capnharv2

Hello,
 
after I had to do some other things then shipbuilding, here now an update. I painted the under water ship.
 
Before I go on and build the upper part of the outside ship ready, I must build in the gun deck and made the inner walls smooth. But then the slots for the over head stand will get lost. So I painted it now.
 
In the first picture I made the water line horizontal.
 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
today I finished the lower counter. 
 

 

 
The only thing left here, is to cut the mortise for the gun port lid into the rail. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Despite the idea that most of what I'm doing to make the boat sail is temporary, or "jury-rigged" there's some real work going in, and some of the temporary stuff is testing ideas that will become permanent.
The wythe (flying jib-boom fitting) was remade with too big a hoop.  I remade the hoop from sheet brass to the right size.

Finally getting a handle on soldering, I started making the strops for the deadeyes which is doubled over rod.  Attaching it to the chain-plate has been tricky.  I was using round-head brass escutcheon pins, cutting them to length, and peening them, but they aren't peening very well, and bend more often than not.  I'm looking for copper pins hoping they'll peen more easily.

As mentioned, I ground off the threads on her keel rods for about 1/2".  This has made putting her on and off her ballast tube much easier. 

To facilitate shortening sail if it gets too breezy, I used hooks on the clews and halyards of those sails so they can be removed entirely fairly quickly.

The courses can be clewed and bunted, and the trys'ls brailed up taking the ship from 17 sails down to 7.  If it's too windy for that, well, then it's too windy to sail her.

Chuck you provide the most concise instruction booklets available. They are awesome and I would like to make a suggestion based on ten years of writing technical documentation. Number your photos and refer to that number in your instructions. Lessens confusion. Looking forward to this kit.

As is my ilk, I tend to research, think, then jump right in.  My next step is the ship's boats.  I've been looking over the plans and sorting out to do this with out making a dog's breakfast of it.  For the cutter and the barge (the two smaller boats) I'm going to use a modified jig.   The longboat will be built around the plug that I already have made.  This may change once I really get into things.
 
Basically, I have a couple of old ME ship's boat kits.. a 5 inch and one that appears to be 6"  (by their definition).   To make a long story short, I took their instructions and modified the heck out of the plans and the thus, new parts, which I've drawn up and cut on the laser using boxwood for the keel, the stern, and first frame.   The only seats will be the fixed ones at the rear and bow.  I'll decide on what goes in this boat once I get it put together.   But, historically, everything was removed, rudder, oars, the benches the rowers used, etc. and stored in the hold.  The other two will be the same since the boats were stacked n the gundeck.
 
The picture shows the keel with the stern structure and also the first frame.   The stern structure gets planked externally first before doing the strakes.   The frame has been modified for the forward "seat" instead of a bulkhead as some boats (other navies) had.  As soon as I get the forms added to the build board, I'll start install the keel and start planking.   Looks to be another small (size) fun part of the build.
 

And here I continue again with decoration and sculpting.....

Captains Gig mounted....
This morning I completed the temporary mounting of all three davit launches.  She's pretty much ready for the road trip.
Note:  I spent most of the day yesterday building a weatherproof cargo box for the back of my pickumup truck.  After the near disaster I had a couple of years ago, I assure you this box will not blow out the back on the highway..... no matter how fast I drive.  I did a road test this morning up to 90 mph.  Solid as a rock.

   

Do a search here on MSW - this topic had an extensive discussion some time ago - may different ways to do this.
Kurt

Al,
 
Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on?
 
Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off.
 
If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want.
 
For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done.
 
Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas.
 
Hope we've helped.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Al,
 
Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on?
 
Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off.
 
If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want.
 
For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done.
 
Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas.
 
Hope we've helped.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Al,
 
Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on?
 
Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off.
 
If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want.
 
For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done.
 
Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas.
 
Hope we've helped.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Al,
 
Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on?
 
Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off.
 
If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want.
 
For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done.
 
Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas.
 
Hope we've helped.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

And finally ...........
 
on it's provided stand and appropriately, under the Sopwith Camel !!
 
(I still might fly it from the ceiling.)
 
 

Well folks, another project bites the dust ! The Fokker is complete except for the stand. I am waiting for some acrylic glue to make it up with unless I decide to fly it from the ceiling as planned alongside the Sopwith.
 
Thank you all for watching, showing interest and all your comments. They make the build more fun for me.
 
Anyway, some pictures for you which hopefully you will enjoy.
 

The top wing is installed - what a fight that was trying to line up with the spars and glue them - it is covered, rigged and painted.
 
Next step is the undercarriage

The covering so far just to give an idea
 
 

I've cut the same piece three times and it's STILL too short .
 
Danny

The magazines for the guns, the oil and fuel tanks are installed. The fuel tank was huge struggle as in order to fit it I had to file away quite two quite big areas on the underside to accommodate the legs on the firewall mount. I got there in the end. The firewall is held on by four 0.5mm bolts theoretically with nuts on. There is no way on this planet I could get the nuts on so I just had to cheat and glue them. They would be very hard to see anyway.
 
Basically the fuselage is now done except for 'wood' panels to go on the sides - they are made of metal but have to be disguised as wood. This depends on whether I cover half or not which is where I need your help viewers !
 
Otherwise the next stage is to start on the lower wing. 

Copper, of course. 
I might be a masochist, but I'm not that bad yet... then again, model ships.. hmm.. 

Let's just say that the redo is taking just as long as the first attempt.  I have not cleaned it up yet but I think everyone will agree that it looks better (I hope).  Next on the agenda is making the carvings to be applied to the munions.  These will be similar to the ones between the stern windows.
 

 

 

Thank you Mike.
Happy to hear from you again.
The visit by our sweet grand daughters was really special since we only see them once a year.  And the really neat thing about them "helping" is the fact that they will, one day, long after I’m gone, be able to show their children how they actually glued the main fife rail onto the deck .... and point to it on this ship they will inherit from their their Papa.
Now, I ask....How COOL is that?
 
Cheers
 
 
 

Since I'm working on the fireplaces, here's a picture now that the iron bars the pots sit on have been installed.  I still have the exterior to plank and the pots to make.  The flash made them redder than then actually are as they're more of a red-brown or rust color.  I wanted them to look like they had been used.
 

 
 

Hi Mark -
 
Yes, working with very small blocks is tedious, but I have developed some techniques that have simplified the process for me.  Here is a quick overview of the one that I use the most.  I hope that it can give you some ideas for your own work:
 
The central concept is that the stropping line is always under tension until the stropping is complete.  To do this, I took a Helping Hands tool and added a small alligator clip and a light spring to one of the tool's end clips, the left one in my case because I am right handed.  The selected stropping line is wrapped around three sides of the block and clipped into the stationary jaws on the right, with the tails held firmly in the spring clip (a).  The selected serving line (always smaller than the stropping line) is looped or tied around the strop tails (b), then wound tightly up towards the block, forming a nicely tapered siezing (c).  This is glued with your favorite glue and left to dry.

 
Once the glue is dry the extra seizing line is snipped off and the block is released.  At this point it has two tails, making it suitable for tying the block to a spar or other rigging point (a).  If the block is going to be at the end of a pendant or other similar location, one of the tails is cut off very close to the seizing and a loop is seized into the end of the tail in a similar manner (b).  This technique works for me from the largest down to really small blocks.  In photo (c) the block on the left is a 7mm triple; the middle is a 4mm single which is the one in the photos, and on the right is a 2mm single.  The technique is the same, just the choice of stropping and seizing line changes.  The smallest block is seized with fly tying thread, which is about the smallest that my old hands and eyes can still work with.  On that note, an added benefit is that with the tails on it is much harder for the block to get itself lost when I am opening up the sheave holes.

 
Of course there is more - seizing in hooks or eyebolts to the blocks, double stropping, etc.  but you get the idea, I am sure.  You can probably think of some improvements.
 
Hope that helps a bit.
 
Dan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 281 – Main Yard Rigging 2
 
The first picture shows the main yard ready for the next rigging steps.  The taut chain sling may be seen in this picture.
 

 
The topsail sheet chains are hanging from the cloverleaf sheet block under the center of the yard.  As described before, these chains are linked over the central pin within the block to allow them to pull down on the yard using the two tackles soon to be added.  This also permits the chains to hang somewhat slack under the yard on their way to the cheek blocks at the ends.  The two triple tackles for the sheets are shown rigged in the next picture.
 

 
The lower blocks of these tackles are hooked to deck eyebolts just forward of the mast and the falls are belayed on the topsail sheet bits using the long horizontal belaying pins.  The next items to be installed are the clue garnets with the main sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached to a single large shackle.  The next picture shows the prefabricated gear for one side.
 

 
 
The large line is the tack that was used to haul the weather side of the sail taut.  The smaller line is the lazy tack, used to control the sail as it was switched from tacks to sheets while the yard was being braced when the ship tacked.  The large block is the sheet block.  The sheet will be added later.   At this stage outboard rigging – mainly braces and lower course sheets – would be an obstacle to the work and subject to damage.  The smaller attached block is for the clue garnet.  The standing end of that line is shackled under the yard, passes through this block, back through one sheave of the quarter block and belays on the main fife rail. The hooked double block in the picture is a quarter block.  The second sheave on this block takes the fall of the reef tackle.  The next picture shows these lines rigged. 
 

 
The tacks are belayed on cleats on the bulwark rails and the lazy tacks to the first pins on the main pin rails.  These remain unglued so they may be adjusted when the sheets are added later.  In the next picture the topping lifts, buntlines, leechlines and reef tackle have been added. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of these lines.
 

 
The bunt and leech lines pass through single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, down through shroud fairleads and belay on the main pin rails.  The reef tackle falls pass under the yard, through the aft sheaves on the double quarter blocks, and belay on the fife rail below next to the clue garnets.  Next the bowlines.
 
 
 
Ed