mikegr
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Everything posted by mikegr
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Most upgrade on PE comes from the crane set
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Model washed and stripped off partially
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I ordered some PE from Russia. They have a very detailed tracking system. First time I see an exporting item going through customs on departure country.
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i had to scratchbuilt some missing parts
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Reverse engineering. Start building the project...from the end.
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Next project Prince of Wales by Tamiya
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I will do so from now on. Each built will have a different make approach
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Most recent rebulit was Yamashiro by Aoshima. Really bad and inaccurate model. Note the turret after the funnel. It points this way because there is not enough space between funnel and aft tower. Also the upper deck unlike forecastle and rear deck is smooth, without panel lines. Ordering a wooden deck sticker would set me back several weeks so i just painted it gray. Al least i was satisfied with the sea bed even if i didnt use any special materials.
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Yes I make plexiglass cases for my models from now on. But the chloroform dilute is a top secret among professionals so I glue it with CA thus case looks whitish at joints. The enamel paint lasted great all these years but new PE pieces added and since I didnt remember the code I had to respray everything
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Next project was USS Independence CVL by Revell. The flyhawk kit of its time. Althouth there were some fitting issues, especially at the front, the overall details were exeptional plus it had several sprues of spare parts which i still use today sometimes.
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Time... Obviously depends in what are you want to achieve. Here's is an answer from a time expert along with his work "Painting is essential for the 3D look. I highlight and shade them like I would with any figure at any scale, according to the light coming from above. This emphasises the 3D-look very much, and makes the figures appear more detailed and refined. Only drawback to these techniques: it is time-consuming. When working in series, I spend 1,5 to 2 minutes on the tickening of each figure, while painting takes about 5 minutes per figure. Together with preparation and installing, this makes about 10 minutes per figure. Not too bad, but it adds up quickly. Morris has 59 on her now, and I estimate the diorama will take about 1000 more... But hey, good results do take some effort, don't they?"
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Before presenting my future project i will make a short review of some completed last year USS San Diego by Matchbox. Rebuilt with some PE parts (AA guns ,rails and sme radar). Actually the whole model except hull sides need PE replacements but anyway Alongside is DD 537 USS The Sullivans, named by the 5 brothers killed when their ship, USS Juneau, was sunk by a Japanese submarine
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yes i built these at the age of 15-25. A couple of years ago i was browsing on ebay then bought a couple of kits. Now i have more than 100. But before start making these i decided to rebuild the old ones so i can practice with new materials and techniques (PE parts, rigging etc). I also doing scratchbuilt project which enchanced my skills a bit further.
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I am in the middle of process restoring about 30 pieces of 1/700 items built 25-30 years ago with brush and enamel paints. I decided to concentrate all logs on a single thread as some may not need heavy restoration and to save forum from opening too many threads, of mods agree.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I have almost finished the first Deck minus some details. I made the wooden deck by veneer. I cut It in planks 2cm x 1-1.2 mm wide by hand. Some were not cut accurately so had to be removed and replaced.
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I have never used surgical blades although I have some in storage. I switched from ordinary to those sold at model stores and was quite happy with the result. I have worked with several chinese PE parts, all high in detail but also very soft. Those hasegawa and fujimi I used recently were bit thick and crispy. Very easy to cut, I could even hear the sound while breaking. Very easy to work with.
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The reason PE parts bents during cutting is because the surface underneath is soft. These tiny parts should be put over a hard bottom. I use an old CD. The blades for this purpose should be of high quality. An extra budget for quality blades should be considered. Their shape should be like this in the picture and the cutting movement should be back and forth with constant pressure
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i agree too, however if someone was lived in Japan may have different opinion as there are brands for the domestic market and never exported.
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Do you know anything about this Wash & Cure option? It has a considerable price as an extra and I wonder if it worth the extra $.
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I am glad you have good results with anycubic. I am researching for a future buy and find them quite affordable https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers?page=1
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I had the Heller 1/180 one. It included the tool for making rope ladders. My mother dropped it accidentally. I only partially restored it.
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by the way here is what Flyhawk offer: A full PE kit but no wooden deck. The details in plastic though have gone to another level https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235097428-flyhawk-1700-hms-hood/
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- I Love Kit
- Hood
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sorry for not finding time of painting my basement walls. As "the master of wood said" : Life is too short and models to many to make. And sorry to thread starter for the off topic
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