cog

Thank you Yves,  a laid deck will obviously look more natural, and in my case certainly more in keeping with the build which won't match the purity of the etched deck.
It remains to be seen whether I made the right decision once I have completed the large amount of nibbing involved.
There may be a lot of loose nets lying around the deck. 😉
 
B.E.

So here's a first update: I had a bit of trouble with the hull pieces – not a Tamiya problem, but a 'my clumsy fingers' problem.
 
I had to work to get the waterline and hull sides to match up without noticeable seams, so I was sanding and touching it all up.
 
So far, I have the hull pieces together, and some initial deck elements added; also, for the first time, I airbrushed a model! I masked off the 'linoleum deck' sections and am relatively satisfied with the results. After years of relying on spray cans, I realized how delicate an airbrush coating can be, repeatedly leaving fingerprints and such on parts. Gloves on from now on!
 
Also... I dropped the damn thing when removing the masking, and bent the cleat at the very front of the bow, and the stern a bit. ARGH!
 
Next step is to detail the deck elements, TRY to add some detail to the 'ribs' on the linoleum deck areas, and move on to the superstructure parts.
 
Any C&C is welcome (very welcome)! 

Superbe, a very beautiful build Yves magnefique, you can't hide anymore your prowess in plastic builds, not with this result

Superbe, a very beautiful build Yves magnefique, you can't hide anymore your prowess in plastic builds, not with this result

Superbe, a very beautiful build Yves magnefique, you can't hide anymore your prowess in plastic builds, not with this result

Superbe, a very beautiful build Yves magnefique, you can't hide anymore your prowess in plastic builds, not with this result

Small update....
 
Sanded Hull First Cover, (Lime)
 
Pretty happy with the Hull thus far.
I think that I'll do the Walnut second Planking prior to completing/painting the Superstructure.
So, the Walnut Planking takes about 1.5 strakes per run, it's a long Hull.
 
I took some photos, Stern Post and Plan/Sheer view.
 
If I take the "Plan" view as opposed to the actual Keel dimensions, (Keel already attached),  I will not have to rewove 8 - 10mm from the height of the Stern Post/Rudder. (Have a look and give me your opinion!!)
I guess this is an A/L thing.... (Plan Error?)
 
I plan to remove a small rebate, Bow/Keel, to accommodate the 0.5mm second cover at these junctures. (Sharp Chisel)
 
I also plan to complete the Superstructure post second planking, so much dross/dust needs to be removed first....
 
Cheers and Regards,
 
HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 
 
 

Superbe, a very beautiful build Yves magnefique, you can't hide anymore your prowess in plastic builds, not with this result

Washes and a light spray of tan to make it look like the paint has been worn down with foot traffic working the decks 

Now to work on the deck 

I am waiting for a professional photographer friend to come over and do some nice quality pictures, but he is struggling with the software of his Sony cameras or too scared to come to my place.... Go figure. In the meantime, here are a few low quality pictures I took of the finished model.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I will try to add more pictures taken at night, as it is more dramatic.
 
Yves

Yup!

Good morning Druxey (et al)
I finally got back to it.
Is this image more along the lines of what you would have expected?
Alan

Unfortunately I do not have a mill, nor do I have the room in my shop to add one.  Might consider moving a wall.  It would be the third time. 
 
I cut my 4x13 blanks from 4x6x60 inch castello boxwood stock, plane them to thickness (within reason), cut those pieces in half and rubber cement them into matching pairs.  I trace my timbers onto the top of one blank set and scroll saw the pieces out keeping well outside the line.  This gives me the port and starboard halves with one cut.  Then the curves are sanded to the line on a oscillating drum sander.  The flats are sanded to the line on my disc sander.  I wish there was a market for sawdust.
 
The pieces are dry fitted on top of the pattern (my drawing) and once satisfied I then separate the halves and yellow wood glue the frames, floor and chocks together.  This is done on the paper pattern, with the pattern under a thin plastic sheet, to assure everything is correct.  The assembly is allowed to dry and cure for just less than 24 hours (probably 20 hours) then attached (glued) to the build and allowed to set another 20+ hours before the next frame is glued next to it.
 
I have three frames at various stages going at once so I have less waiting time.
 
I was taught how to properly use rubber cement, and to cut two pieces at once by a member of our local club. 
 
Most everything else I learnt from this forum from people like you! 
 
All the mistakes I've made I learnt on my own.  
 

@Jorge Diaz O
Thanks ! 

Also thanks to you all for the LIKES.

The ratlines for the mizzen mast are ready.


The preparations for the futtock shrouds are in progress.

@Keith Black
Thanks for nice comment. Also many thanks for the LIKES.

Another small stage of the standing rigg of La Créole has been completed: the ratlines of the mizzen mast are finished.
The integration of the shrouded ladders and the signpost blocks is still missing.


In the meantime, a small detail needs to be clarified once again. The side davits for the "Petit Canoes" of the corvette were made of iron and were lifted with a topping lift. These were shorn by single blocks on the mizzen mast.
How these single blocks were attached to the eyes of the ring fitting on the mizzen mast still needs further clarification. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of the original model of the relevant area, where one can see more details. In the documents available to me I could not find anything meaningful about this either.


In this respect a question to the experts here in the forum: How could the fixing of the single block/lead block and the continuation have looked like, e.g. as shown below?

 


I would be very pleased if I could get answers or hints and suggestions. - I would be very grateful if you could send me your comments.
See you soon ...
 

With the autumnal weather, the motivation to do less popular work comes back,
even if they are supposed to have a meditative character, at least that's the opinion of some of my fellow modellers ...😁

 

I'm still waiting for the lower tier of rowers   (Ducks for cover to avoid the dynamite)
 
That has turned into a very interesting and well executed model Steven, so I am guessing that  that if you are going with the same sort of theme - your new build will have crew to carve, be quite colourful and very rarely modelled?  Now what fits into that theme........
 
cheers
 
Pat

I didn't know Vikings had submarines! 

The completed model and its presentation are terrific!
 
[Moriarty voice]: Come here little fellow.
[Bluebottle voice]: Yes, my captain?
[Moriarty]: How would you enjoy a nice long cruise, blue waters and sunshine?
[B]: I'd love it. But...but... I have not got the pennies for it.
[M]: Don't you worry your little empty head, my lad. It's all free.
[B]: Even the blue waters?
[M]: Oh, yes, indeed. Walk this way up the gangplank...Now sit down here. (Sounds of locks, chains, hammers on anvils, etc.)
[B]: Oh, is the ankle bracelet free too?
[M]: Absolutely! And the best thing of all.
[B]: What is that, my captain?
[M]: You can't fall into the water now!
 

I can't cast a vote on any of the poll's questions, because I would need information on all manufacturers and their kits, which is impossible. This poll's results are in no way giving a true account of what it pretends to offer. I can hardly believe there is one person whom has bought a kit from at least 95%  of the manufacturers within a time frame that has had no major influence on the price.
It might be an idea to poll one's experience with the kit(s) build by that person.

"AK" has paint sets for the Eastern and Western approaches which are very close, so does "Lifecolor". BNA modelworld has both of them e.g. RN Eastern Approaches
 
doing great
cheers mate

For a "super model" a super "good"

How right you are.  His family name is “Goodheadforheights”
indeed the byzantine world encompassed a wide geographical and ethnic base - most of the known western world
And Larson WOULD have a duck take on the Viking helm😁
 
 

What's left for me to say, than: Outstanding work, Steven. I did not expect such a fast finish. You took me by surprise this time, well most of the times anyway. I am curious as to what you next build will be. Hat of to you!