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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. realworkingsailor
    I find these are slightly better in some cases: http://www.micromark.com/spike-insertion-plier,8242.html Andy
  2. realworkingsailor
    Yup, 100 years ago.
  3. realworkingsailor
    Alright... this should be a good one.... (I hope) Andy
  4. realworkingsailor
    AHS Centaur http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AHS_Centaur Andy
  5. realworkingsailor
    Although I've got both types in stock at home, I've been using the regular orange stuff. Haven't tried the purple stuff yet.... Should make a point to.. Andy
  6. realworkingsailor
    To further my earlier remarks... You have managed, far more than any other interior shot I've seen so far (on the entire MSW), to take us literally into the ship yard. I like how the graceful sweep of the planks draws the viewers eyes towards the details around the mast step, and even though it's probably only a few inches in reality, it seems like a hundred feet. Without a sense of scale, you somehow manage to convey the massiveness of the timbers, the intricacies of the joinery, and moreover, the accuracy of your construction. Incredibly well done. You really should get that one printed and framed. Andy
  7. realworkingsailor
    That last photo, I think, qualifies as the most stunning of the build so far. Absolutely amazing! Andy
  8. realworkingsailor
    Looking forward to following along your next build... I see lot's of possibilities for your kitbashing/superdetailing abilities! Now as for a chair....... **Eyes Mark seated comfortably** Nah... I'll just grab my own.. Andy
  9. realworkingsailor
    Any time Glad I could come up with an understandable explanation Andy
  10. realworkingsailor
    (Refer back to BE's Picture) If the two gears that hold the thicker rope (at the top) are mechanically isolated from each other, the turning action of one does not get translated through the thick line to the other. This will create a twist in the thick rope, and also if you put any tension in the serving thread (the thin stuff) you'll stop the thick line from turning altogether. To counteract this, the gears need to turn at the same rate. This is where the bottom gears and shaft come in to play. By mechanically connecting both ends of the thick rope, they now turn at the same rate, eliminating the twist and allowing for an improved, tighter, serving. Andy
  11. realworkingsailor
    The whole point of the lower shaft is so that both parts holding the line being served turn at the same time. This prevents building a nasty unwanted twist in the line. Andy
  12. realworkingsailor
    Really great job, Augie! I wouldn't go fishing too much... who knows what the ravenous mob might do if you don't drop them a picture of progress now and again... Andy
  13. realworkingsailor
    Very nice, and congratulations! Andy
  14. realworkingsailor
    If you call that a mess.... then I must be doing something wrong..... Andy
  15. realworkingsailor
    Yup, at 109 years (built 1905), this old tug is still hard at work around the lakes.
  16. realworkingsailor
    Heh... FPSOs.... easy to spot.... Alright, here's an oldie:
  17. realworkingsailor
    Looking great, enjoy the sunshine and that beer I see peeking in the background! Andy
  18. realworkingsailor
    FPSO Asgard A
  19. realworkingsailor
    Ok...... we'll leave it to the dedicated SIB modellers.... they're all a little differently "tilted" anyway (no offence intended guys) Andy
  20. realworkingsailor
    It really looks fantastic... I still say you should try a fully framed Swan-in-a-bottle.. (Just for the sake of sheer badness ) Andy
  21. realworkingsailor
    Hi Joe, Your Grenado looks like a nice build. About your transom, it should have a slight curve to it. Check using the quarter deck piece, it should let you know if anything is amiss. Looking forward to watching your progress. Andy
  22. realworkingsailor
    Dry powders, like those need an overcoat to seal them, and they are specifically for weathering. The pigments tend to be coarser than that in mixed paint, and having experience with Tamiya powders and the like, it comes out clumpier. With paint, you have very fine control over the amount of colour applied. Dry brushing, as has been stated, is used for highlighting raised features, or in some cases making a 3D effect, not necessarily weathering. For example, on my Pegasus build, when it came to doing the photo etch friezes I first sprayed them yellow ochre, then dry brushed them white. Had I had my head a bit more about me at the time, I should have done the white highlights from the top, and used blue to dry brush from the bottom. This would have produced light/shadow effects over the flat surface. Andy
  23. realworkingsailor
    Riiiight... so you're next build is what? A fully framed Swan class sloop....... in a bottle? Andy
  24. realworkingsailor
    Hmm... I don't know.... your background doesn't look quite watery/rocky enough..... Oh... you mean the boat... Aside from the masts/flag staffs, looks like a dead on match to me! Andy
  25. realworkingsailor
    Sweet! Looks Excellent! Your workmanship is fantastic..... (never mind how big the scrap bin gets! ) Andy

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