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capnharv2

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  1. capnharv2
    One thing to remember-we do this for fun and enjoyment. If you're enjoying yourself, that's what matters most. And you've got the largest group of people in the world to help. So have fun! Harvey
  2. capnharv2
    If I recall correctly, Bob started the Roebuck project, then had some problems with the Cad file, and gave it up. I may still have some of that work too. Harvey
  3. capnharv2
    I think it's to reduce errors in planking, and forcing odd plank shapes at the sheerline or keel. Larger vessels have 3-4 planking belts. At least, that's how I think it goes. . . . Your mileage may vary Thanks, Harvey
  4. capnharv2
    I have a lot of old, used rigging line (for the real sailboat) lying around the house too. It's been suggested that I learn to make rope fenders and bow pudding. . . .
  5. capnharv2
    I wish! I stopped buying kits 15-20 years ago. Nowdays, I get notes from families whose ship modelling father/grandfather/brother/etc have passed away, and they send me leftover rigging line ("string", as they call it) I get leftover ship model wood too (anybody want some 1" x 6" x 6' basswood?). At least I can find a use for wood. . .
  6. capnharv2
    I have no idea if there are any copyright issues, but here goes. . . Chris pointed out Barkentines. One to consider is the Regina Maris. It has an extensive history. Another is Gazela Primero from Philadelphia. 1:96 would work Along with the CA Thayer, there's her sister ship Wawona. She was cut up in 2010, but she was well documented as they disassembled her. Like the Thayer, 1:96 would work One, from Harold Hahn's The Colonial Schooner, 1763-1775, would be Sir Edward Hawke. Small enough for several different scales. On the West Coast, there's the ubiquitous Bristol Bay Gillnetter. At 28' overall, one could add a lot of detail. One last one, then I'll shut up-Pride of Baltimore 1?
  7. capnharv2
    In several kit build logs and model reviews, I've read how awful some of the kit-supplied rigging line is. And, I'm thankful we have companies here that provide excellent quality rigging line to replace the bad stuff with. My question, though, is, what does everybody do with their old, crappy rigging line? The stuff that you'll never find a use for. I don't have an answer. The stuff just accumulates with almost every kit I buy. I don't want to just throw it out. I've seen what fish netting can do to wildlife and wouldn't want to let that happen. I guess I could burn it in the fireplace. . . I've heard people say, "Oh, just keep it. You'll find a use for it someday". I've got about 40 years' worth of "somedays" stored up to use, and it's not getting used. Just curious. Thanks for letting me whine . . . Harvey
  8. capnharv2
    Something else to consider for the conference is how the location impacts attendance. Places like LA, Chicago, New England etc are home to a lot more ship modelers, and are more likely to attend a conference there than some place far away. I suspect few people would attend a conference in Hawaii-even though it has a rich maritime history (and is a great vacation spot to boot) Having lived in the PNW and ship modeling here for 40 years, I'd love to see an NRG conference here. But I'm not sure what attendance would be. My opinion only. Your mileage may vary. . . Thanks, Harvey
  9. capnharv2
    Hi Gary, Just curious-how old is your oldest unbuilt plastic model? I mean, the age of the kit itself, not the original item the model is based on? Thanks, Harvey
  10. capnharv2
    Just a silly observation. I have those Lie-Nielsen squirrel tail planes.I've been clamping the plane upside down (blade up) in a soft jawed vice and pull my plank over the blade. It seems to work well for me . . . Harvey
  11. capnharv2
    Per, Is that the model Floyd had? Harvey
  12. capnharv2
    Plastic or not, almost anything can be saved and/or restored. The real question is-are the time and money spent on a project like this worth it to you?
  13. capnharv2
    And if you ever use it in a joint on a wooden boat, have fun getting it out. . . . Harvey
  14. capnharv2
    Kurt, Your parts drawing of the 150 shows an angled slot in the 50-035 body below part# 50-042 back lever (the curved piece). My old 150 had no such slot, other than the longitudinal one. It made it a real pain to re-assemble. My question is-was that angled slot put in at a later time (mine is a 1980's vintage), did something miss QC before shipment, or did I get a cheap rip off?? Floyd has my old airbrush now. I bought a cheap Iwata knock off, but it does the job for now. Thanks! Harvey
  15. capnharv2
    Floyd, Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you? I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150. Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume. And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time. Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie. Thanks, Harvey
  16. capnharv2
    So, what will you do when you hear the phrases "you build model boats don't you? Call this guy. he has money" again? My instinct would be-run! Thanks for sharing this Floyd. It's been fun and interesting to hear the progress and see your work up close. Harvey
  17. capnharv2
    How much did you get Rob? We got about 16-18". We're lucky that we never lost power. A lot of people (including you) have been less lucky. So, you've been watching TV by candle light??🤣
  18. capnharv2
    I used to have a vise like that too. I don't know why I got rid of it . . . Harvey
  19. capnharv2
    I've had some luck with annealing the wire before stretching it. Heat it till it turns red, let it cool, then try pulling on it. It's possible the wire on the the roll is already work hardened, and will hold its current (bent) shape. Hope that helps. Harvey
  20. capnharv2
    Rob, One question about the pictures. The planking between the waterline and the sheer of the original ship appears to be uncaulked (in the second picture, it almost appears lapstrake). It also seems to protrude (or maybe cover) the wales. I wonder if this was an additional layer of planking while she was a receiving ship? Is there much information out there for the years she was a receiving ship? That would make for a fascinating model. Thanks, Harvey
  21. capnharv2
    Thanks Rob! That's very clever
  22. capnharv2
    Looks great Rob! Question-how did you get your relaxed lifts to hang so perfectly? I always end up with a twisted mess. Thanks, Harvey
  23. capnharv2
    Rob, How portable is your GR? I'd sure like to see it at our next PSSM meeting at the Foss Museum (sometime this spring-I don't know when yet). The model looks fantastic. Most realistic sails in a long time. Harvey
  24. capnharv2
    I know a few people that use Fusion 360 and love it. Be aware that the full blown AutoCad Suite is pricey. https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad/subscribe?plc=ACDIST&term=1-YEAR&support=ADVANCED&quantity=1 And there are many more knowledgeable folks on this forum who can help you find a CAD package that fits your needs. Thanks, Harvey
  25. capnharv2
    Ed, Earlier you said "Only lines 4" and above on my model use made rope." I was wonder earlier, is this 4" diameter or 4" circumference? I prefer working with diameters, but am aware that circumference was used historically Thanks for the clarification. Harvey

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