coxswain

With a provisional masts installation this is how it  looks so far

G
Good Morning
 
Today I'll show you how I made "The Pedrero"
 
First.... I made it in wood.  This is going to work to form the mold


 
 
Second....... I use Clay to make the first half

 
 
Third........  I use high temperature Silicone..... The firs half is ready.

 
I use the first half to replace the clay and repeat the process to make the second half.  With a really sharp knife I do the little channels to evacuate the air at the time of the foundry.

 
As demolding agent I use a common powder.
 
The the foundry using a pewter kind metal

 
Aging Process

And instalation

 

A good start on the dead eyes, I have spent allot of time trying to decide  weather or not I was going to use black chain or thread for the chain plate, the instructions show thread and I also think the chain would not be correct for the time period of the ship, so I went with black thread. I think chain would look better but need to keep it somewhat correct. Also finished up the rudder chain so I don't lose the rudder if the ship hits some rocks.😂

Hi everyone,
Finally have most of the top deck done. The cannons, belaying pins, barque chocks for the life boats and eyebolts.

thanks for the coments and likes,
 
a bit more work has bin dunn, the wire for lightig is install,
i block up the hull and sanded it to shape/faired.... dusting... dusting...😲
The false dekk is glued on also but need to be sanded a bit on the edge around the hull.
propell shaft need to go in /the hole has to be drilled out .
the next task is to make the bulwark/rail, the keel has to get glued on, so after all this 
the hull is going to have some layers of filler so it can be smoot before the steel plating task!
 
 
svein erik
 
 

Quick update, she's turning out a lot better for the rats:
 

@RickyGene, @popeye the sailor, thanks your for the compliments.  You can pick one up one Ebay for 100.00 plus, the last one I think went for 160.00 which was a Revell plastic kit older model. So keep looking if your still interested. Do you still have your old kit?? Would love to see picture if you do.
 
Here's a update, the fore mast main rat lines are replaced and will be working on the rats themselves soon. So far to recover the fore mast rats I have 10 hrs into them.  They look better already. 
 



Stay tuned Ya'll it's moving along quickly. (hopefully) 

After a few weeks off, it is time to resume our build.
 
First, I had to fix the lower part of the keel. Trumpeter designed a few slots to allow the passing of electrical wires. That does not apply to me, since all electrical connections will go through the brass tube supporting the model. So putty and paint: 

 
I will have to repaint the other side of the hull, and finalize with a soft weathering.
 
Next, I have been working on the stand for this large and very heavy model. I need to have room for a few switches and for the various resistors that will allow me to fine tune the intensity of the various LED circuits. I wish to have an harmonious amount of light throughout the vessel. Building a thick base was the best way to go. That base can later on be installed in a larger display case, although it is unlikely it will ever happen.

I will show how the tubes are secured in a future picture. It is a heavy duty assembly. No jokes.

The panel for all the switches: 
- Push button for the propulsion motors.
- One switch for the outside lights (rear, top of the sail, positions lights).
- One switch for the internal light, through the six compartments.
- One switch for the special lights (battery enclosure, equipment dials.....etc).

This will give you some ideas of the massive assembly: 


I thought about gluing some precious woods on that base. The base is 32 inches by 6 ..... After going to my local Woodwork shop and being horrified by the price of a piece of wood large enough to cover the top, I have decided to instead paint the base and give it a little bit of an industrial look. I will use a sander and multiple coats of primer to obtain as smooth as possible of a finish and probably paint the base. Not sure which color yet....
 
Yves
 

Also  the tent......

and......

Thanks guys.  On to the upper gun deck.  The deck is provided in 2 pieces - a front & rear half.  I cut both halves down the middle in order to ease installation & they fit almost perfectly.so they were glued in place.  The written instructions say to plank this deck with tanganyka strips,so I looked through all the wood strips & couldn`t find them.  I finally realized that the deck planking strips are provided as basswood. I have some tanganyka strips in my stash.but not nearly enough so I will go ahead & use the basswood from the kit.
I also lined off the deck for a four plank shift using 100mm long planks.
 

 

 
Mark

To avoid problems, we have to think ahead about what needs to go where before the other stuff gets in the way. For example, attaching the Mizzen stay would be nearly impossible after the main shrouds are installed.

Now starts the stepping of the masts. Here's the Mainmast being set up at the proper rake angle, as determined by the template provided in the kit.

Hello everyone: I've had a few days, and I've continued with the model. I have made the grooves to place the "barraganetes", I have cut all the "barraganetes", I have built the covers of the "trancaniles", which I will then paste, and I will make the grooves for the "barraganetes" (more carefully, and more tightly, as it will be seen), And I built the "apostles." From here, I will place the keel and start with the helmet lining. Greetings. (Hola a todos: He tenido unos días, y he seguido con el modelo. He realizado las acanaladuras para colocar los "barraganetes", He cortado todos los "barraganetes", He construido las tapas de los "trancaniles", que luego pegare, y volveré a hacer las acanaladuras para los "barraganetes" (con mas cuidado, y mas ajustadas, ya que quedara visto), Y he construido los "apóstoles". A partir de aquí, ya colocare la quilla y empezare con el forro del casco. Un saludo)

Hello: With the Google translator, I don't know very well what you mean, I guess you want to know this. I attached a drawing of a partner, Leopoldo. Greetings (Hola:
Con el traductor de Google, no se muy bien a que te refieres, supongo que quieres saber esto. Te adjunto un dibujo de un compañero, Leopoldo.
Un saludo)

Masts and bowsprit are now up.  Pictures below.  Some of the holes in the brass fittings need to be drilled out -- important to do that before mounting them.
 
Now on to the yards -- there are 19 of them on this thing.
 
Regards,
David

am thinking of using blocks on all the bulkheads, insted of wood planking,
i then wil cut out all the section for the steel plates using soft copper sheet , roll the rivitts on the back side then glue it on
the hull peace by peace .
i think this is going to be faster and more realistic when airbrushed,
i never try this metod and i do not know if anyone has? 
 

Some progress on the hull,  (the New one) soon its time to glue the false dekk , some sanding and 
some wire rigging in the hull for lights before planking, 
 
I took some photo of the first hull beside the New one... a huge differents all the way.
and also thanks for the likes , its going to be more interested later on with this build 😊
 
Svein.erik 

Post 20
Finishing the hull
This involves scraping the boards to clean and fair them into the bow and sternpost, and then drilling the estimated 2500 holes for the securing bolts.
I have taken the measurements for spacing from the Alert book, which work out to a 7mm spacing at scale.
I am using 24swg 0.56mm ø copper wires to represent the bolts.

2814
A week of fairly concerted effort sees the hull bolted.
 
With this done the tricky waterline question remains. Not one of my favourite jobs and the clinker is an added problem.
How do I get an effective waterline marked?
 
In marking the waterline, it seems best to me, having set the level at the bow low point, to start at the centre high point of the line and work fore and aft. That way the line runs with the lap and the pencil is not thrown off by the ridges.

2815
Once the line is marked, Tamiya tape for curves is run along the lines to check by eye that both sides look even.

2819
I’ve never found that this Tamiya tape works particularly well, doesn’t seem to have as much grab as the yellow version.

2824
Altho’ I’m satisfied with the line of the waterline, inevitably I’m not going to get a sealed line to paint along, and my main concern is that the waterline line looks good with the clinker effect at model scale.
The top line will have to be painted free hand using the tape as a guide. The rub is that once committed it would prove difficult to go back to an unmarked hull.
 
I would hate it to look like a wobbly line, but doing it is the only way to see one way or the other, so time to bite the bullet.
 
I have used a basic white Humbrol  acrylic paint to lay down a base coat and assess the effect, but I intend to use a less stark  paint for the finish, perhaps Admiralty paints Light Ivory or Coral white.

2832

2838
I am relieved that the top line is far better than I had envisaged just a tiny amount of fussing and tweaking will be required.

2839

2840

2844(2)

2849(2)
I will now try to get the lower hull finish looking as good as I can before the upper hull is sealed with poly.
 
B.E.
08/10/2019
 
 

The IMAI Winston Churchill is 1:75 scale.
I saw an IMAI Cutty Sark on Ebay today, the asking price is $427.50 plus postage from Japan. Looks like a super beautiful kit.

To anyone wishing to build a USS Susquehanna, you can still do so.  Woody Joe produces this kit in 1/120th scale.  Is as the norm for them, everything about the kit is of the highest quality.  Their version is of the refit that shelled Costal Forts off the North Carolina cost and other Civil War Engagement's.  When I checked on the Web Page f/Woody Joe I found the kit for around $430.00 USD.  The Imai version is of the early version as used to take Cmdr Perry to Japan to get a treaty signed to open trade/commerce with Japan.  That in itself is a very interesting story.  I am sure many here have seen the Movie "The Last Samurai", the results of the treaty!
A Footnote:  Tamiya produces a small gear box that can be installed in the Woody Joe kit that makes the stern wheels rotate.
 
 

I remember this kit from back in the day and others.  Of course, back then my pay grade would not allow such a purchase.  I did however purchase one of their smaller Cutty Sarks.  I did come across another of Imai's Big Kits,again a Cutty Sark.  But I elected to purchase the Susquehanna instead.
And of course the price of the Cutty Sark was $600.00 and I paid $280.00 f/the Susquehanna.  It is my plan to build this monster and I promise I will post a build thread here when I do.
Rick

Imai is Woody Joe's predecessor. They generally made kits in larger scales and sizes than Woody Joe does now (except for the Shin Nippon Maru kit, which is slightly longer than this Susquehanna kit). I wish there were still this and the 1/50-scale Kanrin Maru kits available.
 
Woody Joe makes great kits, but nothing is more impressive to display than a large scale ship model!
 

2 more guns placed. 

Yep, the fore mast rats will be tore out and redone. Time to redo them will be 40 hrs. Have also been going over the plans for all the other rigging with full sails and look's to be approximately 300 hr's to complete her with glass case. Will be ordering more parts for rigging, some lines will be white for definition coloring details.  I have about 558 hrs so far into the build.
 
Eager to get her finished so I can move onto another model, so I'm going to try to slam dunk the finish line on this one. Hopefully.