mikegr
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Everything posted by mikegr
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Time... Obviously depends in what are you want to achieve. Here's is an answer from a time expert along with his work "Painting is essential for the 3D look. I highlight and shade them like I would with any figure at any scale, according to the light coming from above. This emphasises the 3D-look very much, and makes the figures appear more detailed and refined. Only drawback to these techniques: it is time-consuming. When working in series, I spend 1,5 to 2 minutes on the tickening of each figure, while painting takes about 5 minutes per figure. Together with preparation and installing, this makes about 10 minutes per figure. Not too bad, but it adds up quickly. Morris has 59 on her now, and I estimate the diorama will take about 1000 more... But hey, good results do take some effort, don't they?"
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Before presenting my future project i will make a short review of some completed last year USS San Diego by Matchbox. Rebuilt with some PE parts (AA guns ,rails and sme radar). Actually the whole model except hull sides need PE replacements but anyway Alongside is DD 537 USS The Sullivans, named by the 5 brothers killed when their ship, USS Juneau, was sunk by a Japanese submarine
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yes i built these at the age of 15-25. A couple of years ago i was browsing on ebay then bought a couple of kits. Now i have more than 100. But before start making these i decided to rebuild the old ones so i can practice with new materials and techniques (PE parts, rigging etc). I also doing scratchbuilt project which enchanced my skills a bit further.
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I am in the middle of process restoring about 30 pieces of 1/700 items built 25-30 years ago with brush and enamel paints. I decided to concentrate all logs on a single thread as some may not need heavy restoration and to save forum from opening too many threads, of mods agree.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I have almost finished the first Deck minus some details. I made the wooden deck by veneer. I cut It in planks 2cm x 1-1.2 mm wide by hand. Some were not cut accurately so had to be removed and replaced.
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I have never used surgical blades although I have some in storage. I switched from ordinary to those sold at model stores and was quite happy with the result. I have worked with several chinese PE parts, all high in detail but also very soft. Those hasegawa and fujimi I used recently were bit thick and crispy. Very easy to cut, I could even hear the sound while breaking. Very easy to work with.
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The reason PE parts bents during cutting is because the surface underneath is soft. These tiny parts should be put over a hard bottom. I use an old CD. The blades for this purpose should be of high quality. An extra budget for quality blades should be considered. Their shape should be like this in the picture and the cutting movement should be back and forth with constant pressure
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i agree too, however if someone was lived in Japan may have different opinion as there are brands for the domestic market and never exported.
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Do you know anything about this Wash & Cure option? It has a considerable price as an extra and I wonder if it worth the extra $.
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I am glad you have good results with anycubic. I am researching for a future buy and find them quite affordable https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers?page=1
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I had the Heller 1/180 one. It included the tool for making rope ladders. My mother dropped it accidentally. I only partially restored it.
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by the way here is what Flyhawk offer: A full PE kit but no wooden deck. The details in plastic though have gone to another level https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235097428-flyhawk-1700-hms-hood/
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- I Love Kit
- Hood
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sorry for not finding time of painting my basement walls. As "the master of wood said" : Life is too short and models to many to make. And sorry to thread starter for the off topic
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Reconstruction can be fun. I do the same although I take a break nowadays. I have many to choose from about 34 models, from tiny subs to fleet carriers.
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While finding real thin 1/700 chain is a challenge there is a way to make a decent one relatively easy. Just unstrip a cable and remove 3 pieces of the extra thin copper wire. Then knot them together as shown on pic, like making a girl's pigtail. The difference with a commercial chain is noticeable
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In EU this is a typical wide available product. https://www.nonpaints.com/en/colormatic-1k-epoxy-primer-in-aerosol In US you may need an alternative.
- 225 replies
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- I Love Kit
- Hood
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Not sure about availability in your area. Car painting products are all high quality. Also i use one ingredient car filler, P1000 Liquid. Superfine, great apply and easy to sand.
- 225 replies
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- I Love Kit
- Hood
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I use epoxy car primer. It comes in spray cans with adjustable flow. It covers all shinny metal surfaces and dries in 15-20 minutes.
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- I Love Kit
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I had to speed up my work cause of my 3 weeks leave. I finished the basics of the model while some finishing details will be added upon return. So after making the base using two sheets of 4mm plywood I coated it with wood primer and several layers of dark ocean blue. Then added the epoxy. As time was running out,after only 8 hours I coated the surface with medium gel giving the light waving effect. Note that the gel hasn't dried completely, therefore sea looks a bit wavy, white will turn into clear later.Next time I will try the more time consuming method of hairdryer(using hairdryer to make waves when resin starts to get solid). I make the wakes with acrylic putty and toothpick. Same for waterline plus mix of PVA+cotton. Will paint it over with white acrylic upon return to make a more visible effect.
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- O-class destroyer
- Tamiya
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The assembly is finished, managed to use 90% 0f PE parts some were too tiny to be used. I sprayed the kit with light grey. I will do shading, weathering, and rigging.Also will make a wooden base and a sea bed with epoxy.
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- O-class destroyer
- Tamiya
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