capnharv2
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Everything posted by capnharv2
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Thanks Bob. Most of the Friendships that I know of are in the 25-31 ft range. I've read about some that were up to 45 ft long, but I haven't found much more info on them. I might check with the Friendship Sloop Society to find out more about them. Our Friendship is based on Chapelle's Pemaquid model in ASSC (that page is almost falling out of the book) but has an extended cabin. It's still tight, but will sleep 4 without too much trouble. Once they get to 30 ft, the interior opens up a lot. Do you have the book "Friendship Sloops" by Roger Duncan? It has a lot of useful pictures, information and sketches. I've almost worn that book out too. Enjoy! I will! Thanks, Harvey -
This will be fun. I've wanted to scratchbuild one in either this scale or 1:64. Are these the plans in American Small Sailing Craft? Thanks, Harvey
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IIRC Mark, you were just starting the framing when I stopped by in May. My compliments on a superb job! Harvey
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Boy Mark, The last time somebody mentioned hating macros was when we were using Excel . I believe that somebody was me. . . Thanks, Harvey
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Rich, On smaller scales, some modelers thread their ratlines on a needle and just push it thru the shroud. Thanks, Harvey
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Rich, I'm sure your model lines up just fine with the plans. I would fault the plans. If you have them, it might be interesting to compare gunport locations of the hull plans vs gunport locations on the plans showing channel and chainplate location. I suspect they don't agree. I think it looks good. I like the way you did the deadeyes and chainplates. Thanks, Harvey
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Thanks Dave. I finished up the main shrouds and lanyards last night. I have to redo the block on the sb main swifter (think running backstay for square rigger), then tension the main and main preventer stays. Then I'm done! Right. Sheer poles and tops next. I'd like to do the rat lines and snaking, but I think I can use the clearance for the rest of the standing rigging. Hope to bring it to January's meeting. See you then. Thanks, Harvey
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Thanks Michael. It's been fun but a challenge at times. I feel like I know so much more about rigging than when I started this project. You're correct on the freezing (or lack thereof). Even though it's 27 deg with a dusting of snow, it never freezes over here-at least not enough to require us to pull boats out of the water. The boat is coming out for routine maintenance. The masthead blocks are bad and need to be replaced. While we're at it, we're replacing the gaff jaws and rebuilding the bowsprit around the gammoning iron. There are a few weeping fasteners and some gouges in the hull I'd like to fix. But nothing big. She still doesn't leak and still looks good. Steeling up the courage to tackle some more mainmast shrouds and lanyards. We'll see how it goes. Thanks, Harvey
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Mark, At least two others. And that doesn't count the Flying Cloud I haven't touched in months. Oh, and then there's the 1:1 boat-spars are coming out in the next week or two, and the boat is coming out of the water soon after that. Nothing major, just time (and money) consuming. Oh well, it keeps me off the streets at night Thanks, Harvey
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Well, I see it's been 9 months since I've posted any progress. So I'll try to give an update here. The standing rigging on the lower masts and bowsprit are essentially done I've tensioned all the lanyards on the fore and mizzen, and am working on the main (6 down, 12 to go) I finished the mizzen last night. It looks good, although the Burton Pendants look awfully big compared to the shrouds, but that's what the rigging schedule calls for I was particularly happy with the mizzen stay and preventer stay. The picture isn't the best, but the foremast is done And I was pretty pleased with fore and fore preventer stays. After I finish the main shroud lanyards, I'll work on the sheer poles, the probably start in on the tops. They're built, but need to be installed and rigged. That will be interesting. . . I'll try to show progress more often, but I've got 2 other builds going (that I also need to start build logs for). Comments and constructive criticism are always welcome. Thanks, Harvey
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First, I want to apologize for getting on my soapbox, but this type of issue is one of my pet peeves. Don't get me wrong-I love tall ships. Some do well. But a lot of them (it seems to me) in the US are created by a committee (few members, if any, are acquainted with the regulation, upkeep and use of a tall ship) that says "Let's build a tall ship to commemorate our (fill in the blank here). It will be a great tourist draw! Very little thought is put into annual maintenance costs, moorage, meeting CG regs, rebuild costs (they do need rebuilding), etc. Few look at what they expect the ship to do (or be capable of doing) in 5, 10, 15 or 20 years down the road. And costs go up exponentially with size. And often, as a result, a new tall ship is launched with lots of fanfare and celebration. After 5 years, it's a financial burden on whomever said they would take care of her. 10 years after, the organization is looking for a dreamer to take the reins so they can get out from under it. I really wish I could think of more tall ships that are successful. It seems that tall ships built and maintained outside the United States fare better, partly because of help from their governments. It's sad to see Amistad falling on hard times. When will we ever learn. . . Okay, off my soapbox. Thanks for letting me vent. Harvey
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Hi Gil, I just noticed that you tape your alligator clips to prevent marring and cutting whatever you are holding. What kind of tape do you use, and how often do you replace it? I've done it once or twice with masking tape, but it doesn't really help much. Enjoy your turkey! Thanks, Harvey
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Thanks so much for sharing Ray. Your work is an inspiration to us all. Harvey
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Sjors, I assume you've seen regular needle threaders before: I hadn't heard of beading threaders before though. Thanks, Harvey
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One thing to remember with beading needles or needle threaders is to make sure your deadeyes are of good quality. If made of soft wood or bad grain direction, the diameter of the combination needle and line could split the deadeye. Rich, when you get to running rigging, the beading needle and/or CA needle on the end of the line will again come in handy. Thanks, Harvey
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Pete, This is a most interesting build. I too have loved the early Malabar schooners. Do you have the Alden plans for Malabar 1? The plans for Malabar 2 are readily available, but I've never seen them for M1. Thanks! Harvey
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Measuring line by circumference
capnharv2 replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for the answers. It's what I was looking for. Harvey -
If this has been asked before, I apologize. Just point me to the correct thread. I'm curious-when I look at rigging tables in Steel and Lever and other old texts, rigging size is always shown in circumference, whereas all the work we do (and most modern rigging that I'm aware of) is shown in diameter. So, why did they measure line size that way? I'm trying to come up with an advantage for measuring circumfrence over diameter, and I keep drawing a blank. Any thoughts? Thanks, Harvey
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Hi Bill, If you double plank instead of single plank the hull, you would deduct the extra plank thickness from the bulkheads. That way, the sheer plank stays the same. Likewise with the keel, stem and sternpost. If you double plank her, you would cut the rabbet a little deeper (about the thickness of the extra plank). You're trying to control the outside surface of the hull, so all plank thicknesses and changes are taken away from the backup structure. And remember to edge glue the planks as well as glue them to the bulkheads/filler blocks. I've missed that step several times, and the planking flexes when you try to fair the hull. It just makes it a whole lot harder to get a smooth hull(now that I've said that, I'm sure to forget again on my next planking job ). Also, I suggest using basswood for the first layer of planking. Boxwood is just too pretty to cover up. One last comment. Since you have Bob's Practicum (I have it too, along with a MS Rattlesnake waiting), he suggests filling the space between the bulkheads with basswood blocks, then carve away the blocks to fair with the buklheads. That would give you the plank support you're looking for. OTOH, if you want to double plank her for practice, go for it! I hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
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Bill, If your computer is simlar to mine, ctrl-i gives you italics. You can see it highlighted in the menu just above where you type. Also, ctrl-B gives you bold text. Add xtrl-i and you get bold italics! Add ctrl-u and you get underlined bold italics. I apologize. I was having fun and got carried away !!! Thanks, Harvey BTW, that happens to me a lot-our cats love to walk on my keyboard
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Rigging Tension-how do you do it?
capnharv2 replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jerry, I've been able to get over an octave range on topmast shrouds Thanks, Harvey -
Rigging Tension-how do you do it?
capnharv2 replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
John, I know it's mainly a judgement call. I was wondering if anybody had any specifics. Jerry, I agree that temperature and humidity make a big difference. The type of line does too (linen, silk, cotton, polyester, nylon). The scale of the model, i.e., spar size and line size also make a difference. I'm thinking of a couple different things here. One is tight enough that it "twangs" like a guitar string. On a small model you probably can't achieve that, but it might make sense on a 1:24 RC sailboat. The other is a tensiometer used in rigging airplane flight control cables. But that is tension in hundreds of pounds. However, it is a way to measure tension. Like I said, I'm curious what you do. Thanks! Harvey -
This subject has kind of come up previously, but I wanted to ask it a different way. When tightening the standing rigging (just before tying if off permanently), what methods do you use to determine if it's tight enough or too tight? We know (on standing rigging) that you don't want the line to be slack, but not tight enough to bend things out of alignment. Still, that leaves a pretty large range of tensions. So what do you do to determine your standing rigging is tight enough? Thanks, Harvey
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Hi Waitoa, Glad to see you here and posting your build log. For many years I would get demotivated when I would hit a building snag or something I did 15 steps prior came back to bite me. I gradually learned to accept some of my errors, and correct others. I've looked at building ship models as a learning experience, and you don't learn unless you make mistakes. I've also learned to live with some bulding errors because I'll remember that error on my next build. And half the time I actually remember Looks good! Thanks, Harvey
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