cog

Very impressive and accurate work. I always enjoy new pics from your progress. 

Best regards and a Happy New Year

You like to keep us on our toes, don't you ...
 
Steven, you could 'ave spotted it by the hughe tower from Yamato.It doesn't fit the bill either

You like to keep us on our toes, don't you ...
 
Steven, you could 'ave spotted it by the hughe tower from Yamato.It doesn't fit the bill either

thanks OC............it will look even better, when I can get some paint on her  
 
I went on a scavenger hunt last night........I was either looking for any place that had the gallows,  or an old billings fitting kit.  I found neither    this is what I got when I punched the uprights from the laser cut piece of plywood sheeting.

they all came apart........I even broke one    these are total garbage....the pieces above are the top parts.   all is not lost though    going further,  I'm still confused as to what these parts are for.........

dunno.......I'll figure it out.......the square part at the upper left is for a small crane that sits on the aft deck.........the two small rectangles are probably the basis for the vents that are arranges on the aft deck as well.   I had also been working on the kit and fittings kit supplied larger crane......this is to be a manual crane {while I'm at it........I'll take you on a walk through memory lane   }

for the Nordkap,  I motorized it,  giving it a motor {nach} and a control panel

there are the two vents I was talking about........the decals are interesting.........they are from an Cessna airplane kit decal sheet,  the image I saved on line.  the decals were made by Moody  .......seemed like a good brand name for the crane.   if you want to see how I made the crane,  I'll post it in the other Nordkap thread.  the framework for the winch is wood.......done here in thinner plyboard

I probably won't use the pulley parts.........I have some that I ordered from Cornwall,  that are brass....I just need to assemble them.   the assembly for the crane looks like this.......

I did manage to find it at Cornwall for about $30.00.   I still debating whether or not to pull the trigger.........the one supplied in the kit will enable me to put a railing around it.....an aspect I saw in the Progress pictures.  now........I did have two of the gallows from the older Nordkap fitting kit.....one of them I must have destroyed experimenting with it......the diagram looks like this.........with the footings.

but I have one to go by........I also have the other parts so I can make a pair.

I can make them like this........or I can bend the 1/4 square brass strip into an elongated 'U',  and make them to look like this:

I've seen many that look like this........I may go with it and save me some work   

Because there is a lot of painting on the ship ( I believe everything has to be painted) the updates are not coming quick.
But they are coming 😀
I painted the deck with a green color that match most of it with the original.
Maybe I will put a layer of varnish over it but that's almost at the end.
Also make the lowest cabin and paint it white.
 
Sjors
 

 

 

 

Coq,
 
No problem if you want to say something .
So no excuses please......
 
The cranes are make by 2 mm plywood.
When you put it together it will be a kind of box.
In my opinion it's the same as 25 years ago.

Good Morning Siggi;
 
The picture of Victory is interesting. If you look closely at the gunports, you can see that a narrow strip of wood has been nailed into the bottom of the port in the ship's side, to fill the space where the rebate would have been.
 
As an example of proper practice in the 18th century, I would not refer to the present Victory, though. As you probably know, she has been repaired and patched so many times that there is very little original left, and I would doubt that the present gunport lids are faithful replicas of those she had at Trafalgar or earlier. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Hello Karl,
 
the ports where caulked with oakum and fat

Greetings everyone;
 
Having seen Steel's description, sent by Druxey, I can now present a solution which we both agree is the most likely one. 
 
Steel specifies that the port stops must be a minimum of 3 to 3 1/2 " depending upon the rate of the ship.
 
The contracts I quoted in an earlier post state that the outer planking of the port lid is the same thickness as the outer planking of the ships side, and that this is backed up by an elm lining laid vertically and nailed to the outer planks of the port lid.
 
By the way Mark (SJ Soane, see post above) I never envisioned a rebate in the frame timbers. A misunderstanding somewhere along the line. Siggi's left hand sketch in post 201 was as I interpreted the contract description.  This has now been slightly refined, see attached sketch. 
 
The stop distance given by Steel is the distance by which the outer planking of the port lid overlaps onto the face of futtock or toptimber.  He also states that the lining is to be 1" to 1 1/4" thick.  This will be the thickness of the elm lining boards on the inner face of the gunport lid.
 
No extra work required, no need to form rebates, no need for the stated dimensions of the gunport to be reduced by a separate lining, and no need to fit the separate lining. 
 

 
All the best,
 
Mark P
Gun port sections002.pdf

Yes mate

Beautiful weathering work, Greg. She really looks like she's been at sea for a good while.
 
Looking at your post #173 I couldn't figure out why a WWI battleship would have a WWII funnel. Then looking further on I realised it was the funnel of the model behind her . . . Yamato?
 
Steven

I really lost the detail of the side armour panels. So I scribed them again and gave them a dark grey enamel wash to bring out the detail. 

Steven,
although it is a wooden built you could use part of a sewing pin to pin or strengthen such pieces. if the wood is soft enough, you wouldn't even need to predrill

Hull is primed and the waterline is marked.  

They have come out very nicely Steven; your persistence has paid dividends.  Every sub/mini-project is a learning process; the next batch should be faultless masterpieces then   
 
cheers
 
Pat

The figures give a great sense of scale to the structure. Lovely work! best wishes for 2019.

Work has finally commenced on the poor, neglected Arabia. My shoulder is slowly improving with rest; it's still sore but I've been able to cook and do dishes again. Driving my stick-shift truck is probably the most problematic behavior I can't avoid, but since I work at home I only have to do that once a week or so. Most importantly, I can cut, sand, glue, and paint!
 
I decided to tackle the boilers next. See my design thread for a full review of the original components, but below are reposted the two best photos I know of showing the boilers still at the wreck site.
 

The first decision I need to make was how to simulate the rivets joining the roughly 2' wide sheets of iron composing the boiler tubes and the skirting around them. I had already purchased a dowel of the right diameter for the boiler tubes (about 3.5' wide and 24' long). So I dug around in my scrap box and turned up a very thin sheet of scribed styrene originally meant to simulate siding for model railroad buildings. Experimentation showed that the scribing was perfect for allowing the sheets to bend around dowel, so I marked off three pieces necessary to wrap half of each dowel. I did only half because (a) the bottom half won't be seen and (b) this one piece of perfect scrap wasn't big enough to do the rest.

Next I experimented with punching divots into the styrene to simulate rivets. I tried a variety of tools, from pointed files to pencils, and finally settled on a small Phillips screwdriver that made nice indentations while being too blunt to go through the material. It was also more ergonomic to use than other options, important since I'd be doing a lot of this. Once I was happy with my method, I carefully measured out 2' increments along the boilers and began punching manually. I think the results look quite good, as seen below.

To attach these sheets to the boiler dowels, I laid a line of CA down the middle of each sheet and glued it to the dowel. Once that set, I laid another line of CA along one edge, wrapped and clamped that, then did the other side (see above). This worked nicely, though I had to work quickly to get the clamps set before the CA set. Next I started building a cradle to hold the boiler tubes and support the rest of the boiler structure, as seen below with the finished boilers.

Here are the boiler tubes resting in their cradle; you can start to envision the final product.

Next, I painted the tubes with the same black I used for the engines. It's a thick Model Shipways paint that does a decent job of blending different materials together and giving a metal-like finish. I'll dull the finish with some pastels.

Next, I started expanding the rest of the structure, adding details made of wood and thin styrene to simulate the various furnace doors, ash doors, legs, and other parts of the boiler assembly. I also added sheeting along both sides, using the same rivet-punch technique as the boilers.


That's where the boilers stand now. Next, I'll finish adding details and structural elements, finish painting, and weather it with pastels. Then I'll have to decide how much of the detailed piping I want to install, I don't think I can handle all of it, so I'll work out a reasonable simulation. If you go back to the design thread linked above, you'll see what I mean at the stern end of the boilers.
 
Still, I think this looks pretty good for something knocked together from mostly scrap parts, with a sore shoulder. On the finished model, it'll be somewhat buried in the shadows of the main deck, so I don't feel the need to simulate every detail. I'm a big believer in creating the illusion of accuracy rather than counting every rivet.
 
Thanks for sticking with me over the long delay.
 

But wait! There’s more! 
 
The large grey bootstrap. The waterline is midway but apparently they rubbed off really easily due to the lack of enamel during the war. 
 
So, a quick mask, some chipping fluid, some grey, rub it off a bit. I’m really happy with where I’m at with this. I can now airbrush a waterline with green grunge and white for salt. I’m interstate for a week so nothing will get done. Then my plan is to put the deck on perhaps then do weathering. 

Now the insides can be seen only through the illuminator or the door. 

Last boat at the davits, oerlikon platform, and started rigging the fo'csle, first two lower railings done ... in all, nearly three hours work ...
 

Thanks Pat, much appreciated
 
Added some ammo boxes, broke the top of the for'ard mast, so I've got some renovating to do. Whats left ... well ... working on the rear tripod, some touch up paintwork, the railings, a quad pompom which will arrive January next, rudder, anchors, need to give the hull a mat varnish, and after that the screws ... ah yes ... OC's favorite: rigging ... Still looking for some anchor chains at scale ... very hard to come by
 

You should take a look a pre-dreadnaught and dreadnaught type warships ... maybe they just were afraid of loosing an anchor ...

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

very nice details GL