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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. mikegr
    You should see the unbuilt ones at my bunker...
  2. mikegr
    Reconstruction can be fun. I do the same although I take a break nowadays. I have many to choose from about 34 models, from tiny subs to fleet carriers.
  3. mikegr
    While finding real thin 1/700 chain is a challenge there is a way to make a decent one relatively easy. Just unstrip a cable and remove 3 pieces of the extra thin copper wire. Then knot them together as shown on pic, like making a girl's pigtail. The difference with a commercial chain is noticeable
  4. mikegr
    How you managed to twist the stairs of the PE ladders?
  5. mikegr
    In EU this is a typical wide available product. https://www.nonpaints.com/en/colormatic-1k-epoxy-primer-in-aerosol In US you may need an alternative.
  6. mikegr
    Not sure about availability in your area. Car painting products are all high quality. Also i use one ingredient car filler, P1000 Liquid. Superfine, great apply and easy to sand.
  7. mikegr
    I use epoxy car primer. It comes in spray cans with adjustable flow. It covers all shinny metal surfaces and dries in 15-20 minutes.
  8. mikegr
    Nice fast built
  9. mikegr
    I had to speed up my work cause of my 3 weeks leave. I finished the basics of the model while some finishing details will be added upon return. So after making the base using two sheets of 4mm plywood I coated it with wood primer and several layers of dark ocean blue. Then added the epoxy. As time was running out,after only 8 hours I coated the surface with medium gel giving the light waving effect. Note that the gel hasn't dried completely, therefore sea looks a bit wavy, white will turn into clear later.Next time I will try the more time consuming method of hairdryer(using hairdryer to make waves when resin starts to get solid). I make the wakes with acrylic putty and toothpick. Same for waterline plus mix of PVA+cotton. Will paint it over with white acrylic upon return to make a more visible effect.
  10. mikegr
    The assembly is finished, managed to use 90% 0f PE parts some were too tiny to be used. I sprayed the kit with light grey. I will do shading, weathering, and rigging.Also will make a wooden base and a sea bed with epoxy.
  11. mikegr
    Indeed PE parts are a must on this kit, will take it to another level of detail
  12. mikegr
    Ι have started using PE parts from stern to bow. Depth charge frames (some damage couldn't be avoided) rails, mast and guns.
  13. mikegr
    I have built many 1/700 kits 25 years ago. Now I rebuilt them one by one. The last built was Yamashiro.
  14. mikegr
    I made 2 20mm single guns with the shields. Another one was lost and the last one was over sprayed with primer and is beyond repair. Looks like I'm going to use 2 of those included in the kit. They will look like 40mm ones as they are bigger but i guess i can live with that😁
  15. mikegr
    a nice step by step action by a modeler which i consider quite advanced even using simple materials http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=8912&start=20
  16. mikegr
    Trumpeter's plastic is a bit average but for the price paid is quite acceptable. This and the growing variety of models puts the company in a good way.
  17. mikegr
    They are getting bigger. From 1/350 to 1/250 and lately 1/200
  18. mikegr
    Because barrels are cylinder shaped unlike PE parts which are flat. In 1/700 you can buy extra brass barrels for big caliper guns. Smaller caliber guns are sold as a whole, as an extra upgrade. The ones in the kit were a single piece with the gun house so i couldnt use them.
  19. mikegr
    I made the 4" guns. Each one is comprised of 4 pieces. The gun tower, the base, the canister and the barrel which is not included so I made some from 0.4 mm rod
  20. mikegr
    Nice I was looking for some details on that kit So basically it Trumpeter model with Pontos PE plus wooden deck. Sounds like a really good deal for 40€ including shipping.
  21. mikegr
    A straightforward assembly. One hour work including drilling of portholes. Time to look at PE parts starting from the cannons.
  22. mikegr
    Back to the small scale for a while. I bought this Tamiya kit for 9€. Like the German Z class kit of the same company it has two models. I'm going to built one including some PE from an ex eBay seller. Probably in light grey adding the seabed.
  23. mikegr
    So Bender is the most popular 3d design program?
  24. mikegr
    I built dozens of 1/700 ship models using paintbrush long time ago. In this scale airbrush is not a must , my thought. But if you enter the world of dioramas an airbrush is a great tool for creating different shades of the sea water, making your work looking very real. Now I am scratchbuilding large projects about 1 meter long using spray cans. Although I get the job done, for painting smaller parts airbrush is essential as it can regulate the amount of paint and prevent overflow. However its still a big machine with a considerable cost. So I am about to buy a starter kit with dual action airbrush to see how it goes before I opt for a big set of airbrush+compressor.
  25. mikegr
    Hello MCO has been over, at least for now. Some new material ordered as well as a few tools. Meanwhile I have been working on the superstructure level by level. The main silhouette is clearly shown now I will start gradually building details while correcting some imperfections. I am also experimenting with the deck color which varies from picture to picture of the real ship, depends the time those are taken as well as weather condition.

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