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capnharv2

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Everything posted by capnharv2

  1. Now you tell me about the chopsitcks!! Question-did you tie your ratlines fore to aft on both sides or fore to aft on the port side and aft to fore on the starboard side? For whatever reason, I've always tried to do fore to aft on both sides, and had a devil of a time on the starboard side (I'm right handed). Thanks! It's been fun and educational following your build. Harvey
  2. Thanks for posting the reference cards Geoff. That falls under "why didn't I think of that"??? Better yet, why am I not doing this now? Harvey
  3. Okay, I cheated a little bit. I knew that it was either a Bluejacket kit or a Laughing Whale kit. So, I went to the Bluejacket catalog and found W122 (now KLW122) is a New Bedford whale boat. I hope I didn't spoil the fun. Harvey
  4. Geoff, A question about rigging sizes (I have your size chart from way back). I know there are places in the plans that call out for .012" .014" .015" .017" .019" diameters.When using only 30 and 50 wt thread, how do you determine which sizes are close enough to use the same size line and which are different enough? Also, when making 3 strand line on the ropewalk, how consistent are your diameters? On larger sizes, it's not been problem. But when making, say .015" dia line, sometimes, from the same spool, I get .013", sometimes .016" (this is after hardening it a couple days). I guess a lot of it boils down to "how good is good enough"?, and I was looking for your (and others') thoughts. Thanks, Harvey BTW, I like the highlighter on the plans for finding sizes. I also use them to show completed lines (it's easy to miss or forget a line that's impossible to put on as an afterthought sometimes)
  5. How do you like AYC for shipmodeling Chuck? I've heard that it's an oily wood and can be hard to glue. But it's a wonderful wood for carving-I've made numberboards for our boat using Alaskan Yellow Cedar, and it was great to work with-reminded me of a softer boxwood. I plan to carve trailboards for Amie using AYC. Thanks, Harvey
  6. Ken, Jay (Modeler12) and I had this discussion when he was building his MS Connie. I think we agreed that, since studding sails were mainly downwind sails, that putting them on the mainsail would blanket the fore course and its studding sails too much. The discussion is buried in Modeler12's build log for the Constitution. Note that he's scratchbuilding a fwd section of the Connie now, and his build log is there. Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
  7. Interesting comment on AYC Chuck. I carved numberboards out of it for our real boat and love the way it works (other than the smell). Besides it being easy to carve,(and most modelmakers don't have this problem) Alaska Yellow Cedar is very rot resistant. I hope to make trailboards for our Friendship Sloop one day, and that's the wood I'll be using. Thanks Harvey
  8. Jerry, I'm impressed with the forethought and incorporation of other folks' lessons learned in the building of your launching cart. Harvey
  9. Jerry, I'm no expert on trailers (boat or otherwise), but I would feel better with 2 supports per side. I worry that hitting a bump or hole while pulling it in a crosswind could cause it to jump and twist off the trailer. Just a thought . . . Thanks, Harvey
  10. They may not have been turned in the past, but they can turn them in Grays Harbor WA http://www.thesparshop.org/
  11. Sarah, Did you bevel the plank edges? If not, that could be a source of the light. Also, the planking is (I believe) 1/32" thick, so it's not fully opaque Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
  12. Rob, I missed that. Was it here on MSW? Edited to add-Never mind. I found it. Great picture. I too would like to see your models of her. I worked on Puffin last summer. The usual volunteer stuff-paint, varnish, sanding. Her boiler was getting worked on. She's a neat little boat.
  13. Rob, Mark, It is a bit of work. That is our boat, the Friendship Sloop Amie (might explain why I like Friendship Sloops), and I do normally keep her at the Center fro Wooden Boats on Lake Union. I've been working on her since January and have, probably 2 months to go. So far, I replaced/repaired 10 frames and 6 planks. I still need to finish caulking and below waterline seam compound before we can prep for paint. Also, I have new toerails to make and rot in the cabintop to repair. I've had help occasionally, but it's pretty much a one man show. Your models and Bremerton remind me-do you have the book "Maritime Memories of Puget Sound" by James Gibbs? It has some beautiful pictures pictures of square riggers on Puget Sound. My favorite is a shot of Port Blakely when they used to ship logs out of there (I think the photo is from the 1880's. It's wall to wall square riggers-quite a contrast to how it looks now, with expensive, isolated mansions dotting the bay. I apologize for the thread drift. Rob, you've got a fantastic model, and I've been enjoying this build log. Hope to meet up with you one day soon. Thanks, Harvey
  14. Rob, PSSM has about 30 members, about 6-8 who are active, and about 3-4 that come to meetings. Our president is Floyd Kershiner, and meetings are usually at his house. Most of us live on the east side of the Sound. I haven't been to the meetings much lately because I have a little bigger project I'm working on. When I'm done with this I hope to get back to ship models. Thanks, Harvey
  15. Gotta be careful with the cave pics Rob. Puget Sound Ship Modelers might want to have a meeting there . . . Harvey
  16. Gee Ed, now I'm thinking about re-doing the capstan on my Constitution Harvey
  17. Moonbug, If the author and/or company is interested in pursuing it, a case could be made for denying them profit since one less book was sold. That being said, I don't think it makes business sense for them to pursue copyright infringement because somebody posted one page from one of their books But I've been wrong before. . . . Harvey
  18. Looks good Nenad. One suggestion-if you can, make the vertical parts of the stand shorter, so the model sits closer to the ground. I find that longer stand supports tend to make the model easy to fall over (especially with the spars and rigging you'll be adding). Just a thought. Thanks, Harvey
  19. David, Thanks for the links. I've had some peripheral knowledge of bit grinding and angles, but I really need to practice more. Harvey
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