jaerschen

very nice work juergen,
 
are you going to plank the entire frames, or leave an outcut for to see the lovely framework ?
 
Nils

Juergen,
 
I like the fix a lot. Great job!  And no one but those of us that saw your photos will ever know!
 
Allan

Hi juergen
Great fix! Once you've planked over it nobody will know its there! Only us and we won't tell!!!
Cheers....mick

All is right in the world again Jürgen! 
 
 
Richard

Nice fix, Jürgen

Nicely done Juergen.

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

Update on captain`s gig.....
 
 
there is still quite a lot to do on this little boat, but its realy fun all the way
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
added a black liner at the sheer
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
here the floor grating and linings covering the connection links and the grating contours
These grating start breaking away, the moment one starts cutting slots etc.....
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
aft section sitting area and pillar support beneath the bench, plank floor here
 
 
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 

Thanks very much Mick, but I must also learning so much.
You have no reason to hide behind others. You are working on a high level.

hi all
been beavering away,inbetween getting the sloop finished, and have managed to get some more done on the cross section.
 
external planking above the whale completed in pyrenean boxwood , treenials in castello box.
 
internal bulwarks planking also done in satine bloodwood. treenails in pear. i was going to use pink ivory but the darn stuff has so much interlocked and wavy grain its bloomin difficult to thickness by hand , no matter how sharp the plane.
 
i think im trying to justify buying jims thickness sander!!!!
 
currently in the process of cutting some holly for the external planking below the whale.
 
bits built ready to be installed.
 
deck hatches built and gratings fitted.
 
any and all comments welcome!!!!!!!
 
p.s. the last photo shows what happens if you dont think ahead.having glued everthing together feeling quite pleased with myself it came time to trial fit the bits............doh!!!.......wheres the isopropanol!!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 100 – Rails and bulwark continued
 
Work continued this week on the topside rails, planking and channels.  The first picture shows the forward starboard upper channel being installed.
 

 
These are 6” thick.  Note that the main rail sections are missing in this photo – being only temporarily fitted at this stage.
 
In the next picture the mizzen and main lower channels have been installed.
 

 
Note that – unlike the uppers - these are “streamlined” at the ends.  I believe these lower channels spent a good deal of time in the water.  The main rail sections are positioned only in this picture.  The stack of planks on the deck are destined for the starboard side down to the wale. 
 
In the next picture the entranceway has been cut into the upper strakes.
 

 
The last section of topside planking is being glued in the next picture – held by pins and a couple of screw clamps.
 

 
The next picture shows the topside planking completed – except for treenails.
 

 
The toptimbers have been cut off flush.  The next picture shows the run of planking from almost directly forward.
 

 
Planking of the starboard side down to below the waterline is next on the agenda.  This will take some time with the narrow planks used on these ships.  The model will be inverted to make this work possible around the stern.  Planking on the port side will go just a few strakes below the lower channels – leaving the framing on that side open below that height.
 
Ed
 
 
  

The mounting of the guns on the gun deck, with breech lines and train tackle rings, has been completed.  
 

 

 
Time for a short holiday break and then we'll have some fun  ----  deck furniture !!
 
Here's wishing everyone the best of the holiday season as well as the upcoming change of season!  
 
 

A long overdue update, be it small is more than one way
 
The tiller hole was repositioned and the hoops were added
 
The pintles are browned, bolted & screwed to the rudder, (okay I simulated the screws.....)
 

 

 
Next up the Gudgeons, any ideas how long they need to be? TFFM only shows one, are #2 to #5 all the same length?
 
Remco

I do not understand why, but one side of the hawseholes were not similar to the other. I had wrong measured, that's absolutely certain for me because I have made one side some day's earlier than the other. Here's a pic there you can see the variety of height.
 

 
The level of the holes at the starboard side is correct. So I closed the holes at the portside and drilled new ones as the same level as of the starboard side.
 

Greg, initially I was not too sure about the dead flat finish but it is starting to grow on me.  The wale definitely needs more than just touching up.  It is painted with dull enamel so it should be reasonably easy to control application.  It will be good practice prior to attempting the friezes!
 
And yes, druxey, I am glad only one side is planked.  I never want to see another treenail again, at least until I get to the quarter deck.  But seriously, leaving one side exposed gives me two models.  The exposed side demonstrates just how crazy I am to fabricate all those parts and the planked side shows the beauty of her lines.  The other models that I have made this way are displayed in a case with a mirror on the back wall to show both styles.

I have proclaimed the lower hull planking finished!  In the end I applied three coats of sanding sealer and one coat of flat finish.  This was sanded to 1200 grit.  The finish coat adds luster without shine and is a harder finish than the sanding sealer.  The upper planking will be finished with Watco's to match the rest of the Costello after the channels, moldings, etc. have been installed.  I repainted the wale and put her back in the cradle.  
 

 

 

 

 

thanks for the likes and comments.
Framing in the Waist continues, 21 frames to go!
 
Ben

Thanks for looking in Michael and Jan .
 
Futtock Shrouds
 
Preparations for installing the Futtock Shrouds begins with making the Futtock Plates which hold the deadeyes. I made these from 0.7mm brass wire rolled around a 3.3mm drill bit, clamped up with needle nose pliers, and silver soldered at the bottom end. A 0.7mm hole was drilled into the lower end and the upper end was stretched back out so the deadeye could be inserted :
 

 
After blackening the plate was closed up around the deadeye :
 

 
4mm hooks were bent from 0.5mm wire, silver soldered and blackened. The futtock shroud was then seized to it :
 

 
The futtock plates go through the oval holes in the mast top and the shrouds are hooked to them :
 

 
The lower end of the shroud wraps around the futtock stave and is seized to the lower shroud :
 

 

 
  Danny

Hello, the next step is done and the Main Wale is fitted.
I had I little mistake nearing completion. The following photo should be a little help to declare it.

For fitting the last ledge of the Main Wale it was necessary to sanding the outside of the side counter timber at starboard side (blue arrow). But there wasn't enough material, the part was to small at this point (yellow x) . I had to many material removed at the inner side (red arrow).
The exchange of the part seems like too much effort to me. So I decided to glue a piece of wood to the counter and sanded it down. I believe that must be alright on the finished model.



 
And now some photos of the Main Wale. It's still to do a bit sanding on the port side.

 
 

I do not understand why, but one side of the hawseholes were not similar to the other. I had wrong measured, that's absolutely certain for me because I have made one side some day's earlier than the other. Here's a pic there you can see the variety of height.
 

 
The level of the holes at the starboard side is correct. So I closed the holes at the portside and drilled new ones as the same level as of the starboard side.
 

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Martin,
many thanks, I`m glad you like it
 
 
Omega,
thanks for your appreciation and also a merry Christmas to you
 
Michael,
thanks for your words , I also like the clinker build for those reasons. I would have liked to build a real wooden Dinghi for sailing and rowing, but then had a GRP hull daysailer instead for many years
 
Mark,
thank you very much, the Little Shell turned out to be 4 mm longer than planed, but luckily it still fits in at the foreseen place at the "Pegasus" waist area
 
Keith
I see with a smiile you realy have looked at the details......
the build-stem and transom surfaces are flat without any rabbet grooves, the planks are rather thin and do not allow much sanding after Fitting. The plank Ends are cut (beveled to the end sections, appr, 15 - 17 mm), the plank widths are tapered with a scalpel from mid length to both Ends with aid of a metal ruler.
The "rabett" at the stem is simulated by means of post adding a seperate stempost (also keel) after the planking is done. This can also be seen done a number larger, in the same technique for my "HMS Pegasus"  post # 23, build log part 12.
For the Long overlappings in remaining plank length there was no beveling done for the landings. Glueing was per CA application with toothpick at landings , stem and transom.
For the Illustration of the plank endings here is a Little Hand scetch
 
 
NIls
 
 
 

Thank you Richard I am glad you and others find my logs helpful,that is the main reason I post.I remember the days before the net and when Keith Julier's  books were in their infancy,you were very much on your own and it was a struggle.Now things are very different,everyone is free to share knowledge and it is fantastic.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I zoomed in the bottom photo.... looks great.  I thought the others were "in process" pics.  No dishonesty.  

I do not understand why, but one side of the hawseholes were not similar to the other. I had wrong measured, that's absolutely certain for me because I have made one side some day's earlier than the other. Here's a pic there you can see the variety of height.
 

 
The level of the holes at the starboard side is correct. So I closed the holes at the portside and drilled new ones as the same level as of the starboard side.