cog

Here's part 2
As mentioned in previous post, the model has no crowsfeet, but it's a nice detail and I like the contrast between the black masttops and the light color of the thread.

Crowsfeet ? I love them
For the interested : the euphroe-blocks are made of styrene. Walnut was not an option
I fixed 2 small sheets of 0,5 mmm and one of 0.25 mm in the middle : thas was (more or less)  the suitable thickness.
A needle and a pin to obtain the best possible alignment to fore the 0.8 mm holes
The paint is from  the Acrylico Vallejo-brand and the 311 colortype is until now the closest to wood, at least in my opinion, some more filing before assembly and that was that.
Here's the pics (part I)

Here's part II
Last pic is dedicated to 1) MSW Staff : congrats regarding the software update and Ray : consulting his buildlog (HMS Diana fvinished +/- a year ago) made things more easier and comprehensable., Cheers Ray

Hi, at last an update : standing rigging (almost) completed !!
Heres's the pics (part I )
 
Cheers !

Gents - this is why this site is so great, everything has suddenly become clear (or at least clearer), so thank you!
 
Carl - All beautiful, but maybe a little fancy for the late 18th century and undoubtedly beyond my ability to carve!
 
Dirk - I see you had the exact same 'problem'.  Despite being an avid follower of your beautiful Confederacy I somehow missed that, so shame on me!  That shows the situation very clearly and was a huge help in thinking this through.
 
B.E. -  You raise a good potential issue with the arm, I think the casting is sufficiently soft to allow that to be bent, but experimentation will be needed.  In photos below you can see I've bent the arm tentatively, will need more attention but I want to wait until final profile is known to reduce the risk of it breakage due to repeated bending.  BTW, I repeatedly admire your custom Pegasus stern and added figures - much better than the kit provided knights - but maybe a little too ornate for these later frigates (I may be wrong, but I believe the Artois class may have been among the last 5th rates with full figureheads)
 
Photos of a quick-and-dirty proof of concept, so think I know where I'm going with this...trying to ignore the horrible paint finish on the casting but there is no point in making it look good at this point...
 

That's usually a problem Jan. I glue a bit of extra card each side of the frames to give some more gluing surface. I've seen others glue a strip of thin card onto the edge of each frame, but you would have to trim or sand the frames down the thickness of the extra card otherwise the skins won't fit properly - there's usually no margin for error.
 
I'd also suggest gluing at least one extra piece longitudinally between the frames to avoid "squashing" the skins when fitting them. There is no need to glue the skins to the extra bracing, it's just a safety measure.
 
  Danny

I couldn't resist: the dry-fit has been turned into a fully glued version.
Fit was good, and the results looks prettiy straight. Frames look a bit small to use as a basis fog gluing the skin on.

Jan

You are welcome Ed, just caught up with your build. I don't comment, just watch and learn. I noticed that your ratline fastening method is also employed on the Chilean four-masted bark "Esmeralda and the US Coastguard "Eagle." Interesting but logical. Saw it and made a few pics when in Quebec City in July.
Okay, I'll make one comment - beautiful work!
 
Cheers,

Beautiful work Hartmut.
 
Cheers,

Many thanks, Mates!
 
Marcus :  I use tempara paints.
Made by Lukas (Germany)       Yellow Ochre light (8031)
                                             Prussian Blue       (8134)
                                             Opaqe white        (8007)
                                             Ivory black           (8182)
Made by Schmicke (Germany)  sapphire blue       
                                            light blue
                                           
By Windsor & Newton (UK)     Cobalt blue deep
 
Best regards  Hartmut
 
 

A belated happy birthday Denis. Many more in good health.
 
Cheers,

Hi Elia:
 
Gluing the frames in tight quarters was a little bit of  challenge, but as long as I was able to use the machinist squares to stabilize them while the glue set they came out OK (but not perfect).  I used grey for the interior because I had no reference photos that showed the interior color.  I'm sure the yawl boat interior gets beat up pretty well during the oystering season (as the rest of Kathryn does) so I thought it was a practical color.  I'll probably find out if I'm far off in color when I visit Kathryn next month, so we'll have to wait till then.
 
Good to hear from you.
 
 
 

Frank
 
That's a great looking little yawl.  The keel jig looks like it worked well.  With the seemingly closely spaced frames were there any issues keeping them vertical during gluing?  
 
The little yawl looks great with its grey interior and matching white and red exterior.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Dan,
I could use a few on my plastic build ...  very meticulous work on that searchlight. Suddenly you are going fast with the super structure ... looking good. I added some glue on the rungs/steps of the ladders on my build, they tended to break of when I touched them again by accident - may be for a next time ....

Part 37 – Yawl Boat
 
Laws governing oystering in the state of Maryland have restricted dredging to sail-only for many years.  Recently however, the shortage of oysters and the difficulty in getting enough crew to man the oyster dredging boats 7 days a week has caused the state to relax the laws so that dredging can be done using the push boat (called a yawl boat in the Chesapeake) for power dredging 2 days a week.  This has resulted in most dredging boats only going out during their permitted 2 days.
 
The book “Working Skipjacks of Deal Island” by Brice Stump has some great photos of the yawl boat and its operator at work.  The following photo is from the book:
 
                        
 
The operator is helping the Kathryn’s captain maneuver the skipjack by pulling on the ropes on one side of the davit.
 
The configuration of the engine cover in this photo is different from the drawings in the HAER documentation.
 
                        
 
Obviously the yawl boat has been modified over the years, but since the model is based on the HAER documents that reflect how Kathryn was configured in the mid-1990’s, the yawl boat for the model will be built as it was in that timeframe.
 
The HAER documentation contains line plans for the yawl boat, so these drawings were used to develop the keel and frames for the model yawl boat.  The model frames are somewhat thicker than the real frames would be, but these frames would not be obvious in the model and the extra thickness provides some strength to support the planking.
 
                        
 
A holding device (a simple block of wood tapered at the correct angle and with a 1/8” groove milled in it) was made to hold the keel at the proper angle during assembly – this allows the frames to be set vertically.
 
                        
 
The frames were held during gluing by using two machinist squares.  Given the small size of the yawl boat I didn’t think it made sense to try to replicate the jigs I used in the installation of Kathryn’s frames.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rearmost frame is not absolutely vertical, but I didn’t think this would be a major issue. 
 
When all of the frames were in place, chart tape was used to line off the sheer and the chine.
 
                        
 
Using the resulting drawn lines, the sheer plank was installed on each side, and the tops of the frames were trimmed to the top of the plank.
 
                        
 
The side planking is 1/32” thick.  The sheer plank was made from 1/8” wide piece of madrone.  Since the sides of the yawl boat are straight, the rest of the side planking was made from a single piece of 1/32” castello that was spiled on top and bottom.
 
                        
 
There is a ‘locker’ at the aft of the cockpit, which will house one of the large blocks used to raise and lower the yawl boat.  This was added to the model, and the interior of the yawl boat was then painted a workmanlike grey.
 
                        
 
The exterior colors of the yawl boat mimic Kathryn’s color scheme, so the hull was painted next.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The superstructure of the yawl boat still needs to be built.  This will include an exhaust pipe for the boat’s diesel engine, and will be the subject of a future post.
 
In the intervals between each step of Yawl Boat construction I decided to install Kathryn’s deck planks.  This will be the topic for the next post.
 
 

ohhhhh.....you kidder ,  you!   thank you so much J.........really appreciate the birthday wish.   according to George Carlin,  I've gone 61 years around one.  I won't go into the rest of the skit.....kind of an ill thought       it was a nice quiet day though.....got my Haddock plate  

This may represent a transition period between the use of the two rub rails. I have seen these wider rub rails on other vessels from other parts of the US and you can sometimes see them used as a foot hold as they move along the side of the boat at sea. Maybe they kept it on for that purpose. I will continue to ask around to see if there is an answer.
 
Russ
 
 

The case is dry assembled, and after some fine tunings and adjustments everything fits perfectly!
It has a bit more flex than I thought, 3mm plexiglas is not so strong. Who knew! I used some test pieces to pick up the glass thickness, but when you have a larger plane - it flexes differently. The photo is a bit distorted, it actually have just 1mm of sag in the front and no sag in the back  (there is a 20mm square pear stock there).
To prevent sagging, will add a reinforcement to the top part of it, which will lock the front glass frame with the front frame of the case.
 
Now I can finally sand, finish and assemble it. Will use silicone to mount the glass and epoxy for the joints. When the top part is done, will rebuild the base out of thinner plywood - the base is probably 5x heavier than the case itself  
 
Also not sure how to plank the "floor" of the case (flat surface where the model will be). Planking it with pear would be boring, but I am on the edge between a lighter colour (that willow I cut down might come in handy) or a darker one (walnut).
Aaargh, hate do to the colour choices!
 

Very nice job on the case, Mike. I would take a contrasting colour to set the ship off. I think walnut will be to dark for the room where you will put it up. Your case might be very visible because of a dark colour. You have enough wood to put on top of the base and have a look at the influence a colour has both on the model and the surrounding area
 
Say hello to the missus and Daria. Hope they are doing well
 
Cheers

Great job!
Jan
 

Very nice work Danny, especially noting the scale you are working at.
 
cheers
 
Pat

That searchlight is outstanding. Looks like the real thing.

More progress. I've made and fitted the Anchors. These required quite a bit of delicate cutting :


 
The Depth Charge Rack was fairly straight-forward apart from the two small cranes :

 
The Searchlight took me a full day to make, mostly due to the Bracket - gluing it together could only be done one section at a time. The first pic is of the parts needed for it :





 
I also fitted a ladder, the RDF antenna and three railings around the searchlight :


 
The AA Guns and the forward Torpedo Tubes were fitted next :


 
Last I fitted two inclined Ladders and the railing to the aft end of the foredeck. It would have been a lot easier if I had painted the ladders before fitting them :


 
And here's a Progress pic of where I'm up to. The funnel assembly has been permanently fitted :

 
  Danny

Very nice work Hartmut,
 she is showing her future shape, and details. It won't be long before she is all dressed up and ready. Didin't know we Dutch had such colourful boots/yachts, when you look at the paintings from that period, we are wearing such a depressing dress colour

Doesn't look like a rubrail, mor like a "side walk" Why would they mount a narrow, and a wide rub rail ...? The logic eludes me ...