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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. I dunno... Ratlines: check spacing, tie knot, tie another knot, tie more knots, repeat. Trusses: measure spacing, confirm spacing, square end of styrene angle, repeat because knife slid while cutting, brace truss in floating jig to ensure straightness, mark angle to cut top of cross member, cut cross member, (if you're lucky it fits right the first time, if not repeat), tack ends of cross member with glue, confirm allignment, spacing and squareness, adjust as needed, finish gluing ends.... I think ratlines are starting to look like a vacation...... Andy
  2. Nice fix, looking at the last photos, it can't be seen at all. Well done. Andy
  3. Still working away and making slow progress. But, the finish line for this stage is in sight. Of course, this is only the end of the beginning.... there's a ton more truss work that must be done.... oh joy.... Andy
  4. Still slowly working away. The second boom truss is proving a bit more tedious than the first as I have to triple check all measurements against each other as well as the completed side. When I get closer to completing the second truss I'll post some photos. Andy
  5. I've got a Grex Genisis XT: http://www.grexusa.com/grexairbrush/products.php5?id=Genesis.XT It works really well with acrylic, and the pistol trigger is a little easier to master for someone new to airbrushing. Andy
  6. If there's planking to go on the inside of the bulwark, I wouldn't worry about it too much, a bit of deck plank run-off and some nice "spirketting" should hide any potential gaps. Andy
  7. Off to a to a good start. As for your bulkhead labelling, it is closer to prototype practice for framing nomenclature. Andy
  8. Not too far off, Kevin. A couple of differences though, she's what we'd call a "flat back" - no self unloading gear. And she's also got single panel steel hatch covers, unlike mine which has telescopic covers. You can tell that by the hatch crane (iron deckhand) sitting just aft the foreward house. Andy
  9. Thanks everyone! I really appreciate all the kind remarks. Kevin, no worries, we all get caught in our own versions of stupid reality from time to time. John, from the point of view of the "sections" of the kit hull, it takes up about half the model, not too far off the real thing. Druxy, you're obviously not one of those who would pull a U-turn upon seeing the flashing red lights at the end of the bridge are you And a big thank you anyone and everyone else who's stumbled by for a quick look. Andy
  10. Kurt, I know what you mean, and that would work if the boom was constructed of flat stock, and was symmetrical about the peak of the truss. Unfortunately it's not symmetrical and is constructed of angle stock, so the correct orientation of the angle flange would make cutting double parts a bit more challenging. All the same, thanks for looking in and the kind words. Andy
  11. Thanks John and Ray, it might be a couple more weeks before my mesh shows up. Carrying on with work on the boom. I've now completed the starboard truss (short a a couple small finishing touches here and there). And what a lot of fun that was. Incidentally, that is a 12" ruler below it in the photgraphs. Now to replicate it as an exact mirror image for the port side. Andy
  12. Looking forward to this one. I've been contemplating this ship for some time. Can't wait to see you start putting her together. Andy
  13. A few days and some more progress... Finally started work on the unloading boom. A very large structure fabricated all out of angle iron (or in my case styrene angle stock of varying sizes). Drawing this thing out proved the easier of the two steps. Working from photorgaphs I was able to figure out approximate ratios and based on a length that appeared visually correct on the model, I could get something that looked right. Now it is simply (hah!) a matter of cutting, measuring and glueing parts based on my drawing....... this may take a while............ Andy
  14. Your work looks great so far. As for your blocks, I might suggest trying Chuck's. They are so much more refined than the kit supplied, and they'll go a long way to improving the overall look. I've done the same for my Pegasus build (not for my canons unfortunately, not available at the time). Andy
  15. Daniel and Sherry, glad to have those kinds of responses from you. Nice to know I've hit the nail on the head and created something immediately recognizable to anyone who's worked in the industry. Augie and Popeye, I've ordered to better brass mesh to replace the aluminium mush (yes I meant to spell it that way). No big deal really, I needed to order some other detail parts at the same time anyway. Andy
  16. Carrying on work on the loop belt casing. Went to work on the boom feed hopper. A fun little bit of architecture. You can see in the second photo just how bad the aluminium mesh really is. It's just too soft to be used in this way. Not that I really need and excuse to head down to the hobby shop today.... The bottom of the hopper has a rotating chute that feeds the boom belt. I have to have a close look at contemporary examples to see how this arrangement allowed for the change of the boom belt angle as the boom was topped up or down. Nowadays it's a complex goose neck arrangement that does away with the chute altogether. Anyway, everything is pictured in situ. A nice summary of progress to date. Andy
  17. The seaway is most assuredly closed for the season. I chose my photographic angles carefully, that and with a soft focus on a mesh surface... So it may not be as visible to everyone, but the catwalk is quite wavy.... And really starting to bug me.... Andy
  18. Just to keep everyone informed of the slow pace of construction. Still working some things out on the unloading boom, so in the mean time I've been doing some detailing of the loop belt casing. The top section had all it's framework on the outside. As this section was basically a large hopper where the loop belt discharged, having framework inside would have hampered the flow of cargo. There is a catwalk all the way around the outside. I've used some aluminium mesh, but I think I'm going to replace it with brass mess, as the aluminium is a bit too soft and buckles too easily during handling. I've also made the chain drive covers. Their final position will be dictated by the drive motor and upper platform, yet to be built/installed. Modern belt drive is done with hydraulic "soft start" torque converters, rather than chain drives. Much less maintenance, and far fewer moving parts. So work continues on. Andy
  19. Looks great, but you should bring the loop of the stay down over the shrouds, so it rests as much as possible on the cross tree bolster. Andy
  20. HMS Royal Charles, or Naseby ?
  21. So that's what that loud noise was.... Ouch...That stinks... Hope you manage an effective fix... Otherwise I'd go with what BE said and rebuild the thing. Andy
  22. Best of luck on your new endeavour. I'll be following along. Andy
  23. You'd probably be OK with a NiOSH paper dust mask. They are designed to keep out most dry dust particulate. For liquid vapours you would need a respirator with replaceable staged filters. Andy
  24. It's funny.... When you think about the bigger picture, "common sense" isn't really that common... I think a better phrase should be "I take all proper precautions as required". Andy
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