thing I have to compare to is Fully Framed and those dimensions are completely different. So more like the red line? I can drop about an eighth of an inch before I hit my tenon, for that matter I can remake the entire assembly, it wasn't hard to make. Feel free to modify the photo if its easier to explain. Sam
  10. src
    Rich, Robbyn, Thanks! Quick update. While I noodle over how I want to make my trucks I am making the various bits and assorted furniture. I have made the Fore Jeer and Sheet Bits. I think thats what they are called. I am pretty pleased with the Jeer Bits, I may remake the Sheet Bits, they are a little inconsistent on the chamfers. I was really pleased with my tenons on the Jeer Bits, I wish I had taken pictures, they are the cleanest scale tenons I have cut in mahogany since I started this build. I reinforced all the joints with pins after the glue dried. Once I get a few more parts made I will get some finish on everything. Hopefully this weekend I can make a cutter for the carriage trucks, I want to make them with flat stock instead of dowel rod. Mostly because I have plenty of flat stock and no dowel rod.
  11. src
    Wow Rich, there's a couple of canons on this one! Your gonna have fun rigging and lashing all those Sam
  12. src
    Steve, that looks great! The hooked scarf isnt really difficult. Like any joint its all in the layout. Take a look at this link. There is a picture about 1/2 way down, extend the line of the cheek/face to the end, then its just careful chisel work, no more difficult than what you have done already IMHO. Leave your points long and "sneak up" on them. http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Joints.html Sam
  13. src
    Rich, how are you at soldering? Maybe coy cut a piece of brass and solder some "T" brass to the edge - make sure you keep them square to each other then drill holes in the brass for the "nails." Use that as a drill template and locate your hinges to the holes? This is assuming constructo has drilled the hinges consistently of course. For your planks if it was me I would consider glueing up long strips instead of lots of short pieces. Maybe even leave them a bit wide to allow for any tear out when you cut those 1/2 round cut outs. If I was doing something like that full size I would glue up a double width and rip after the hole was cut. Two holes for one rip that way. Don't know if you have a way to do that at this scale? Sam
  14. src
    Thanks Duff, I was unaware of Gilmer. The one time I needed to buy hobby wood I went to either Hobby Mill or The Lumber Yard, cant remember which. Right at the moment life is interfering with Life again so I havent contacted anybody for a couple of samples. I am leaning towards something light colored like the box wood alhough both the spruce and alder might go well also. Decisions decisions.... Fortunately at the rate I am building it will be at least a couple of months before I really need to worry about masts. I dont mind winging it to a point but it is nice to have a plan in place first. Sam
  15. src
    That bow grate looks like it was quit the project, looks great! Sam
  16. src
    Mark, Will they be visible? Does it matter, or is it one of those, "I know they are there" kind of things? Sam
  17. src
    All, Thanks for your responces, a nice variety, just what I have come to love and expect here. Duff, I looked on The Lumberyards website and they dont list Costello, does it have another name? I may have to get 2 or 3 different color woods and see what I like. Thanks again, Sam
  18. src
    Steve, Your deck looks good, the variegated colors work well. sam
  19. src
    Steve, Are you going to use wood putty, wood filler or grain filler? Wood filler will dry and need to be sanded, that might be a problem with a sealed and possibly stained deck. You can stain and finish over wood filler after its sanded. Wood putty doesnt dry and is designed to be used after your clear coat is on. Grain filler is a thin paste that you can tint to most any color you want. Its primarily used to fill the grain on open pored woods like walnut, cherry and mahogany. Its one of the trick finishers use to get a glass smooth finish on those woods. Colored it can be used to control the contrast between your base color on your wood and the grain color. As an example on my Enterprise, I wanted to pores to be closer to my base color so before I stained I applied a coat of tinted grain filler after a washcoat of shellac. That allowed me to control the overall look. For your tree nails, I think any of the above methods will work although you mentioned you have sealed already. If you use filler you will have to sand and you most likely will go through the sealer and have to seal again, most likely not a problem. I think your easiest rout might be to finish and then wood putty. You will probably have to re-drill/re-dimple before you putty. Grain filler is a bit of an art, Rockler is only a few miles from you, a trip there might be a good starting point if you want to play with that. I think before you do anything you probably want to make a sample board first. Sam
  20. src
    Rich, I dont think you have anything to be envious about at all! Your joinery looks great, and the comb idea, Brilliant! Sam
  21. src
    Hmmmmmm Sjors It appears Siri cant spell. Nope, I had nothing to do with that at all, not me, no sir! Sam
  22. src
    You work fast shoes. May should be a good month. Sam
  23. src
    Rich, Augie brings up a good point. Halogen bulbs are a slightly different temperature. Check out this page if interested. http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/ctgy/colortemp Sam
  24. src
    Thanks Russ, I will look into that over the weekend. If it is similar to the alder I have used in the past on cabinets it can be a very nice wood to work with. The slight red tint might also be a good contrast to the rest of the wood tones. Sam
  25. src
    Steve, That looks great. Like J pointed out, it seperates the two dark woods nicely. Sam

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